Tentatively Buying our First Motorhome ...

[jbefumo]

She now sits in my driveway. Considering it hadn't moved in 9 years, I am favorably impressed. Too frazzled to do anything more today.

Oh, generator meter says 56:21 (hours/minutes, I assume?)

[okcnewbie]

Originally Posted by jbefumo

....Oh, generator meter says 56:21 (hours/minutes, I assume?)

Unfortunately, extremely low hours on a gen is not really a good thing. The older gens were a little more bulletproof though. Great job on getting her home. Take one project on at a time and try and enjoy your new MH when possible. Congrats!

[bobwilcox]

It's a good looking MH. I think you got a good deal, if there is no or minimal rot.

I am on my 2nd rehab, a 95 Tiffin Bus diesel pusher. My first was a Toyota Dolphin, mid 80's. A guy gave the toyota to me, since he didn't think it would pass colorado emissions. It did pass, but the guys at the emissions test place were pointing and laughing as I sat in line. The mice were jumping out, and running across the lot. Ugly!!

One 'plus' to rehabbing a MH, you will learn the systems and operations better than anyone who just buys retail, and hires work done. Take notes. Keep us posted on the progress. Good Luck, and have fun!!

[FLynes]

Congrats on your new (to you) motorhome. Now the fun begins! As previous posters have written, replace all rubber parts, especially fuel hoses. While you're at it, drop the fuel tank and inspect the interior visually. If it's been sitting for six years without running, chances are the gas has started turning to varnish. If it's bad enough, Seafoam won't do a thing...you'll have to take the tank to a radiator shop and get it boiled out. Flush everything, power steering, engine, brakes, cooling system, etc...

When we bought our '76 Monaco, it had been sitting for three years...original owner passed away and his widow didn't use it....the tank was in incredible condition, zinc lining was still intact, but the fuel stank to high heaven...there were five gallons in the 50-gallon tank. After dumping the fuel, I reconditioned the exterior and reinstalled. I poured Starbrite (kind of like Seafoam, but I like it better) in the tank and filled it with fresh gas. I also installed an electric fuel pump, in addition to my mechanical fuel pump, with two filters...one before the electric pump and one before the mechanical pump. I will be replacing them often, because the Starbrite cleans tank and the dissolved solids will clog the filters.

The great thing about your rig is that you and your DW get to personalize it. We had our interior redone...new linoleum, new carpet, new valences, new day/night shades, new foam & upholstery, and the best part is that the man who did the interior was the guy who did the original interiors for Monaco in the '70's. He couldn't stop smiling, it was like one of his children came back home. So now, instead of Harvest Gold shag walls in the cabin and brown naugahyde on the bolsters of the furniture, we have tan microfiber, tan carpet and stone linoleum.

I also had the engine, transmission and driveshafts rebuilt, so our '76 is now new. I switched from 16.5" wheels to 16" (which I had powdercoated) and bought seven new 225/75R16 tires. All in all, I have around $20K invested, but this Class C will last us for years to come, and it's still way cheaper than the last Class C that Monaco made ($90K). You are way ahead of the game, considering what a new Winnebago costs, and frankly I think they were better built back in the day than they are now.

Good luck to you and don't forget to ask questions. There are a ton of people here who are super friendly and even more helpful....well, except for that one curmudgeon who shall remain nameless and blocked from my list....I like to imagine what the folks on this forum look like, and I'm pretty sure he looks like Statler from the Muppets.

[jbefumo]

SO glad I found this forum!

I really am looking forward to rolling up sleeves and doing some of the work. Just ordered K&N air & oil filters, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap. Have a good friend and excellent mechanic who will do as much as he is able given that it won't fit in his bay. Guy used to maintain our (fire company's) 1958 American LaFrance, so he's no stranger to BIG ...

Plan is to get him to check out the drivetrain thoroughly, then bring it to an RV place to have the rest gone over. Have one daughter 50 miles away and the second about 100 or so -- both with space to park it -- so plan on spending some time doing short trips to shake it down, get comfortable with it, and stay within range of getting it back to people who can rescue us if need be.

Overall, really impressed with the quality.

more to come ... (heh -- 2:56AM, and up surfing for info -- will be able to sleep eventually!)

[Brob]

Good to hear you made it home with the "new" rig! That means the engine, transmission, and brakes all do their job!
Keep us posted on the progress.

[jbefumo]

Given that this vehicle has been sitting for 9 years, I’m reserving judgement until I change plugs, wires, filters, fluids, set timing, etc. That said, it did strike me as a bit anemic during my brief (~12-mile) drive home (though it did improve somewhat toward the end).

I don’t expect it to perform like the big block in my old ’69 Chevelle, but I did more recently have a 1984 Ford F250 with the 460 engine, 4bbl carb, 4WD, 4-speed manual, and even pulling a trailer with 4 horses, the difference is pretty surprising. Weight of the trailer was ~ 6300#. 4 horses were around 6500# (one was a percheron). The truck itself (steel flatbed) was a tad under 6000#, so loaded weight was the same or greater. I can remember cruising up some long steep climbs in the Blue Ridge mountains and marveling that I didn’t even have to shift down to 3rd… Or am I comparing apples to soccer balls?

[FLynes]

Originally Posted by jbefumo

Given that this vehicle has been sitting for 9 years, I’m reserving judgement until I change plugs, wires, filters, fluids, set timing, etc. That said, it did strike me as a bit anemic during my brief (~12-mile) drive home (though it did improve somewhat toward the end).

I don’t expect it to perform like the big block in my old ’69 Chevelle, but I did more recently have a 1984 Ford F250 with the 460 engine, 4bbl carb, 4WD, 4-speed manual, and even pulling a trailer with 4 horses, the difference is pretty surprising. Weight of the trailer was ~ 6300#. 4 horses were around 6500# (one was a percheron). The truck itself (steel flatbed) was a tad under 6000#, so loaded weight was the same or greater. I can remember cruising up some long steep climbs in the Blue Ridge mountains and marveling that I didn’t even have to shift down to 3rd… Or am I comparing apples to soccer balls?

No, it's never going to feel like the L78 Thumper in your Chevelle....I had one too w/ the M22 Rock Crusher (unless you had the L89 aluminum head 396), but it should be somewhere on par with the 460. Try adding 8oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase and the rest in the fuel tank and drive it around to see what happens. If it has a carb (Quadrajet most likely), then rebuild it. Accelerator pumps tend to dry out with age and just sitting.

[jbefumo]

Originally Posted by FLynes

No, it's never going to feel like the L78 Thumper in your Chevelle....I had one too w/ the M22 Rock Crusher (unless you had the L89 aluminum head 396), but it should be somewhere on par with the 460. Try adding 8oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase and the rest in the fuel tank and drive it around to see what happens. If it has a carb (Quadrajet most likely), then rebuild it. Accelerator pumps tend to dry out with age and just sitting.

Thanks, that's what I was hoping to hear ... for now ... I've ALMOST got my wife convinced that we might CONSIDER large-oval aluminum heads, headers, and an appropriate intake manifold, carb, and cam ... down the road ... In the meantime, I know for certain that it needs shocks, and have always insisted on Konis for any vehicle for which they are available, but want to make sure the engine and other essentials are squared away before spending $600+ for the set (plus sway bars, which I'll do at the same time).

Yeah, I had a carb rebuild on my list of priorities. Just asked my mechanic to order the kit, along with belts, hoses, etc. (along with spares for each to keep on hand.) He suggested a trans filter change, but I won't make him do that in my driveway -- will take it to someone with a bay that can accommodate the beast, and have them install a shift kit while they're at it.

Haven't been this enthusiastic about WORKING on anything since my last sailboat!

[FLynes]

Kong’s are great on cars, like my Z06...go with Bilstein Heavy Duty shocks for this beast. I’ve read too many negative things about price outweighing performance with Koni shocks on motorhomes...I’m going with Bistein HDs up front and Gabriel Hi-Jackers on the rear of ours. To each his/her own, though. Do your own research, before you pull the trigger on the Koni’s. I’d hate to see you spend the cash and then be disappointed.

[jbefumo]

Originally Posted by FLynes

Kong’s are great on cars, like my Z06...go with Bilstein Heavy Duty shocks for this beast. I’ve read too many negative things about price outweighing performance with Koni shocks on motorhomes...I’m going with Bistein HDs up front and Gabriel Hi-Jackers on the rear of ours. To each his/her own, though. Do your own research, before you pull the trigger on the Koni’s. I’d hate to see you spend the cash and then be disappointed.

THANKS! I've been aware of Bilsteins for years, so will go that route on your advice - substantial difference. Have used Gabriels as well with good results.

[spritz]

Congrats on your new too you MH< she looks like a beauty.
We bought our 1982 Pace Arrow 8 years ago. 4500 bucks and had no problems we replaced the tires the following year. everything worked just under 300 hours on genie. Both ac's worked still haven't replaced and belts. We have spares belts hose's gas filters., filter We did have to replace the water heater 2 years ago and the Furnace blower motor.
I would start with new tires. I replaced the old shocks with Bilstein's and added air bags on 4 corners. Wish I would have replace with Konis but didn't have the $$$$
We have gone to AZ 3 times with toad and had a blast. Also neuromas 500 mile trips and a trip to Kentucky We did have a issue on the way home that worked its way out. we also bought a KarKaddy SS to tow our toad.
I would start out on a few short trips before the big one. Good luck and be patient.
JMO,
Tim

[yeloduster]

Originally Posted by jbefumo

Given that this vehicle has been sitting for 9 years, I’m reserving judgement until I change plugs, wires, filters, fluids, set timing, etc. That said, it did strike me as a bit anemic during my brief (~12-mile) drive home (though it did improve somewhat toward the end).

I don’t expect it to perform like the big block in my old ’69 Chevelle, but I did more recently have a 1984 Ford F250 with the 460 engine, 4bbl carb, 4WD, 4-speed manual, and even pulling a trailer with 4 horses, the difference is pretty surprising. Weight of the trailer was ~ 6300#. 4 horses were around 6500# (one was a percheron). The truck itself (steel flatbed) was a tad under 6000#, so loaded weight was the same or greater. I can remember cruising up some long steep climbs in the Blue Ridge mountains and marveling that I didn’t even have to shift down to 3rd… Or am I comparing apples to soccer balls?

Hi, I had a 1988 Bounder on the same chassis as your 'NEW' motorhome from 1997 to 2016. I am well aware of the performance issues that you mention. You are kinda comparing apple to soccer balls but not really! If that makes sense.

The Ford big block of that era was rated at 240 HP and the Chevy BB at 235. Pretty much apples and apples! Both pretty anemic compared to their cubic inch displacement. I am not familiar with the 460 of that era but the Chevy 454 truck engine in your motorhome has a VERY MILD camshaft. The valves barely open.

The biggest difference between your Ford and your motorhome was probably acceleration from stop. The Ford manual transmission had a 1st gear ratio of 3.03:1 and the TH475 (TH400) in your motorhome has a 1st gear ratio of 2.48:1. Both vehicles probably had rear gearing so that they engine turned about 3000 RPM at 60 in top gear.

I live in Colorado at about 7000 ft. The 235 factory horsepower erodes 28% at 7000 ft so it becomes 170 HP! So I set out to pep it up. Here is a list of things I did to improve performance:

• Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers with 2.5" dual exhaust and H pipe
  Home made cold air induction
  1.9:1 Harlan and Sharpes roller rocker arms
  Edlebrock Performer manifold
  Adjustable vacuum advance
  650 CFM Holly carb
  Gear Vendors Over/Underdrive

I would have liked to change the camshaft but cringed at the thought of pulling the radiator to accomplish it.

I did these things one at a time and each added to the performance. However there were unintended consequences for each change. With each increase in engine performance the engine ran cooler at cruise and hotter under full throttle climbing hills. A bigger radiator was in order but I never did that.

The headers were the first thing I did and they created an off idle stumble that I couldn't adjust out on the Q-Jet carb. Each subsequent change added to the stumble until the last change it was so bad that the throttle needed to be pumped three times to take off from a start. In addition, under full throttle going up Colorado mountain passes the engine would suck the carb float bowl dry and the engine would quit for a few seconds until the carb refilled. No matter how I tried I couldn't get the Q-Jet to perform. I scored a 650 CFM Holly vacuum secondary carb and with some significant mods had it running so smoothly you would swear that it was fuel injected. Fuel economy improved a slight amount as well getting about 7 MPG at 60 MPH towing a 4000 lb toad.

What made the most difference was the Gear Vendors. It turned my 3 speed TH475 into a 6 speed with overdrive. Splitting gears kept the engine RPM closer to its sweet spot and probably added an effective 50 HP where it was needed.

I am a long time gear head and had the knowledge and skills to do all this work myself. Working on this chassis is difficult. So many of the issues have bolts that are too far down to reach from the top and too far up to reach from the bottom. In other words a pain in the a....! It might be unfair to ask a friend to do this work and it is probably not cost justified to pay to have it done! The Gear Vendors being the exception. The Gear Vendors is a relatively straight forward addition adds performance that really matters!

If all you do is drive to your kids houses then getting it running well in stock form may be all you want to do. However, if you eventually decide to tour, especially with a toad, more performance may be in order.

Have fun! That is what the RV experience is all about. I love the adventure and I loved improving the performance of my old motorhome. I didn't even mention the steering/suspension mods I made!

[jbefumo]

Much time, little progress ….

Well, was hoping to be vacationing in warmer climes in my RV by now, but I guess that wasn’t realistic, was it?

So, picking up where I left off, this 1985/86 (chassis is an ’85 GM P6) had been sitting since 2002, so … 15 years anyway.

Started it up and drove it 23 miles or so to my home. Now, I live on top of a mountain, with deep, steep gorges whichever way you approach. At the time of my retrieving the motorhome, a bridge was being replaced at the bottom of the one between starting point and destination.

One lane open.

Flag men, stop lights.

My wife is driving our car right in front of me.

The Winnebago makes it all the way, through some other steep passages, stops at the bottom of that hill for the traffic coming the other way, up the other side, and into my driveway.

COOL!

The next morning I decide to move it over a foot or so to make more room for our cars.

Starts right up.

Brake pedal right down to the floor.

CRIPES!

Well, fast forward over the past several months…

I just got the wheel back on the brakes bled, and took it around the corner.
Took me a good week just to figure out where the master cylinder (shot) is, and how to get to it.

Then the snows came, and I was beginning to dread that it was going to be sitting there on a jack stand until spring.

On the bright side, have had lots of time to go over the rest of it, and other than the known problems (fridge and one roof A/C), everything is consistent with a <25k one-owner vehicle. Undersides are in surprisingly nice condition. Brake lines all look good. No substantial corrosion.

Next going to get the propane system checked out and hopefully the furnace will facilitate some general interior sprucing up during the winter.

I just consider it a very good omen that the brakes didn't fail 10 minutes sooner!