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Old 10-23-2008, 02:53 PM   #57
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Looks like a engine battery for the engine and a deep cycle marine battery for the coach. That was like mine but i changed a few things to make more room for bigger and more powerful battery's. I saw a disconnect there but was having a hard time trying to see what battery the disconnect was hooked to. I would think it was for the engine battery but couldn't really tell! You may have hit that switch and that is why the coach won't start. That wiring looks like a rats nest. Needs to have that cleaned up as it could start a fire like the way it is right now!! I saw in that one picture what looked like wires disconnected or cut off..not really great to see that, as not knowing what or which battery to hook up to. Need to trace the wires out and make sure it isn't needed or if needed to hook it up! That could be the reason why the coach won't start!!
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Old 10-23-2008, 03:17 PM   #58
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THe disconnected wire is going to the marine battery.. We used that switch and turned it off. SO we know that one goes to the coach..(no lights in there after that)
Uggggg this is not what I wanted to see ESPECIALLY after driving it like this.

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Old 10-23-2008, 05:21 PM   #59
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Looks like you have a single 24 series battery for the engine and a single 27 series deep cycle battery for the coach. That was like mine but no more. I have a single 24 for the engine and i put it to up in front of the engine near the heater stuff. They are on one side of the sheet metal and the engine battery is on the other with a new battery box. The old battery box was cleaned up and painted with an epoxy for battery boxes and then I took out the top and made a new top so i could put two coach battery's in there. I have two 29/31 series from Wally World but you could get whatever brand you would want. I don't have disconnects as i live in mine full time but some think I should anyway in case of emergency but if i am ever in this buggy with an accident I couldn't get to the battery disconnects in time anyway so i will let the next guy do that!!
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Old 10-23-2008, 06:21 PM   #60
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What you have will work fine. It just needs some TLC and clean up. Get some corrosion preventative grease or felt pads on the terminals.

Next, tie down the batteries. Vibration will kill a battery in short order. You can use eye bolts and web cargo straps or even dog collars to secure them.

Get some plastic ties and secure the loose wiring and tape up any exposed connections.

Good luck,

Ken
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Old 10-24-2008, 02:21 AM   #61
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I will post the pics of my set-up as promised.
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Old 10-24-2008, 03:24 AM   #62
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Walkerbunch:
:snip: Plus we do need to figure out how to straighten the door a lil. You can see daylight at the top. So we stuffed stuff up there before the rain last night and it seems to have helped with lessening the puddle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

My door had a bit of an issue at the top as well. After trying to find enough weatherstripping last winter to fill the gap, I finally decided that it would be a simple idea just to bend the door into place. (mine is aluminum framed after all) So, I held it in place and bent the offending section back to where it needed to be. Much better now. Odds are your frame is aluminum as well and would handle the same abuse(as it was in this shape originally it should go back into place without breaking, right?) Just do this carefully and as gently as possible. And if you decide to use something as the pivot point(like in a see-saw) be sure it's large and rounded, so you don't create a intense area of pressure. In other words, don't use something like this "&gt;" but more like this")". Hopefully that makes at least a bit of sense.

Best of luck

Edit: Take that propane tank off and get it to your local propane dealer to have new fittings and seals put into place. I took mine to Amerigas and it cost me all of $45 for a new filler(seal was leaking) and bleeder valve (leaking as well). Make sure it is empty and then it would be a great idea to get it cleaned off and re-painted. I did mine myself, but have access to air powered sanders and a sandblaster. And I knew my tank was empty. If you don't know for sure how to deal with this, please read up, and if you still don't feel safe, pay someone else to take care of it for you. No re-certification is needed as it is exempt, so if you have a nice clean painted tank with new seals, no filler will turn you down. Show up with that rusty looking tank and they've the right to refuse to fill it.
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Old 10-24-2008, 06:55 AM   #63
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Right now I am making the list of to do's lo. Its getting longer with each passing day. THat propane tank does need to be dealt with..But of course its NOT empty. We have never used it, but the PO added propane to it.....But after re reading through all the emails, they seemed to add up to the fact they may not have used the stove etc. SO now I'm over here going hmmm..How am I to empty this. The batteries hopefully this weekend(its supposed to warm up) I can get out there and clean up the mess. And see where wires are going to and from. That one that's disconnected goes to the back somewhere. All the ones going to that relay thing seem to all be attached..Just some look like poo. So hopefully some electrical tape will do for now. I just don't want those sections exposed. I was reading on other forums about why that battery would go dead. And some seem to make sense, and I will have to ck it out, but Scott(hubby) thinks we prolly killed it when we ran outta gas. We were pretty hard on it. And it worked fine till then. SO looks as if we need to replace that battery. Right now money is scarce and hopefully we can do as much as possible on our own.(with lots of tips from you all hehe) But hey once its done, it will be something to be proud of right?! So I think this weekend I will do some kind of work on it. Ok off to clean up the milk mess my lovely ankle biters left me on the table.
Christina
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Old 10-24-2008, 04:11 PM   #64
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hmmmm can someone come help me find my electrical tape lolol. ARRRRGGGGGG. I would lose my head if it was not attached!!!!
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Old 10-24-2008, 08:08 PM   #65
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I don't know of a safe way to remove teh propane other than paying the nearest propane place to maybe pump it out. I wouldn't but thats me.. What do you see thats wrong???
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Old 10-25-2008, 06:11 AM   #66
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Well I do know we need to replace those original valves and stuff, but that will wait lol. I spent so long looking for electircal tape yesterday..And never did find it lol. But its supposed to be warmer today so we are going out and redoing the tape, and I told hubby I think I might be ripping that panel off the passenger side, just to see whats behind there and what I can do to fix it..
We are gonna pull the battery out of our truck and put it in the beast to get her started and moving. Whatever it takes right lol.
WHATS BEHIND PANEL #1 hehehehehe

Everything is original. So We know somethings are going to have to be replaced just because it is now considered unsafe. That propane tank will just have to wait. Other things have to get done first lolol.
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Old 10-25-2008, 10:31 AM   #67
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The only thing i had to do was clean up the tank and repaint. If you use a little dish soap and water in a window cleaner bottle and spray the valves and turn it on and off while you have the soapy water on it you will know if the tank is leaking or if its safe. As for the appliances, Try out the heater and stove burners and the oven too! Before I would start anything up i would wait after i turned on the gas and see if you smell any gas. kinda has that rotten eggs smell to it. If you don't have any smell to the home try and start up the water heater. If that works ok try the stove. Now on the oven there is two offs on the oven! one is the normal off and then there is a pilot light off! If you smell any gas at the oven check that it was shut all the way off. If it was then turn it on and light the pilot and see if the oven works. If that is good try and lift up the burner tray on top of the stove. I say that as most of them that old didn't have a pilot for the burners. But lift the top to check this. If no pilot then shut the top back on the burners and turn on one at a time and using a lighter light them one at a time. If this works good shut them off and try the furnace.There should be a on/off switch on it and the furnace may have a pilot light or it may be direct spark model.after you turn the switch on check if you have a control for the gas and turn it on. Now turn the thermostat up and see if the fan comes on and then if the furnace works. There may be a set of instructions on that furnace, if so follow it! After that it only has one other item to check out. The fridge will run on 12 volt and LP gas. If it is a newer fridge you would have a control panel on the unit up front above the fridge door. If it is the non auto type then the controls are down at the bottom with the door open. Should be a set of instructions for it to tell you the way to make it work. Confused??? So was i the first time. If you run into any issues just turn off the gas, take a picture and post here and we will try and see if we can help you! later, Dan
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Old 10-25-2008, 01:05 PM   #68
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Ok today has been somewhat productive. Took the battery in, had it tested, it was bad(DUH lol) after 2 trips up there and haggling with them(this battery was under warranty) they did finally relace it no charge..So THE BEAST HAS BEEN STARTED! WHOO HOOOO! lol.. Ok other than that, we blew out the lines, taped up the wires(yes I FINALLY found my electrical tape) Pulled the awning out and hosed it off. Letting it dry in the sun. We are going to the store Monday to get the fuel stabilizer, antifreeze and antifreeze for tanks.
I do believe we are leaking propane. Its turned off right now but you can still smell it. Not really strong but the smell is there. I started taking the inside panel off the "door lol" and stopped(got side tracked haha) Easily done I tell ya! I am actually afraid of the mess behind it. Im not replacing anything behind it till we reseal windows. Don't wanna ruin something I just replaced. On top of the Beast we also had to get the outside cleaned up ready for winter. But today its NICE outside. After 2 days freezin the tush it is now no jacket at all weather lol. Taking a break, then I think Im gonna head back out into the beast to see what else I can tear up
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Old 10-25-2008, 02:39 PM   #69
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CHECK THE OVEN VALVE AS IT MAY BE IN PILOT LIGHT MODE AND IF THE PILOT LIGHT IS OUT IT WILL MAKE THAT SMELL!!!!! SUPER IMPORTANT!!!! ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS MAKE SURE THE OVEN PILOT LIGHT IS OUT AND TEH VALVE IS TURNED ALL THE WAY OFF!!!!!!
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Old 10-25-2008, 02:44 PM   #70
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Sorry to kinda yell, but you don't want to have a campfire in the home!!!! Sometimes they forget to turn off the oven pilot light. and they leave the gas off but if it is a leaky valve then that would make it leak at the oven pilot light!!! The oven handle has too off positions, oven off and Pilot off!!! You need to make sure it is in Pilot off!!!! We do not want you to be the next ones to make a trip to the moon!!!!
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