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Old 08-22-2012, 06:02 PM   #15
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Motorhomes generally use permanently mounted ASME Tanks, which do not have expiration dates, and are generally far more stoutly built than their DOT Cylinder cousins.

Even if you do choose to do a conversion to a DOT cylinder, you will need to construct a new compartment up away from the roadway that is isolated from the interior of the rig. A 20lb horizontal bottle usually goes for $150 and gives you between 3.2-4.5 gallons of usable propane, your average ASME tank is usually 7 gallons and goes up from there.

Unless the tank has compromised welds or major structural damage, then it simply has surface rust induced by road spray. The tank can be dismounted and then cleaned using a grinder with a wire wheel or a sanding wheel, then coated with POR-15 and a good marine epoxy finish.

Another option is to use the paint on bed-liner, though I'd still recommend sealing the surface of the metal with POR-15 to prevent the metal from rusting underneath the bedliner.
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:18 PM   #16
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Redneck is on it with my tank when I full timed with daughter and 3 grand kids I could go 3 months before I was down to a quarter of a tank
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:36 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by wirelessenab View Post
Not really that much pressure. At 85 deg F about 140 psi. Not really shrapnel causing pressures. Off course the stuff coming out is flammable in the right concentrations, ie between circa 2% to 10%. But it takes a flame of about 1000 deg F to ignite it so a simple tank failure/rupture is not likely to result in a fire or explosion. Just a big hiss

See HC-290 (PROPANE) PRESSURE - TEMPERATURE CHART
Are you kidding? A propane leak on a motor home, especially in the confines of the storage bays is probably the most dangerous thing you could ever imagine. I can guarantee that leaking propane is ALWAYS in the flammable (explosive) range at atmospheric pressure and WILL explode very violently, and it does not take 1000 degrees to do it. A piezo lighter on any stove or burner generates a very small spark for ignition. Static electricity from walking across the carpet or even the spark created by flipping a light switch will do it.
There is no such thing as a "simple tank failure/rupture"!
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:14 PM   #18
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Take it out to clean and paint, but take it to a dealer to have it tested first.

Test is cheap, easy since it if already out.

If bad be glad you found it, if good then you are certified and can not need to worry
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:49 AM   #19
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Is there some sort of requirement that propane tanks must be light tan color?. I have seen spray cans of Krylon "Propane Tank Paint" at my local RV dealer.

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Does bed liner come in white color? I knew a guy who painted his tanks brown to match his TT and a propane filler refused to fill the tanks!
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:20 AM   #20
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even though my big propane tank 500 gallons isn't under my rv i can tell you a couple of things, age does not matter my tank was built in 1958 and the company i rent it from came out this summer and painted it tan .
condition is all important and they like to see white for heat build up reasons so black is probably a no no but ant light color should fly
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:59 PM   #21
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For $600 I'm replacing mine with a shiny new one, myself. I'd rather be safe, etc. Manchester 6819.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:02 AM   #22
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Just had a chat with the Manchester tank people and they said it was fine to sand it and repaint! Just to make sure it was empty.

So, never mind! Saving $600 bucks towards my new 3 way fridge!
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:20 AM   #23
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Before and after. Anybody know what gauge an ASME tank is?
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:46 AM   #24
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Tank Removal

How hard was the tank removal? I was looking to do the same with mine...thinking of taking it to have the tank done in a white bed liner material...keep it nice but the stones and other crap will not affect it.




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Before and after. Anybody know what gauge an ASME tank is?
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:34 AM   #25
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There's only four 3/8" carriage bolts holding my 25 gallon tank on. The nuts were so rusted and hard to reach I couldn't break them free. I had already pulled up my carpet and the dinette, so the bolt heads were all exposed. I tried a grinder and metal cutting blade, neither worked very well (and I kept starting fires!). The best solution was to drill straight down through the bolt head, start small and work up to 3/8". Half my bolts fell off the others I had to drive out. I replaced the bolts with 1/2" galvanized and epoxied them in place, If I want a new tank eventually, it should just unbolt.
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