What did you do to your old RV today?

[charliej]

Well really done yesterday, but changed the oil in the coach and gen, replaced air filter. Added a Fumoto valve to replace the drain plug. Can't wait to do next oil change, should be a lot easier.

[ga traveler]

Originally Posted by IamJerryP

Sanded, and primed some of the Chieftain.
Heat gunned some of the decals off, took used the eraser wheel to get some off, eraser wheeled the glue residue off.
Anyone who paints over decals is a spawn of satan

At this time I am considering hammered metal finish, silver base, with charcoal, copper, black, and gold hammered stripes, and a charcoal lower areas where the storage doors are.


Attachment 93013

Jerry: Turn off the computer and get back on the winney! I can't wait to see the finished product. Pictures, Pictures, Pictures.

[MT4Runner]

Changing the front brake pads on my C. I got pads for a '92 F53 and they had the wrong shape backing plate. '92 E350 pads were correct, but weren't in stock. Going to pick up the correct ones tonight and get it done. These are stupid easy to do...especially with the aid of an air wrench for the lugnuts.

[MT4Runner]

Originally Posted by ronspradley

Jerry P, I feel your pain. I am trying to get the decal/stripe off my 1993 Gulfstream and have been for awhile. I have a 7" wide decal/stripe that goes all around the MH, that would be around 80' of it. So far it has been very reluctant to part ways. Best of luck on your painting.

ronspradley

Ron, is your siding aluminum or filon?

I'm about to do my '92 Four Winds with a similar stripe and wondering if I need to worry about heat and the filon?


My last project was an '89 UHaul truck converted into a toterhome. It had the original '89 white/orange UHaul decals, a newer mid-90's decal package over that with motorcycle racers, a full white vinyl overlay when UHaul "de-imaged" it, the 2nd owner was a moving company and their logo was on, and the top layer was another layer of white over the moving company logo. The top layers peeled easily and the bottom was sunbaked and brittle. I used a big heat gun and a weed burner, but I believe the FRP box on that truck was more resilient than filon.

[FastGlassMan]

Originally Posted by MT4Runner

Ron, is your siding aluminum or filon?

I'm about to do my '92 Four Winds with a similar stripe and wondering if I need to worry about heat and the filon?


My last project was an '89 UHaul truck converted into a toterhome. It had the original '89 white/orange UHaul decals, a newer mid-90's decal package over that with motorcycle racers, a full white vinyl overlay when UHaul "de-imaged" it, the 2nd owner was a moving company and their logo was on, and the top layer was another layer of white over the moving company logo. The top layers peeled easily and the bottom was sunbaked and brittle. I used a big heat gun and a weed burner, but I believe the FRP box on that truck was more resilient than filon.

MY God , with all of that crap on there I think i'd have plasti-dipped the whole thing, LOL! Bobby

[planojeeper]

Picked up my new converter. I purchased a progressive dynamics pd9245cv it has the charge wizzard built in. I will be doing the install on Sunday I hope. Next I will buy the new batteries.

[IamJerryP]

Originally Posted by ronspradley

Jerry P, I feel your pain. I am trying to get the decal/stripe off my 1993 Gulfstream and have been for awhile. I have a 7" wide decal/stripe that goes all around the MH, that would be around 80' of it. So far it has been very reluctant to part ways. Best of luck on your painting.

The eraser wheel has been a miracle, you can use just the eraser wheel, and it will usually not bother the paint, other than to buff it.
I used a sharp, rigid putty knife, and a heat gun for most of it, so a few places got gouged.
I used 4 eraser wheels total, probably would have taken 8 to do it with the eraser only, as there was one, and two coats of paint to go through just to get to the decal.
i think the hardest part of the job is deciding to just do it

[/COLOR]

[IamJerryP]

A day of sanding and body filler, decals all gone, gouges, dings, scratches, and such filled, sanded, and primed.
Getting there, still a ways to go before the real paint gets put on, but I am more than halfway there.
Going to have to pick the new colors soon

[roaddogg369]

IamJerryP....this is coming along great. I can't wait to what colors you paint the motorhome. I'm following thus thread. I have to do the same to my 89 Southwind this summer. ..great work you're doing

[ronspradley]

Originally Posted by MT4Runner

Ron, is your siding aluminum or filon?

I'm about to do my '92 Four Winds with a similar stripe and wondering if I need to worry about heat and the filon?


My last project was an '89 UHaul truck converted into a toterhome. It had the original '89 white/orange UHaul decals, a newer mid-90's decal package over that with motorcycle racers, a full white vinyl overlay when UHaul "de-imaged" it, the 2nd owner was a moving company and their logo was on, and the top layer was another layer of white over the moving company logo. The top layers peeled easily and the bottom was sunbaked and brittle. I used a big heat gun and a weed burner, but I believe the FRP box on that truck was more resilient than filon.

My Gulfstream sides are fiberglass. Filon I do not know. One of my attempts at decal removal used a heat gun. I did not use it for very long since it did not seem to have any effect on the decal. Decals did not get softer and did not come off, at all. Fiberglass did not have any warping or damage. So far, the 3M decal and adhesive remover has been the most successful. And the 3M eraser wheel on my drill. And a razor blade and much time and effort. The MH sits across the road from Fort Hood so maybe I can go over and borrow a flame thrower and see if that will work.

ronspradley

.

[Johnp292]

I'm just catching up on this thread, so I'll post some stuff I've done to our new to us 97 Bounder in the past 2 months since we bought it.

On our first trip I discovered the propane alarm was temperamental. This is one of the ones that has the cutoff solenoid, so it kept interrupting the propane. A little research and I learned they are supposed to be replaced every 5 years or so, and the one in our coach was the original from 97. I ordered a replacement and got to work. I know the cutoff was no longer required, but I liked the idea so I decided to go with the more expensive one that has the new solenoid.

Replacement was a little tricky. The opening for the detector was too small, so I had to use a scroller saw to make it bigger. Which meant a trip to the hardware store (boy am I glad a True Value opened 5 minutes away!). The fittings for the new solenoid didn't match the ones for the old solenoid, so that was also a trip, this time to Home Depot as the True Value didn't have anything that would work. I already have yellow tape and leak detector so I was good to go. With the running around, it took a couple of hours to install, and was a little tricky at the propane tank (had to remove everything from the valve to the hose rather than just bolt on the new solenoid). Wiring required a little thought and basic electrical knowledge as the new unit really isn't a direct replacement for the old CCI unit, but it's in, it works, and now I have a new detector that monitors both propane and CO, so I killed two birds with one stone.

[aboatguy]

Replaced a jack that wouldn't self retract. I replaced the springs with the new style springs and all that did was make the jack NOISY. So today I bit the bullet and replaced the jack. Honestly there's no drama involved. (Removing and replacing the springs is the biggest part of the JOB


Now its time to take the rig down to the beach for a nice three day staycation.



Old jack and the new one had to move two sensors over to the new one






IMO this is the easiest way to stretch the spring IOT insert the wedges!

[MT4Runner]

Originally Posted by MT4Runner

Changing the front brake pads on my C. I got pads for a '92 F53 and they had the wrong shape backing plate. '92 E350 pads were correct, but weren't in stock. Going to pick up the correct ones tonight and get it done. These are stupid easy to do...especially with the aid of an air wrench for the lugnuts.

Got my pads changed out. One of the caliper slide pins was rusted and stuck. I soaked it with PB Blaster and then ground a hex shape on the end of the pin and railed on it with the air impact until it freed up. Slide hammer to pull it out and then filed the pin back smooth. The bore is 5/8" diameter, so I drilled it out and a lot of flaky rust came out. Fresh anti seize will hopefully keep it from happening again.

Somehow the trans shifter wasn't in sync with the column shift lever. I Googled and learned I had to disconnect the trans side of the cable. It has a serrated body with a matching clip. With both shifter and trans in neutral just pop the clip back in. Surprisingly easy.

My front antisway bar mounts were bent so I straightened them out and painted the bar bright blue. Why not!? It's a Ford!

[Abitbig]

OK I know she's a bit old. But VINTAGE. But this forum has more in common with what I have been dealing with than I would have ever imagined. Yesterday I finally got the water system to flow with no leaks. No water heater. Bypassed. But no leaks. Today full 110v from shore line. I've had the stuck jack. Leaking Hydro-Boost. Worn out sway bar bushings. But I've got me a Winnebago and am ready (almost) to travel.