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Old 02-22-2011, 04:28 AM   #15
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1985 p-32 the lowers when suported would move up and down maybe 1/8 in. it may not have been that bad but i nit pick everything

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Old 02-22-2011, 04:49 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by paulrtaylor View Post
The tires are bridgestone R187's. I am pretty sure you have the same size 8R 19.5. They were just under 1700.00 mounted and balanced with tax for 6 tires. Not the cheapest tire but not the most expensive either.

And $1700 is pretty good from what I've seen..Was looking at $2300-2600 just for the tires...

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Old 02-22-2011, 07:14 AM   #17
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Thank you, everyone!

The stiffer tires is a good thought- we'll be replacing the steering tires as soon as the snow melts (and we can get the rig out) and the back tires are scheduled for next year, so this is timely.

Kinda sounds like the consensus is :better shocks (Konis? Bilsteins?) airbags in back and maybe a steering stabilizer?
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:52 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Senior Chief View Post
I wonder if folks would be willing to share what they've done to improve handling or ride on their P30/32 chassis and if they felt it was cost effective.

We're looking at several different improvements, and of course, since there IS a limit to the budget, we're hoping we could get the biggest bang for our paltry few bucks.

Any input is appreciated!
I would do the easy things first before spending money. Check the ride hight and adjust to factory setting. Get the 4 corner weights and adjust tire inflation accordingly. Try different pressures in the airbags to find the "sweet spot" where the ride and handling suit you best. Its amazing how these three items alone will affect the handling. All the information on how to do it properly is in the Workhorse Chassis Guide. A change of as little as 5lbs. in the airbags can make a tremendous difference in the ride and handling. The minimum recomended pressure is 55lbs. and the maximum is 100lbs. Lots of room to experiment. Good luck
Harold & Linda
2009 CT coachworks siena 35V
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Old 04-13-2011, 06:26 PM   #19
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i have been dealing with this myself got heavier rated tires on rear ,fronts brand new will live with them for a year or two, found adjusting my rear air bags to different pressures really helped my gen set fringe etc is on pass side the drivers side has all the tanks which we keep empty other then twenty or so gallons of fresh water, the main fuel tank sets closer to the front and the rear tank is centered.
lowered the left side pressures while it was setting the shop to get it as level as possible took for test drive much better of course now the better half is loading up for vacation so will have to reset but have better idea what to do now.
want to upgrade the shocks but will have to wait till next year budget is done for upgrades for now. now its time to pay for fuel yea for big oil

best wishes frank,cricket and harley the dog
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:01 PM   #20
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I have a 1995 Winnebago Adventurer P32 chassis. This is what I did, in sequence. 1) check the bell crank for wear, they are notroious for wearing the bushing, causing loose steering, changed with Brazel's upgrade with ball bearings. 2) Did a four corner weigh and took out the coil springs and air bags on the front suspension and replaced with the new coils matched to the load, again from Brazel's. Installed new shocks, front and rear, and a good front end alignment. This did absolute wonders for the loose, wandering steering. 3) Rear Track bar, from Brazels, took all of the tail wagging the dog in most cross wind situations. 4) Added air bags to the rear axle to take care of trailer towing and swaying in cross winds and on/off ramps. I also took my four corner weight, and checked with Michelen inflation. Based on the chart I run 85 pounds in the front and 75 pounds in the rear.

When I first started, any sort of cross wind, and it was like herding a hog with two sticks, you didn't know where you were going to end up. Each step improved steering and handling. When I started if the off ramp said 35 mph, it was a white knuckle experience at 25 mph. The thing wallowed and wandered all over the place. With all the modifications, if it says 35, I can do 45 and not feel uncomfortable.

I know some will say, that I spent a lot of money, but the increased safety and less fatigue in driving pays off every time I get behind the wheel. You have a pretty big box that you are trying to get down the road safely, and all the money I spent is less than a trip to the emergency room.
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:33 PM   #21
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I enjoyed reading the upgrades and maintenance being done. Hadn't thought about weighing all four corners and springing accordingly. Now that I'm about finished with the roof, I can get to things I enjoy a bit more.

I have a 1994 Pinnacle 305, that I bought about 3 months ago. My Dad also had a 1992 Pinnacle in the late 90s. My Dad bought a pair of "Ellis Safety Wide" wheels for his Pinnacle. The Ellis wheels were suppose to cure a problem with wandering and rutting. I didn't drive his Pinnacle enough to know if they do or not. I haven't driven my Pinnacle that much either, but I do know there is a rutting problem. I'm not sure what my chassis is other than GM and P30(?). I also know that the same chassis is used by GM for Step Vans a regional service vehicle for the most part. The Vans have the same tires 8R 19.5 and lug patterns. My opinion is that 8R 19.5s are too narrow for back roads and bad roads. I think Paul made a good choice when he upgraded to the R187s. My Dad gave me his Ellis Safety Wide wheels they are a custom made 16.5 x 8 wheels. I've mounted 9.50/16.5 Firestone's on them and hope to get them on the Pinnacle this coming week. The Pinnacle has about 60k miles on it, so I'll be checking a lot of what has been mentioned.

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Old 04-19-2011, 04:49 PM   #22
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I installed air shocks on the rear of our 88' 24' Itasca and that helped alot. Monroe doesn't list air shocks but a look at the dimensions of the shocks listed and munting types and I was able to get a set that all I had to do was take the metal bushing out of the top bushing. The top bolt was large enough to replace the bushing with no problem.
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:10 PM   #23
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I have a 1991 Flair 26R that I bought last year and have a question regarding the rear air bags. both were connected together with one valve for air. When traveling I believe since air pressure equalizes, when you went into a turn air would transfer from one side to the other causing the MH to lean more. I figured it would be more stable if they were not hooked together. I bought another tire valve stem and separated them but have yet to test it. has anyone faced this issue.
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Old 04-24-2011, 05:19 AM   #24
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you do not want them hooked together run 2 separate lines
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:50 PM   #25
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Thanks for your reply, Looking forward to a better ride.


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