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Old 04-20-2015, 01:05 PM   #1
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Whadaya Wax it With?

OK, I just spent a number of hours scrubbing off oxidation, coal smoke residue, and who knows what. I need to seal it up or it will just begin to reoxidize.

What do you wax your RV with. Hopefully something that can be added to a pail of warm water and mopped on, as I'm really not up to doin' it the old-fashioned way.
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:20 PM   #2
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zep
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:19 PM   #3
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Sorry but I am using a paste wax and am so happy with the results. I also had to use a oxaginator remover. I can eliminate that ugly task. It really brings out the color again. Mothers Brazil's Carnauba paste wax. You won't be disappointed.
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Old 04-21-2015, 09:58 AM   #4
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Back in the 70s I was a gas pumping oil changing teenager at a Texaco station that had an assortment if Texaco branded stuff for yiur cars and one was a red color past wax that had some sort of magic in it as it would go on red but come off with the color of your old paint as it cut the oxidation in one pass and little effort.

Car shined like new and we top coated with turtle wax or I cheated and used minewax clear floor wax with carnuba but that required a lot of buffing.

If only we could find some of that good old texaco wax...
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:48 AM   #5
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TQ60,
Yes back then, we could bring back the new car luster with those products, and I think you must have been using some type of rubbing compound. Yesterdays pant jobs didn't have a clear coat finish like we find on our vehicles today.

Anyway, to answer the question, I like using a bottled liquid wax after a good cleaning, and I only do this once a year since it's a big job.

I may waste a little here and there using a mop modified to hold what I use to apply the liquid in strait strokes to the area I'm working.

Then the same mop most of the time fitted with the approved removal cloth, when I'm doing this alone.

I found, doing one manageable area at a time is better than trying to apply wax to too large an area, and have it either dry too hard, or attract moisture and that makes for a really hard job. Plus you can stretch the work out a few days and still enjoy your coach if you just pick a spot today, do it, and another spot the next day.

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Old 04-21-2015, 06:51 PM   #6
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Rubbing compound it was not.

Have plenty of that with polishing compound and both have obvious grit where the Texaco stuff did not.

It had texture of vasoline and no clue what the magic stuff is.

Ours is 1989 model and likely never waxed...did one spot and it looks good but 38 ft is a buildings worth for a lazy person...
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:45 PM   #7
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ours has full factory paint from 1987 no clear coat whats best to get
it shining again its a little dull in parts but not to bad thanks
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:44 PM   #8
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ZEP

Can u provide a link to the product? I found a truck wash/wax product for $115 for five gallons, which I probably wouldn't use in a lifetime. Another product, listed as a foaming car wash didn't say anything about waxing, shining, or protecting, just cleaning.
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:50 PM   #9
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Spritz?

What year is your bounder? Mine is a 33 footer from 89.

I washed mine with a mixture of mister clean concentrate and fantastic mixed with water. Fantastic is really a good cleaner if you keep it off of glass, but if it dries on, you have to scrub it off. The mr clean seemed to give me a pretty clean rinse. The coach was filthy when I bought it this winter, so am pretty happy to see what a little elbow grease can do. It looks better than I thought it would. However, I can still see that the skin is lighter colored over the steel framework. I don't know if this will clean up with more work, or is possibly a fade problem mitigated by the steel underneath (magnetic field?)

What did you use to deal with the oxidation? Was it a liquid or a rub on paste. I have way to much to do to be rubbin and buffin my spring away, but am open to suggestions.

Thanks


Quote:
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Sorry but I am using a paste wax and am so happy with the results. I also had to use a oxaginator remover. I can eliminate that ugly task. It really brings out the color again. Mothers Brazil's Carnauba paste wax. You won't be disappointed.
Tim.
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:54 PM   #10
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What the heck is that in your photo CUSTOM. It certainly doesn't look like it came from 1987!
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by searchinferu View Post
OK, I just spent a number of hours scrubbing off oxidation, coal smoke residue, and who knows what. I need to seal it up or it will just begin to reoxidize.

What do you wax your RV with. Hopefully something that can be added to a pail of warm water and mopped on, as I'm really not up to doin' it the old-fashioned way.

Link:
RejeX
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Old 04-21-2015, 09:25 PM   #12
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searchinferu it a starfire kinda rare i was thinking of using rejex is it ok it use on paint ?
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:34 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by searchinferu View Post
What year is your bounder? Mine is a 33 footer from 89.

I washed mine with a mixture of mister clean concentrate and fantastic mixed with water. Fantastic is really a good cleaner if you keep it off of glass, but if it dries on, you have to scrub it off. The mr clean seemed to give me a pretty clean rinse. The coach was filthy when I bought it this winter, so am pretty happy to see what a little elbow grease can do. It looks better than I thought it would. However, I can still see that the skin is lighter colored over the steel framework. I don't know if this will clean up with more work, or is possibly a fade problem mitigated by the steel underneath (magnetic field?)

What did you use to deal with the oxidation? Was it a liquid or a rub on paste. I have way to much to do to be rubbin and buffin my spring away, but am open to suggestions.

Thanks
Its a 1982 Pace Arrow by Fleetwood. 30 footer
When I first bought her she was really heavy oxidized and I used a liquid from McGuires.#83 and higher. A real pain . This year I decided to go back to a paste. Its Mothers California Gold, Brazilian Carnauba Cleaner wax. Man what a difference no need for a oxidize remover it does it all. Don't use alot as its harder to get off. We got the front cap done in one day. It really brought the old color back. I also found that a Terry cloth towel removed it easier that the micro-fiber towel. I wish I would have had my buffer with but I don't think the other campers would have liked to listen to that all day... I also used a tooth brush and Q-tips to get it off all the screws and crevasses. Nothing worse that looking at all that white film all over the screws and nooks and crannies.
I also used Rejex and that is a good product also, but didn't seem to last over the winter.
Good luck, Do You have any pictures to share?
Tim
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:58 PM   #14
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I obtained a gallon or wash and wax stuff from Camping world, which looks and smells like turtle wax. About as difficult to buff off as well. I do that at the beginning of the season, and the end just before winterizing. any time I wash it, I use Griot's Garage spray on wax. It goes on after the wash, but before drying and you chamois it off a car, so I just do the same on the trailer. I haven't had much build up with it on either car or trailer, so pretty happy with it.
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