RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Vintage RV's
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-30-2017, 03:47 AM   #99
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 132
Damn, that looks pretty solid, what a score! What engine do you have? Happy to help out however I can, good luck with your sons races! What kind of racing, if I may ask?
__________________

Tidy Tabby is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 03-30-2017, 08:20 AM   #100
Junior Member
 
Chips_Mahoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidy Tabby View Post
Damn, that looks pretty solid, what a score! What engine do you have? Happy to help out however I can, good luck with your sons races! What kind of racing, if I may ask?
It's pretty solid. Only minor issues here and there, but need some work.

It has the 350 engine, 3 speed auto transmission combo. Drives like a tank a rattles. Already looking for a 700R4 to swap into it. I don't really want to drive it on the interstate in the current configuration with it's low gearing. Sounds like it's screaming at 55 mph.

My son races his dirtbike in the IXCR (Indiana Cross Roads Racing) 85cc Youth class. We'll be traveling all over the state for the season and are tired of sleeping on the ground.
__________________

Chips_Mahoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2017, 10:03 AM   #101
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chips_Mahoy View Post
It's pretty solid. Only minor issues here and there, but need some work.

It has the 350 engine, 3 speed auto transmission combo. Drives like a tank a rattles. Already looking for a 700R4 to swap into it. I don't really want to drive it on the interstate in the current configuration with it's low gearing. Sounds like it's screaming at 55 mph.

My son races his dirtbike in the IXCR (Indiana Cross Roads Racing) 85cc Youth class. We'll be traveling all over the state for the season and are tired of sleeping on the ground.
Yeah, the gearing on these things will put you to sleep on the highway.

Cool racing series, I grew up in Louisville and raced BMX for years, a bunch of the kids I came up with ended up moving over to motorcross and racing around KY & IN. Of course this was back in the early 80's, ironically when my Transtar was new.
Tidy Tabby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2017, 11:41 AM   #102
Junior Member
 
Chips_Mahoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidy Tabby View Post
Yeah, the gearing on these things will put you to sleep on the highway.

Cool racing series, I grew up in Louisville and raced BMX for years, a bunch of the kids I came up with ended up moving over to motorcross and racing around KY & IN. Of course this was back in the early 80's, ironically when my Transtar was new.
There's a lot of Kentucky racers, as well as Ohio and Illinois racers in the series. It's a great series! Most of the races are in the southern part of the state because of the natural terrain.
Chips_Mahoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2017, 09:49 AM   #103
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 6
Thanks Tidy Tabby for the improvement on the electrical map and sharing it with us! I've got the original one in my manual and its terrible!!! thanks again for your effort. I'm going to print it and put it in my van!!!
LilJen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2017, 10:29 AM   #104
Junior Member
 
Chips_Mahoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 19
Tidy Tabby, and anyone else for that matter, was your roof section above the driver and passenger "separated"? Meaning, did the rivets or screws that hold it together give out? If so, what did you do to fix it, and did you improve upon the original method?
Chips_Mahoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2017, 10:42 AM   #105
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chips_Mahoy View Post
Tidy Tabby, and anyone else for that matter, was your roof section above the driver and passenger "separated"? Meaning, did the rivets or screws that hold it together give out? If so, what did you do to fix it, and did you improve upon the original method?
Yes, mine absolutely was separated. I think what happened is the metal of the van roof rusted and allowed the rivets holding the "nosecone" down pulled out once the rust got bad enough. Sadly my daughter hired some schlub to come over and grind down the leading edge of the cone and used a structural fiberglass (they were boat repairmen) to essentially glue it back down. Time will tell how well it holds up.
Tidy Tabby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2017, 04:21 PM   #106
Junior Member
 
Chips_Mahoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidy Tabby View Post
Yes, mine absolutely was separated. I think what happened is the metal of the van roof rusted and allowed the rivets holding the "nosecone" down pulled out once the rust got bad enough. Sadly my daughter hired some schlub to come over and grind down the leading edge of the cone and used a structural fiberglass (they were boat repairmen) to essentially glue it back down. Time will tell how well it holds up.
Mine isn't that bad. Mine is like the fiberglass top shrank in the sun or it went off road and pulled them all out. There's a good gap between the fiberglass and the metal roof now. Not sure how I'm going to get the two back together. Once I do, I may use reinforced large flange rivets with a heavy duty panel bond adhesive. I haven't decided if I'll fiberglass over the seam of the two to make it smooth or not. I've got to do some fiberglass repair in a couple other places anyway, so since it'll be out.....😉😉
Chips_Mahoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2017, 11:28 AM   #107
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chips_Mahoy View Post
Mine isn't that bad. Mine is like the fiberglass top shrank in the sun or it went off road and pulled them all out. There's a good gap between the fiberglass and the metal roof now. Not sure how I'm going to get the two back together. Once I do, I may use reinforced large flange rivets with a heavy duty panel bond adhesive. I haven't decided if I'll fiberglass over the seam of the two to make it smooth or not. I've got to do some fiberglass repair in a couple other places anyway, so since it'll be out.....😉😉
What you might have to do it remove the cabinetry in the above-cab area and clamp the shell back down, then re-rivet everything with some elastomeric tape sandwiched in between. This had been my plan but the little girl beat me to it. I guess in a way what we have now is slightly more aero in that we no longer have that leading edge of the nose to catch wind and water since he glassed it all the way down to the rain gutter above the windshield, but again time will tell how structurally sound it will be. I might get froggy and add some rivets inside anyway since, why the hell not at this point?

Still trying to sort out a fuel problem with the engine. Strange as it had been running so well up until recently, now it is stuck in my driveway. Oh well its easier to work on that way.
Tidy Tabby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2017, 07:20 PM   #108
Junior Member
 
Chips_Mahoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidy Tabby View Post
What you might have to do it remove the cabinetry in the above-cab area and clamp the shell back down, then re-rivet everything with some elastomeric tape sandwiched in between. This had been my plan but the little girl beat me to it. I guess in a way what we have now is slightly more aero in that we no longer have that leading edge of the nose to catch wind and water since he glassed it all the way down to the rain gutter above the windshield, but again time will tell how structurally sound it will be. I might get froggy and add some rivets inside anyway since, why the hell not at this point?

Still trying to sort out a fuel problem with the engine. Strange as it had been running so well up until recently, now it is stuck in my driveway. Oh well its easier to work on that way.
The tricky part will be clamping or pulling it back down without over stressing the fiberglass I think, but what do I know? I've never really played with fiberglass before so this will be an educational experience to say the least.
Chips_Mahoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2017, 12:08 PM   #109
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 132
How much of a gap are you talking about? Anything over 1/2" I would be worried about the fiberglass flexing too much and cracking. In our case the nose didn't lift much, probably less than 3/16" at any point, but it was definitely loose as most of the rivets were popped. If yours really lifted that much or more, in all likelyhood the entire nosecone has moved back and weakened the attachment to the shell and roof. What you might want to consider is removing the fasteners and the trim where the nosecone meets the shell and roof (behind the cab) so that the fiberglass can move freely. Once you have the front of it riveted back down to the cab, reinstall the trim and new stainless steel screws (because why put rusty old screws back in?). I am not certain if there is a strip of metal inside at that joint for the screws to grab (so they would sandwich the fiberglass parts between the trim and an interior metal strip, know what I am saying?) or if they are only in fiberglass. Metal strip would be better but more costly so odds are it is not there, the only way to know would be to remove the headliner and that may be farther than you want to get in to this.
Tidy Tabby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2017, 04:25 PM   #110
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 132
Let me say for the record that regarding the wiring diagram that I color coded, caveat emptor. I have been digging through my rig and found a few wire colors that do not show up in the diagram nor the legend, but that are woven in to the original harness. If the universe is good to me, I should be able to update quite a bit but it will take a while.

Additionally, I confirmed that the yellow wire feeding the high watt leg of my tail lights is in fact broken, but it appears that it is broken behind the shower because I skinned it all the way to the shower wall and had continuity up till then. Jumping it from there lit up the brakes and turn signals, so yeah I have a feeling something non-human has lived inside this rig and made a meal of some wires as evidenced by the nesting material I found in the wall cavity. It's all gotta come out anyway.
Tidy Tabby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2017, 02:42 PM   #111
Junior Member
 
Chips_Mahoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidy Tabby View Post
How much of a gap are you talking about? Anything over 1/2" I would be worried about the fiberglass flexing too much and cracking. In our case the nose didn't lift much, probably less than 3/16" at any point, but it was definitely loose as most of the rivets were popped. If yours really lifted that much or more, in all likelyhood the entire nosecone has moved back and weakened the attachment to the shell and roof. What you might want to consider is removing the fasteners and the trim where the nosecone meets the shell and roof (behind the cab) so that the fiberglass can move freely. Once you have the front of it riveted back down to the cab, reinstall the trim and new stainless steel screws (because why put rusty old screws back in?). I am not certain if there is a strip of metal inside at that joint for the screws to grab (so they would sandwich the fiberglass parts between the trim and an interior metal strip, know what I am saying?) or if they are only in fiberglass. Metal strip would be better but more costly so odds are it is not there, the only way to know would be to remove the headliner and that may be farther than you want to get in to this.
That helps. I've got about a 1/2" to 5/8" gap without the the grey strip on the edge.
Chips_Mahoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2017, 03:08 PM   #112
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 132
Lift pump replacement day. The PO (one of them) had installed this electric pump inline and left the OEM one just hanging there, useless and neglected. The wiring to it was pretty sloppy. Maybe this is a part of my stalling problems, better to go back to the engineered condition and start from there.


New pump vs old one.


Clean gasket surfaces and new handmade bracket gasket (the pump came with the pump gasket, but not one for the bracket).


I know what you are thinking, where is the rod? Rest assured it went back in, from reading here and in the book I slopped a bunch of grease on it and it held itself deep into its pocket well enough to get the pump lever underneath it when I installed it.

Replaced the rubber inlet hose with new. Since the outlet pipe was connected to the inline pump, the PO had cut off the flare to make the rubber hose connection. So, I had to flare the end with the line in place, no small task. My forearms are killing me but I got it.


Fully installed, now I get to bleed air out of the injectors again, but I needed a break to eat something.
__________________

Tidy Tabby is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1982 Ford Transtar Rolling Blunders Vintage RV's 2 05-07-2015 11:44 AM
Champion Cabaret Hiway Vintage RV's 10 10-25-2011 06:53 PM
1986 Champion LanaGhil Vintage RV's 34 06-13-2011 12:50 PM
Saving a Champion autoworship Vintage RV's 4 03-15-2011 11:24 PM
Added Hour Meter Champion Gen Set RoryTek Boondocking 7 03-29-2008 02:37 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.