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Old 07-28-2016, 07:05 PM   #5671
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Wow Terry I just saw that truck pic of the taillights !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Saaaaaaaaweeeeeeeet!


I'm with the gang , git campin' no matter how close , even right where it's parked now !!!
Put some hours just sittin' in 'er.
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Old 07-28-2016, 07:11 PM   #5672
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Hi popeye, Thanks!! I know Eleanor and I keep saying we need to go somewhere, the trip to Ohio is off so need to figure somewhere close, this is just one of those years that things just don't "click"
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:06 PM   #5673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harley1994 View Post
Hi Gordon, Thanks for the clarification, it was causing quite a stir . Like MK says the British always made me scratch my head, when working on old cars and bikes and looking at a Manuel written in England oh my Dynamos and such . PU beds and boxes get me up yonder too, I wasn't sure what BoxLiner was at first then I realized it was BedLiner . On the Canopy you need to wet sand it being careful not to go thru the base color then just clear coat it again, easy peasy
Hi Terry;
Tried that. The clear coat edge is ragged and the clear coat is very thick. It is peeling off. Is there a way to get the clear coat edge fairly straight where it is all over the place?
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:17 AM   #5674
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Gordon,
Thanks for the definition of the "canopy". Hope that you get your clear coat issue straightened out.
Terry,
Seriously, you guys need to just grab the GD, hook up the TH and go, even if it is just to your local park for the weekend. You both will feel better and it will help Eleanor reduce her stress level.
Frank
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:05 AM   #5675
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Good Morning, Gordon, Unfortunately there is no easy way, I have had some luck with sanding down to the original base coat and recoating, but the big thing is what did the original painter use as clear, Lacquer (to my knowledge) is the only clear that you can "feather" out and spot paint because the new paint will blend with the old. The catalyst (2K) clears will not soften and blend with the new, it is chemically locked.
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:10 AM   #5676
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Thanks Terry. I found where the edge of the clear was fairly straight it was easy to take care and get the clear smoothed out without thinning the base. Unfortunately there are some spots where there are large "spikes" that are tough to smooth out without thinning the base on either side. I can take my time on it because the truck is sitting inside and will not deteriorate too much more in the short term. I am thinking of a couple other methods I can try possibly helping or not!!
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Old 07-29-2016, 10:37 AM   #5677
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There are a few products that will melt into the existing clear and let new clear blend are in BUT unless you know exactly what the clear and base paints are they can cause problems (they are chemically similar to paint stripper and thinners). They work well for spot repairs.
Spray Max blender clear and thinner, DuPont Clear Blender are a couple I've used. You do all the prep, scuff the existing clear (or feather it as far as possible) then shoot the new clear and while it is wet you spray the blender on using LIGHT misting coats.

I have used a nib file to cut clear edges down and feather them out with a hard block but it takes a lot of time and with the clear already failing you might be doing the repair only to have another area peel.
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Old 07-29-2016, 11:00 AM   #5678
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Steve, I was hoping you would jump in on this, I've been out of the body shop way too long to know whats out there now, lol Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-29-2016, 02:29 PM   #5679
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Thanks Steve and Terry;


Working on polishing Janet's car. The truck will have to wait for a while. I think I can work in it in my "spare" time and take a lot of time to clean it up. If I mess up it will be no worse than it is right now.
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:11 PM   #5680
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Good Evening, Gordon, you can always have it repainted, . Working on the rear fuel tank crossmember today, cutting out the old one and cleaning the frame to install the one I'm going to build, was going to buy the new replacement but just can't justify (in my mind) 300.00 plus 50 for shipping for a piece of pipe with brackets, I can make the same thing. here's a pic of the one side cleaned up and ready
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:55 PM   #5681
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Gordon, I am having the same issues with the clear peeling off of my '02 F150, I am hoping it's not indicative of what to expect with my '08. I hope to get the '02 repainted by this winter.

I got the new a/c installed in the tt. I hadn't realized just how bad the old one was. The new unit keeps it at a perfect 72 with no issues even in our Texas sun with 100+ temperatures. If any of ya'll are ever near Austin,TX and need something repaired that you can't or don't feel comfortable doing yourself I highly recommend Shots RV Services. They were prompt, professional, and very reasonably priced.

-Ashton
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Old 07-29-2016, 10:42 PM   #5682
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There is nothing wrong with the paint on my 99 F150. It was getting a bit oxidized from sitting outside for years. It has only been inside the last 5 years since we built the shed. I am having issues with the aftermarket box topper. I just finished power polishing the truck and other than rock chips the paint looks as good as new.
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Old 07-29-2016, 11:29 PM   #5683
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My apologies, I misread.
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Old 07-30-2016, 07:06 AM   #5684
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Terry,
I agree with you on the price, that is not right, if the cheapskates at GM would have properly coated the frame in the first place, you wouldn't have to do hardly any of the rebuilding on the frame.
Frank
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