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Old 09-18-2016, 01:47 PM   #15
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When you start the motor home first thing in the morning does the fan run for 30 seconds to a minute and then shut down or does it keep on running? Normal operation is to run for a minute or so then shut down until the heat builds up to turn it back on. As far as sealing off the front end, it needs to be completely sealed off so the air coming in has nowhere to go except through the radiator. When I had my radiator recored the rebuilder commented that the radiator looked like a car radiator sized up to fit the motor home. It was 4 row and still is but it had 3/8" tubes on it and he sized them up the 5/8".
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Old 09-19-2016, 01:21 AM   #16
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Yes, my radiator is a 4 row core with the large tubes. Cost was just under $700. The air can only go thru the radiator as I sealed the gaps with rubber or metal tape, which I maintain.
The fan clutches here in Az normally don't come on in the summer when first started as they do in cooler climates and in the winter here. I installed an aftermarket temp gauge and this is how I found out the fan clutch and the thermostat were both doing their job at 195 degrees. I called the manufacturer of the fan clutch and ask him why he had them set to come on at 195 degrees when every vehicle I could think of now has a 195 degree thermostat so they were fighting each other and the fan was on all the time. He said he never considered that and ask what I thought it should be and I told him 200 degrees like most vehicles with electric fans have them come on. Don't know if he ever changed it or not but I changed my thermostat to a 180 degree and the combination works well.
I am considering moving the a/c condenser and adding another condenser with an electric fan.
I'll investigate the new pick up trucks with the electric fans as these are probably used for towing also. I think a pick up driven around town with no load would not be much of a test of the fans, unlike a 15,000 pound motor home with a 454 turning 3,000 rpm going up a grade.
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Old 09-19-2016, 06:48 AM   #17
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Mine currently comes on even at 180*. I did power wash the front a/c coil this summer. That helped mine from coming on at 181*. Mine for the last couple of years has been coming on at 181* and going off at 179*. Once the outside temps hit 80* my fan stays on but I'm always at 180* give or take a degree or 2. What I think is happening is a dead spot has occurred in the middle causing more heat to hit the clutch thus turning on the fan. I have (2) 12" fans in front of all this with override switches but that has never helped. Of course I have an oil cooler and a external transmission cooler in front of all of this so there is quite a bit of heat being pulled through the radiator. Next season I am going to try building air dams to direct more air to the center of the radiator to see if my theory may be right.
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:46 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by BA-in-Mich View Post
Mine currently comes on even at 180*. I did power wash the front a/c coil this summer. That helped mine from coming on at 181*. Mine for the last couple of years has been coming on at 181* and going off at 179*. Once the outside temps hit 80* my fan stays on but I'm always at 180* give or take a degree or 2. What I think is happening is a dead spot has occurred in the middle causing more heat to hit the clutch thus turning on the fan. I have (2) 12" fans in front of all this with override switches but that has never helped. Of course I have an oil cooler and a external transmission cooler in front of all of this so there is quite a bit of heat being pulled through the radiator. Next season I am going to try building air dams to direct more air to the center of the radiator to see if my theory may be right.
A couple of points, and I am not picking on you.

1) You should not power wash a radiator. The pressure of the water will bend the fines.

2) When flushing a radiator you should wash from the rear to the front.

3) I do not know if you have a cross flow radiator (GM 454, would lead me to believe that you do) but if you do and have a dead spot in the center, even a couple of rows would mean you have lost a substantial amount of cooling from the radiator.

4) A dead spot is a sign of things to come, now is the time to replace the radiator.

5) If you have a dead spot you can check easily, once the vehicle is hot place you hand carefully on the fines or use a heat gun. A dead spot can be found by looking for a row of fines that are much cooler than the rest of the radiator.

6) Your signature says you have recurved your distributor. I assume you advanced the timing to produce more power. Advancing your ignition timing increases cylinder temperatures and heat to the cooling system.

7) You are really looking for torque in a Motor Home engine, not HP, Hp equals upper end speed, torque equals twisting power, or power to get the motor home moving from a stop.

8) One thing you could do is reduce the thickness of the stack of heat exchanges you have at the front of your vehicle. You can purchase or make yourself stand alone oil and transmission coolers. This will greatly increase the amount of cooling the radiator can do by reducing the amount of heat passing through the fines. These stand alone coolers have their own thermostat set to the ideal temperature for the oils passing through them. You could use your existing coolers by removing them from the stack and mounting them separately under your motor home and adding a temperature sensor and electric fan.



Note the fan says oil cooler on it. The ideal temperature of your transmission and engine oil is different from the temperature you want your coolant at.

If you need any help with any of these thoughts I would be happy to help you out.

Glenn.
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Old 09-19-2016, 08:27 AM   #19
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Did none of these older P30's cool properly from off the assembly line or is it all build up in the cooling system?
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Old 09-19-2016, 08:42 AM   #20
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I converted my Toyota Tacoma to Electric using a Crown Vic Police interceptor Fan and has not let me down. Thinking is nothing get more abuse than police cars and if those fans can handle it.

So here are some that may fit your application.
Dual Chevy Electric Police Car
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Old 09-19-2016, 01:20 PM   #21
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Glenn, I power washed it with a 1100 psi washer using a fan spray. The radiator was recored about 6 years ago. I pulled the distributor and had had it rebuilt with different springs put on and tested. It tested out to 42 degrees max advance. After doing so the engine ran cooler and stronger. The base timing is at 12* BTC. There is no pinging even pulling a 5000 lb trailer uphill. After I " gently " power washed the coils of the a/c condenser my problem was reduced. Considering my unit is 26 years old I am assuming the condenser coils are pretty plugged. It is going to be a all day job to pull the conglomeration of stuff from in front of the coil to properly clean everything. That's a next spring project.
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Old 09-21-2016, 07:13 PM   #22
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I have an elk hunt opening on October 14 so probably not much is going to be done to the motor home until after it is over. This will give me time to think about what might be the most benefit for the minimum amount of work. I'm leaning towards the a/c condensors being moved and installing separate electric fans for them.
I might go to a couple of new truck dealers to look over the puck ups with only electric fans.
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