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Old 12-28-2010, 09:33 PM   #1
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This Lady has Fridge Emergency!!

Hi, I'm in the majestic Redwoods miles from town and have had to reset my breakers a couple of times. (If you've seen the news, No. CA is in the midst of a storm!)

So, here I am, in the storm of storms and my fridge isn't working. All else is in proper order. I'll deal with the leaks and other issues later: The fridge is a must and ASAP.

I'm in a fully resorted/functioning 1973 Winnie Brave/Dodge 440.

Q: Is there any other area I need to address to get my fridge back on? It's in electric mode and as of yet, I've not used the propane for energy. I'd rather not try at this point in the weather, but if it's not back on in the next few hours, I'll be gaining some weight, because I refuse for all this good food to go to waste!

All advice is appreciated -I'll keep this page open for responses until this failure is fixed.



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Old 12-28-2010, 09:50 PM   #2
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With the storms there could be some power problems. Low voltage will cause the current to rise and the breaker to trip. If you have propane why not switch over to see if it works okay on the propane.

Turning off all other appliances and lights on that circuit may help. The bad is that it could be in the controller board and that will be a dealer order (or parts from someplace)

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Old 12-28-2010, 09:52 PM   #3
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I'm wondering if there's wind driven rain leaking in causing a short?
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:54 PM   #4
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What is your hesitation on allowing the unit to operate on Propane? You do not have to go outside or do anything other than switch the unit over or allow it to automatically select Propane when it does not sense electricity.
It will hardly use a measurable amount of Propane in a week... just a small pilot type flame which will be intermittent... to heat (pressurize) the amonia refrigerant. Very very efficient.
Hopefully, you are level... that is a requirement.
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:33 PM   #5
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How is your 12vdc power source to your refrigerator circuit board? If it drops below 12v it could cause a problem.
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:10 PM   #6
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Hi Jim, thanks for your great email. I know that I'm not level and am squeezed in between 2 redwoods. I've never lit the propane option. I have the furnace and the stove on propane now. I'll read the manual. The box is outside and I'm not afraid of getting wet -so I can access the panels outside.

It seems that when the breaker trips, it's only 1 breaker that goes off -it's strange and i think that is another issue. in the meantime, I'm game for any option -
What happens if I'm not level. I'm a 24' -no self leveler -just a couple of manual levels I have onboard and in my toolbox. I will in fact check this to see how far off I am. I have some boards on board.

If you're still up and can offer any other help, I'm happy to listen.
Thanks again!

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Old 12-28-2010, 11:13 PM   #7
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Thanks for your post. I'm running electric. I am getting some surges -but only tripped the breaker once. It seems the power fails when I'm running too much power to only 1 breaker though.
I'm not level and have not used propane. I'll grab the manual for directions for lighting. I just can't lose this food :(
Thanks again for your post.
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:20 PM   #8
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Well everyone, seems I have to level out. I'm going to have a time as I'm wedged pretty good. You'd be proud this lady can parallel park a 24' Brave!
Wish me luck! I'll post back with results. I only have blocks to use to level and some small plastic levels in my toolbox -I'll make it work!
Here goes. . . .
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:15 AM   #9
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tried to level. no room. does anyone have a 73? If so, instructions say to remove front fridge panel, etc. well, in order to remove the panel -not per easy instructions, it appears I have to remove 4 screws. that does not bode to instructions. if i need, i will, but will wait until daylight. nothing outside other than back of unit.
getting a bit frustrated -it's really nasty out!
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:39 PM   #10
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Things are starting to cool down.

I want to thank you all for your advice. It worked. The RV needed 2 4x4's to level.

The storm has passed and things are well and remain beautiful.

Thanks again and happy trails to you!

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Old 12-29-2010, 06:30 PM   #11
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Good to hear you have the fridge running now.
If you have the original fridge (don't laugh I do have the original Dometic) you might not get it to light on gas (propane) from the inside. They used a flint sparker that probably does't work anymore.
If you want instructions to light it on gas just let me know. Les
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Old 12-29-2010, 06:52 PM   #12
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And guys, FWIW, the gal stated her's is a:

I'm in a fully resorted/functioning 1973 Winnie Brave/Dodge 440.
And believe me, those years did NOT have automatic power switching AC/Propane - and even the electronics parts were minimal by today's standards...

Gotta keep the "help" appropriate to the problem...

And to the OP - gotta be careful to keep the RV as level as resonably possible - the refrigerator is easily damaged if run in an unlevel position.
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Old 12-29-2010, 07:20 PM   #13
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Original frigs from era, had a manual pilot light and ZERO electronics. You set it for gas or electric if it had electric.

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Old 12-30-2010, 12:25 PM   #14
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Thanks Ken. it is the original Domestic. And there is no electronics to speak of. Your information was helpful as I thought I was missing something in this thread as I searched my manual for a clue to this issue. The manual is the original and although it does address many of my own model, it has other model info in it.

A closing note on this thread would be that this RV is solid. I have had little issues that need to be worked out -yet I'm still happily rolling. Keeping it maintained will be a process and being a project driving woman who uses her hands well (tools not decorations to be admired), I am confident to a fault that there is not much I can't do. The real issues arise when it comes to muscle. I've busted knuckles, but will face issues I can't do alone with this great forum and those who support my efforts to remain independent and rolling!

Thanks again!

PS: I will likely be under the carriage before departing this location because as I drove up the mountain, I hit a bump and starting hearing a knocking in the rear of the carriage. I'm going to look at my "U" joints because I think the drive train may have been compromised. I started it up to level it and when I did that knock was in fact still there.
Wish me luck -I don't have the resources to pay a mechanic and this would be the muscle I don't possess.
In 1981 I had a 75 F250 4x4 short-bed w/ 36' tires on 8' block/pin risers. I lost the train while traveling a city road. Pulled over and had to change the U joints with my boyfriend. Because I've done it does not mean I want to do it again!!
Look for a new thread if this comes apart :(

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