Community Forums

noserider · 05-13-2015, 07:43 PM

Sorry about the repeated pics. Had some difficulty with the uploads.

Those of you planning to remove your decals/stripes the biggest tip I can give you is use the Large Eraser wheel by 3m and don't screw around with the little one you use on a drill. The 8 inch you use on a orbital sander/buffer. It's around $100 and worth it. The big wheel is a bunch of floppy disk put together on a single shaft. It's hard to imagine how it's works but it does. I wasted several days trying all the other things before I purchased the big daddy wheel. This should be your main tool for taking everything off and then use the other snake oil formulas to finish up the details. If you do this you will be light years ahead of all the others that came before you and struggled including myself.

Possum · 05-13-2015, 09:47 PM

I managed to get the water leak under the kitchen sink fixed and found a new but easily fixed problem while doing this job. Tomorrow i go to pick up the little screw clips that hold the sink down to the cupboard.

flaggship1 · 05-13-2015, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Possum

I managed to get the water leak under the kitchen sink fixed and found a new but easily fixed problem while doing this job. Tomorrow i go to pick up the little screw clips that hold the sink down to the cupboard.

You have until August to work this out!

ronspradley · 05-14-2015, 07:05 AM

Noserider, can you please give me a link to this larger decal eraser wheel you used. I have been looking and all I can find is the 4" wheel. I have been using the 4" and it works but it is very slow as you say. Thanks.

ronspradley

.

noserider · 05-14-2015, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronspradley

Noserider, can you please give me a link to this larger decal eraser wheel you used. I have been looking and all I can find is the 4" wheel. I have been using the 4" and it works but it is very slow as you say. Thanks.

ronspradley

.

Here it is. I did not buy from this place but that is a very good price. I bought mine locally and paid more.

3M - 7517 LASR DISC LG AREA REMOVAL

I found out about this product talking to several shops that make a living removing and installing RV graphics. Not my DIY folks know about this wheel. I read everything I could find before I started and it was never mentioned. The smaller wheel you have is great for removing pinstripes and is used regularly by auto body shops. Yes the small wheel works but takes much longer. I used both sizes. The small is good for tight areas. If you decide to use the big wheel give me a call and I'll share some techniques on how to use it I learned along the way. It's a little difficult to describe in words. My cell is 832-341-9874. If I don't answer leave a message and I'll call you back.

ronspradley · 05-14-2015, 09:11 AM

Thanks Noserider. I ordered one of the large decal erasers. And thanks for the offer of your phone number to call for help. That may well be in our futures.

And now what kind of machine does this need? You said random-orbit I think and I have a 7" varible speed buffer. What do you recommend for this eraser wheel?

ronspradley

.

noserider · 05-14-2015, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronspradley

Thanks Noserider. I ordered one of the large decal erasers. And thanks for the offer of your phone number to call for help. That may well be in our futures.

And now what kind of machine does this need? You said random-orbit I think and I have a 7" varible speed buffer. What do you recommend for this eraser wheel?

ronspradley

.

Yours should work fine. Something like this.

7 in. 10 Amp Variable Speed Polisher

You will also need the adapter to screw the wheel on but you most likely already have that as you need it for other attachments as well.

3M Screw On Buffing Pad Adaptor 05710

Below is a picture of Large disk with adapter.

ronspradley · 05-14-2015, 10:29 AM

Thanks again Noserider. I finally have some hope that those %^$#**@# decals will come off. I was getting closer and closer to looking for a blow torch and the other more permanent solution.

ronspradley

.

Magumba · 05-16-2015, 02:37 PM

Replaced shower faucet valve, shower head, etc, also added shutoff valves to the water supply lines.

Dogpatch · 05-16-2015, 07:41 PM

I had some bad beveled latches on my basement compartments doors. Bought 4 new ones for $11 ea.
Problem.....my coach has a couple of lift up bus doors on passenger side. The only way to get at the latch hardware is from the back.
Problem.....the bus door hardware is mounted to the back on both ends.
Solution.....spend 4 hours taking all the hardware off, removing the huge door, removing the back, replacing the two $11 latches, put the back on, request help holding the door in place, re-attach all the bus door lifting hardware and re-align the door to close.

I thought it would be an easy remove two screws, replace the part, put the two screws back in. NOT!

Probably why the last owner never fixed it. LOL

talbott357 · 05-16-2015, 10:10 PM

Replaced the second of two roof top a/c units, worked on the choke for the Onan gennie, cleaned out at organized the basements on the 86 Pace Arrow 30 footer. The first a/c unit I replaced about a month and half ago.

IamJerryP · 05-17-2015, 07:26 PM

This weekend, I fixed an exterior delam spot behind the fridge , over the wheel well. it was bugging me so much that I had to do something, what a pain, ended up cutting it out, and redoing it.
The wood had actually turned into sawdust, and fallen to the bottom of the behind the bottom of the panel.
Multi tool with the saw blade made quick work
Wanted to get a final coat of paint on it, but it rained a lot today, so I got to wet sand instead

Just decided to sand it out even better.
Can't find any green hammered metal finish for the basement storage doors up to the trim piece, which figures as it is always available when I do not need it.

FastGlassMan · 05-17-2015, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IamJerryP

This weekend, I fixed an exterior delam spot behind the fridge , over the wheel well. it was bugging me so much that I had to do something, what a pain, ended up cutting it out, and redoing it.
The wood had actually turned into sawdust, and fallen to the bottom of the behind the bottom of the panel.
Multi tool with the saw blade made quick work
Wanted to get a final coat of paint on it, but it rained a lot today, so I got to wet sand instead

Just decided to sand it out even better.
Can't find any green hammered metal finish for the basement storage doors up to the trim piece, which figures as it is always available when I do not need it.

Jerry, if you really want the hammered finish green , I think any good auto body supply can mix it up and put it in rattle cans for you if you don't have a spray rig. Probably would be expensive in spray cans but it shouldn't be that bad in spray it yourself form, might be worth a shot! Bobby

Brockx · 05-18-2015, 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IamJerryP

Can't find any green hammered metal finish for the basement storage doors up to the trim piece, which figures as it is always available when I do not need it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FastGlassMan

Jerry, if you really want the hammered finish green , I think any good auto body supply can mix it up and put it in rattle cans for you if you don't have a spray rig. Probably would be expensive in spray cans but it shouldn't be that bad in spray it yourself form, might be worth a shot! Bobby

Rustoleum has a "hammered" finish paint at Wal-Mart and others in a rattle can. Very good stuff, used it on several projects. If they don't have the correct color you can paint over it with a mixed product.