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Old 09-26-2014, 07:53 PM   #183
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Wow, great info HuntingHawk, thanks . I have to build the battery box, it will hold four bat. totol. So I can build this anyway that I have to, I have built battery trays on class 8 trucks that were sliders so easy to maintain. Now I need to find a space to put all the electrical panels ect. does the inverter need to have air for cooling? IamJerryP thanks!! I now have everything to put the roofing material down, Gordon my supplier only has the "good" stuff, his words, the same as your install. I was going to reuse the termination bars off the old trailer, but after cleaning and straightening I didn't like the looks of them, so we are getting new. Sundays the day!
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Old 09-26-2014, 08:14 PM   #184
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Location of the invertor is a spinoff. They have an internal sensor & fan for cooling. But the electronics don't do well with high humidity. If lights, fans, etc are 12VDC you don't need the invertor full time. So its nice to have it inside just to be able to turn it on or off & monitor it. Even if you aren't running anything 120VAC & the invertor is on its draining the batteries.

My thinking is run the generator for stuff during the day & save the batteries for use in the evening.
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Old 09-26-2014, 08:23 PM   #185
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Slide out tray for the batteries is definitely the way to go.

Roe is not to drop batteries below 50% as it kills their life span. So if you have four 125AH deep cycle batteries in parallel you would actually have maximum 250AH power available.

Lets say you intend to power a 120VAC frig at night & it draws 5amps. That would be 50amps from the batteries. By the numbers, that would be 5 hours worth of battery power. But fact is the frig is going to run less then half the time. Confused yet?
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Old 09-26-2014, 08:25 PM   #186
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cant wait to see it,,...no more tarps.....lol.
you have a great build going on...,,at this time of year ,,the race to beat of the nasty weathers coming,,ours usually get alot cooler and wet the 2nd weekend in october..yous i know hits much sooner..i dont mind working in cold wet weather but i would rather not....lol at least the mzajor stuff,,you got it made now,,once you get the roofing on,,,u can stay dry and warm for the interior....
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:05 AM   #187
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HuntingHawk, I'm taking notes! I think building the shell, roof was easy, doing the right system for all the electronics is going to be a challange. I'm pretty handy, I've been lucky thru my life to have good friends that I have been able to work with and learn from, and I never sat around, I was always trying something new, that being said I "think" with the good help of all of you on this site, this thing can come together!! Bap, the weather last couple weeks have been unusually warm and dry, I keep waiting for the other boot to fall, it probably will change very suddenly and sharply. But right now I'll take it!!
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:24 AM   #188
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yep loooks like i have untill next thu. dwn here before the change looking at our extended forecast..

HUNTINGHAWK,,,,,haxs a wealth of knowledge on his electrical ,,,,,im taking notes over here aswell....even though this is your thread i want to thank him for confusing the crap out of me......lol... im learning alot ...
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:39 AM   #189
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Hi Terry;
When I cut the holes in the EPDM I cut about 3 inches inside the edge of the hole. I then cut a 45 to the corner, folded the EPDM down and tacked it to the framing. If any water runs under the AC or vent it will have less of a chance to get into the roof. I hope if any water gets in it will drip through and alert me so I can do some remedial.

It appears my water got in through the AC. The manufacturer cut the holes after they put the EPDM on it and any water that got in was able to get into the sheeting.

I was worried about stepping on one of the cutouts once the EPDM on so I just placed a small piece of wood on the EPDM over the hole to warn me not to step there.

I used a strip of butyl tape on the siding underneath the EPDM to seal the EPDM to the siding. I used another strip underneath the termination bar.

I was able to save the termination bars (rain gutter style) as they were solid extruded aluminum. Lots of goo on them but DW was able to clean them up with several hours of work. Used stainless screws for the termination bars.
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Old 09-27-2014, 10:19 AM   #190
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Good Morning Gordon, The term bars on this unit of course were 41 yrs old and they were bent in the old configuration of the sides, I was able to straighten them, and did clean them up but they just didn't look like they belonged on the new siding, plus the bars on this one was also awning which would have put the awning up too high, IMO. Good idea with the vent holes ect. anything you can do to eliminate / warn of a leak is good. Bap, if the weatherman down there is anything like up here they "lie" to us all the time, its going to be sunny and darn that cloud just snuck up and rained all over, LOL.
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:09 PM   #191
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Terry - good luck with the EPDM. Luck will only be a small part as I know you will have it go well for you.

We are heading out tomorrow for the south so it will be a few days until I am able to see the finished roof photos. I am looking forward to seeing them.
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Old 09-27-2014, 01:29 PM   #192
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Have a safe trip Gordon!!, and when you see it next hopefully it'll be sealed up
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Old 09-27-2014, 02:32 PM   #193
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One more thing on the solar. Make sure to read the instruction of the controller. I'm pretty sure the Battery cable MUST be attached before the cables from the solar panels. Not attached in the proper sequence can destroy the controller. The controller needs a voltage reference which comes from the battery voltage. From that the controller determines what voltage system(12VDC). And don't initially attach 100% charged batteries as then the controller will appear not to be working. Run the batteries down to 12.3-12.5volts. Use 12VDC fan or whatever to drain the batteries some if needed. You can have the inverter hooked up but don't have it turned on yet.
When you install the solar panels on the roof use tape the cardboard or Styrofoam over them. If you don't you will be working with live wires. Don't remove the covers till connected to the controller. Ask me how I know to do this.

When laying out the solar system use a sting or rope stretched from the solar panels to the batteries, not just to the controller. Then measure the length of the cord. In determining wire gauge from panels you need estimated amperage & length. Specifications for solar panels will give two amperages. One is no load which is not the one you want to pay attention to.

Not sure what else I forget to mention.
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:19 PM   #194
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HuntingHawk, I'll bet that was a shocking experience! Looking today just roughly, I should be able to put an electrical panel within 3 to 4 ft of the batteries, right behind where the 5th wheel goes up from the main floor. The screws and seams in the roof are filled and sanded, I have crawled from one end to the other filling and sanding, whew! Had the bikes out today, but didn't get to ride, here is one reason why I need a Toy Hauler.
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:50 PM   #195
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For any holes in skin, either roof or sides, I will be using the ice & water shield for roof or the sealer for windows and doors. The stuff that has sticky on one side, where you peel off the covering for the sticky and then smooth out the weather strip and it keeps water from penetrating if there is a leak. So even if over time you get a leak at a window or maybe the air conditioner on roof, the water will not get to structure in roof or walls. I am going to use on all the windows that I take out and reseal this winter. Still using butyl tape on the windows after this sealing stuff.

Great work on this trailer, and all the other projects under way here. Happy trails.

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Old 09-27-2014, 08:24 PM   #196
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Terry, at about 17VDC & 20amp I left a welding mark on the inside wall(shipping container) by the controller. And still have the T-shirt with the burn spots.
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