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Old 02-16-2011, 02:48 PM   #15
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Before you put a 15 inch wheel on the trailer make sure there is room. If the factory put 13 inch wheels on it, they may have made the wheel wells smaller to give you room in the cabin.

Yep, that's how I found out. Forgot that when you load a trailer it sinks lower and bounces up and down when you hit bumps.
It wasn't pretty.

Steve.
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:34 PM   #16
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Turning Japanese

The Title line above, an 80's Pop Song Title, refers to a viewpoint I've incorporated since going to Asia a lot on Biz since the 80's. Specifically, how to make space serve multiple functions. In Tokyo, in the 'average' 20' x 20' Flat, the Futon Bed rolls up and the low slung Table with Cooking surface in the middle comes down. And so on... Boats and Marine Living are other space-saving idea generators, as are some Truck Campers.

In our new/used lil 14' TT, the Goucho Couch is getting customized/extended into a full length, near Queen Size Bed since one Bench end of the space-gobbling Dinette is coming out. Our 2 folding Chairs used outside could seat company during a Board Game evening during rain or cold. The huge fold up Table is coming out. All items will be kept and stored; good advice given above. The remaining Bench will flip 90 degrees to hug the Wall for some seating just inside the rear Door while the Spouse and Pooch snooze in. One 'recycled' Bench end is the right length/height to support one end of the new, extend-able Bed Frame. The other Bed side foot end will be supported by a small bevel of Wood mounted on the Sink Cab with a lil Wood support inside invisibly. I've built 'clear span' Bed Frames for our Houses, and even 1x4s on end support serious amounts of weight with few/no Legs mid-span. Screws and Glue. I call it 'Glider Wing' construction. Already under the OEM Couch is a great use of space for the 30 Gallon Water Tank and Pump. I can, and will, free up even more storage space by flipping the Pump to the other Couch side.

Flip up 'Cutting Board'-style mini Tables will hold Dinner at the Couch on either end [think large Airline Seat Trays]. Campy TV Trays inherited from Mom-in-Law might also suffice. Set lower down than Trays, and w/a Seat Cushion, a lil fold up/down 'extra' Seat is possible. Of course, a Cutting Board goes over 1/2 half of the 2-sided Sink, and a square of Wood on small block legs will safely go over the cooled-down 3 Burner Cooktop, thus recycling that horizontal space. Recycle space, and then recycle it again.

I visited an American fellow at a German Research Accelerator. His large Table was covered with the usual 'Genius-y' Tech Papers. He grabbed a piece of lovely Cabinet-grade, varnished Ply w/4 corner rubber Feet and set it down. Ta da ~ an instant, clean Tabletop surface to look at sample items and documentation on. Brilliant. I remember his solution still. 2 Tabletops in 1.

If you haven't yet, check out the whole 'Small House' movement and Websites. Some very kewl thinking. I start with 'we need to support Plates and eat a Meal'. From there, I try to come up with 'out-of-the-box' solutions, of which a fixed Dinette, for example, is only one. If needed/req'd, build a lil box under the Porta-Potty and store TP and Soap there, while making the Seat height just what you want. And so on... Rethink it all.

I like my 'Toys', so +12 VDC Toys are the rule. I lived on only +12 VDC for long periods during new House construction. With a USB +5 VDC output on a Plug/Charger, USB Ports can charge Cell Phones; Flashlight/Radio/GPS Batteries; and run lil gizmos w/o clutter and cords. See +12 VDC Pumps online that pop right onto Jerry Can ports. My Wife showed me a new 115 VAC Kitchen 'Toy' where no-stick inserts make it into an Electric Skillet or Griddle or something else I forgot [Waffle Iron?]. A 'Euro' design that does several things well.

One Gal made her outdoor Sink out of Ply with rectangular cutouts. Plastic Office-size Trash Cans w/Lip edges set down into it. Ta da ~ instant 2 Bowl Sink. If on a retractable/flip up Cutting Board idea, you could perhaps wash Dishes inside.

My pal and I might flip our Axles to get further back into remote places, and for me to clear 15" Wheels. 15" sure wouldn't work w/o Axle flips, as noted above. No 'extra' clearance to my Wheel Well 'tops'.

The fewer built-ins 'standard' to older, simpler Trailers is why I thought your original TT weight MIGHT be under 2k lbs dry, sans Propane Tanks, etc..
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:48 PM   #17
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I'd pretty much bet that the 5000 lb weight bit posted earlier is the weight limit of the hitch hardware - NOT in any way the hitch weight of the trailer, or even it's fully loaded weight. I have a similar weight logo stamped into the rear hitch on my truck - and the manufacturer didn't even know WHAT I would be hitching up to and towing...
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:59 PM   #18
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Engineer Guy, the "fasteddy" was given to me by a police officer one July night in 1963. I can still see his face in the window of my 1953 Ford now as he said "Well if it isn't Fast Eddy". That was my nick name from then on. You can never live down or out live a nick name.
I won the race by the way. The officer was hiding down by the finish line and gave me the winners ticket. Took three full pay checks to pay it off.

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Old 02-17-2011, 06:54 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by fasteddy View Post
Before you put a 15 inch wheel on the trailer make sure there is room. If the factory put 13 inch wheels on it, they may have made the wheel wells smaller to give you room in the cabin.

Yep, that's how I found out. Forgot that when you load a trailer it sinks lower and bounces up and down when you hit bumps.
It wasn't pretty.

Steve.

Wow! Thanks for the heads up. I will be checking measurements today.

I honestly believe the 13" wheels on it are not stock or even proper for the TT. It has a 3500 lbs axle and the 13" wheels are only rated at 995lbs each. It sits so low that the leaf springs sit lower than the rims. My guess is someone threw on this 4 lug system because the old wheels and bearings were locked up and rusted. I can tell it had electric breaks installed at one point and the 4 lug hubs are really clean compared to the rest of the axle.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:59 AM   #20
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Wow! Thanks for the heads up. I will be checking measurements today.

I honestly believe the 13" wheels on it are not stock or even proper for the TT. It has a 3500 lbs axle and the 13" wheels are only rated at 995lbs each. It sits so low that the leaf springs sit lower than the rims. My guess is someone threw on this 4 lug system because the old wheels and bearings were locked up and rusted. I can tell it had electric breaks installed at one point and the 4 lug hubs are really clean compared to the rest of the axle.

Ok, I think Im getting it now. Are we thinking the 13" wheels might be proper for it? What kind of clearance would I need for 15"? My axle is mounted on top of the leaf springs, could that be why they used 13" rims?
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:50 AM   #21
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Assumptions

If I had to make guesses cuz it was my Rig, I'd guess the Axle and Leaf Springs are original, based on your observations. Sounds like old Hubs, or old Hubs w/o Brakes, were replaced with Hubs w/Brakes. That's a good thing. Someone may have realized that Brakes were req'd or a good idea regardless of what the Factory did originally. Or, newer Hubs w/Brakes may have fallen into their laps at some great price. How OEM the Brake Wiring appears [if any] is part of the detective work. A huge clue is how the present Wheels sit in the Wheel Well, front to back. If the 'reveal' horizontally on the Tongue and Rear Bumper sides appears uniform and 'correct' [not under-sized], then 13" Wheels likely were original.

The position of the Leaf Springs under the Axles is very standard, unless the Axles are flipped to have the Leaf Springs sit on top of the Axle. Be sure to provide plenty of lead length to the new position of the Electric Brakes.

3,500 lb. Axles are very standard. So, as long as the Hardware lines up [Hub bolt patterns, etc.], that Axle alone doesn't suggest [to me] that higher-capacity Hubs were on originally. Lots of these Rigs went for the 'lowered look' from the Factory in order to reduce drag, or when mod'ded later. This also reduces Center of Gravity on these 'squarish' Rigs.

Playing now the hand you're dealt, Question #1 to to measure from the Tire top to the Wheel Well to see what sort of space you've got to work with. That will determine whether a Wheel upsize is even possible.

A Pro can look at and comment on Question #2: what is the max. Wheel size possible if the Axles are flipped, and whether 15" Wheels are 'ever' possible. My perspective is to go for what Wheels fit; not to shoot for 'this-or-that' size Wheel. 14" Wheels and Load Range C Tires @ 1,860 lbs/ea. on flipped Axles will do the job w/reserve capacity.

My $0.02 worth is that I'd definitely want to upsize to higher-weight-capacity Wheels [and Hubs, but only if req'd] 'just because' that's how I do stuff to avoid Mr. Murphy and his Law causing problems on rough Roads with a Trailer loaded down w/Camping stuff. This 'only if req'd' upgrade approach re: Hubs lets you put your money elsewhere.
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:13 PM   #22
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13" Tires

I was at Big O Tires today for other Biz, and asked about 13" Trailer Tires. The Rep showed me a 13" Load Range C; a '13 70 xx'. It was stamped to handle 1320 lbs. He 'reminded' me that an '80' in the Model number would handle a bit more weight, due to a different Sidewall.

There were a few 13" Load Range D's available, but not in stock. They would handle more weight - having 10 Cords, he said - but his Database didn't show how much more.

Amongst the Trailers I looked at recently was a dual Axle 'Komfort'. It had the 4 Bolt 'plus sign' pattern, as many older Trailers do. So, if the assumption is that this 4 bolt pattern doesn't tolerate as much weight, perhaps that isn't true? Look at how much weight some of the new 4 Spoke Truck/SUV tricked-out Wheels support.

If only the current Tires are the 'undersized' Suspension component, different Load Range Tires would complement the Tongue/Hitch Ball and Axle capacity and make any Axle/Wheels changes optional...
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Old 02-18-2011, 03:47 PM   #23
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It looks like the answer is the bigger 13" tire. I spoke with a mechanic here and he said to put on ST175/80D-13"s. That would lift the camper about 2" and would give me 1360lbs per tire. Sounds like a winner to me!

So here is another question. Lets say I wanted to replace the hubs because they are old and the bearing are bad. Could I replace them with drum hubs and not put the other half of the break on just in case I do decide to put breaks on later?

This



Without this



Instead of this



lol I just figured pictures are so much better.



Thank you again everyone!
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Old 02-18-2011, 07:00 PM   #24
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Purple Haze

Thanks for the pix, but I'm way confused by your question, based on my own experiences. All I've ever dealt with are identical-looking Hubs. In the case of my Utility Trailer, I added on all the various Brake parts onto the existing Hub with the 4 bolt pattern shown above that mated to the 4 hole Plate at the end of my 3,500 lb Axle. These Brakes components could be left off and added later, but the Hub has to be mounted on, of course; the 'Without this' part of your question that's unclear. I'll let others weigh in on that aspect of your question.

My last paragraph above illustrates my 'bias' or position of 'holistic' thinking. The Tires you plan to add are perfect. A bit of the lift desired, and the 'best' weight capacity to be had practically in a 13" Wheel. New Bearings; unscarred new Hub surfaces for the Bearings to contact; all brilliant.

Not adding at least the Brake components while you're in the Hubs anyway is not something I can get my Head around. From my personal 3/4 Ton Truck experience, to what my Contractor pals tell me, only something like a Diesel Truck has the Braking capacity to stop a >1 Ton load [Trailer] w/o separate Brakes. If you bring out and tape off the OEM Brake Wires, at least you can wire to them later pretty easily through a new or mod'ded Trailer Harness & Connector.

Braking on slick Roads, corners or 'washboard' surfaces will bring Trailers 'around' with loss of control. I've personally seen the aftermath of those accidents, and it's ugly. All your hard, customized work gets totaled by the Insurance Company. Trailers 'load up' for Camping pretty fast. Even a 10 gallon Water container adds ~85 lbs.

Hence the Jimi Hendrix Song reference for the Title: 'You got me blowing, blowing my mind'!
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Old 02-18-2011, 09:54 PM   #25
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Yea, I was just trying to cheap out with a bad idea. lol. Im just going to put the entire break setup on it and be done with it. Thank you again for all the help.
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Old 02-21-2011, 01:02 PM   #26
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Update

Working on getting her gutted. The cold and snow hit hard so I had to wrap her up. Here are some pictures.























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Old 02-25-2011, 01:46 AM   #27
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For some ideas of what you can do in a small space... look up "teardrop trailers" or "teardrop campers". You may find a few things that you can use.
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Old 03-04-2011, 11:09 PM   #28
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Most trailer manufactures will use the components they need to handle the weight of the trailer and gear carried. As a manufacturer I have to label trailers with weights, tire sizes, and cargo weight limits. There is no way that your tongue weight is 5000 # this is what your coupler is rated at. Generally speaking a trailers weight and cargo limits are determined by its lightest component; axle, tire, rim, or even spring packs. So, if you have a 3500# axle just because you up grade to tires that are rate higher than the 3500# the trailer legally should not weigh more than the axle rating of 3500#. I have done a number of over axle swaps, this will probably give you about 4" of lift, if you are looking at doing this to gain clearance it is not a bad way to go. Now if you are just doing it to put higher rated tires on, again you are going to be limited by your axle rating.
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