Community Forums

Timberwolf · 03-02-2018, 08:55 PM

Another day crawling around underneath it. Greased all but one fitting-have to move it to get to it, it's in a u-joint. Adjusted all the brakes and freed up everything that was frozen- except one clevis between the air brake and the cam rod. The pin is frozen tight. Thought I didn't like the way the brakes felt. The other side was frozen too, but I managed to work that one loose. Hoping the overnight sit with penetrant will convince it.

Timberwolf · 03-02-2018, 08:57 PM

Flatnose Frank is going to make some of those newer rigs jealous!

Timberwolf · 03-04-2018, 09:08 AM

Well, an overnight sit with penetrant didn't help. After a jaunt over to a friend's to borrow his torch's I got back and judiciously applied heat to the pivot. Got the pin out, took a file to it and reinserted it for fit. Good fit, so out it came again and greased pin and all three pivoting points, then did the same for the right side. Having CDL told me those brakes were inadequate. I've had rigs with problems, but all stopped better than this did. Today the water separator for the diesel gets replaced and hopefully I find that last 500 RPM that's been missing. Gotta get that last grease fitting too so that can be scratched off the list.

One of the projects for today is finding out just where the access is for my tail lights so I can replace the bulbs with LED's. Well, daylight's burning!

Lonesome54 · 03-05-2018, 09:32 PM

Ahh had to use the "hot wrench" best to replace that. Have seen them break or bend due to having heat applied to remove it

filethis2 · 03-06-2018, 04:09 AM

Installed a new water pump and winterizing kit, and still working on my furnace in my '96 Roadtrek. The furnace is short cycling. You tube videos say 99%of the time it just needs cleaning. Pulled the electrode out to clean it,used can air in the chamber. Unfortunately I wrecked the gasket and had to get a new one. Have to put it back together and fire it up.
I'm trying to do it without pulling it all the way out. It's hard wired, and I hate clipping them and having to reattach them.

Barrett-FL · 03-06-2018, 06:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BJohnsonsv

Took a week off for vacation, but made good progress over the last two weekends:

> Finished the battery/inverter connections as well as the electrical panel (up to the fuse panels)
> The 1/2 inch subfloor was just too thin and flexy, so we glued another 1/2 inch to it in all walkways - makes for a solid, non-squeak floor
> Started installing coach lights
> Finished all cabinet door & drawer installs
> Rebuilt entry step and installed pulldown exterior step
> Made plumbing progress w/ hot/cold hoses and sink/shower valves
> Installed all cabin control panels
> Started finishing the handrail and shelf on dinette

I'm actually starting to envision a REAL finish date in April (not taking bets).

More pics here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/202680...20240680/page6

I must say that I am impressed with your knowledge and abilities. You're doing a phenomenal job.

How do you think the weight will differ from the original...heavier or lighter?

Charlie and Martha · 03-06-2018, 08:43 AM

Flatnose Frank is looking spectacular. Kudos Sir!

Charlie and Martha · 03-06-2018, 08:47 AM

Installed our new ceiling fan yesterday. Turned out that the solid state control required a new (extra) pair of wires to be installed to power and control fan speed and reverse features.

It took nearly four hours of carefully considered work to get the pair pulled into the switch cut out. I had to snake the wires through the return air duct, and then drill through the bedroom double pocket door header and then down into the switch opening.

The fan is now up and running but it wobbles badly. I inspected it and it appears that the the disk that the fan blades are attached to is warped. I am going to remove it and trying to true it up some.

It was nice to have the fan last evening though. I think overall it was worth the time to replace it.

BJohnsonsv · 03-06-2018, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barrett-FL

I must say that I am impressed with your knowledge and abilities. You're doing a phenomenal job.

How do you think the weight will differ from the original...heavier or lighter?

Thank you! Learning and re-learning so many things along the way.

I estimate +500lbs because of some added plywood to stiffen floor, a third battery, larger water tank, and a 70lb inverter. Have really tried to be weight conscious though. e.g we went with 1/2" and 5/8" ply instead of 5/8" and 1/2" for cabinets.

I still expect to come in under 12,000 lbs fully laden when done. That was part of the appeal of these coaches in the day - significantly lower weight than average 25-30 ft A classes.

BJohnsonsv · 03-06-2018, 04:36 PM

Finding it hard to find more than an hour here and there, but making ok progress getting the interior lights installed in Flatnose Frank.

I REALLY like these Acegoo under cabinet LEDs from Amazon. Solid quality, small, bright, warm light. Springs are surprisingly strong (but, one came loose and flew who-knows-where).

Also installed the last (of only 2) solid, aluminum original swivel reading lights that I restored and a cheap, tinny remake (that will do...but sure wish I had another original).

And, took about 1.5 hours to figure out and properly install the first push-button cabinet latch knob. They are great quality, and I bought them direct from China where they're made via AliExpress for less than half the price I found elsewhere. I waited three weeks for shipping, but worth the savings. Just 20 more to install.

more pics HERE as always...

BJohnsonsv · 03-06-2018, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BJohnsonsv

we went with 1/2" and 5/8" ply instead of 5/8" and 1/2" for cabinets.

I meant to say "1/2" and 5/8' instead of 5/8" and 3/4""

Timberwolf · 03-06-2018, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lonesome54

Ahh had to use the "hot wrench" best to replace that. Have seen them break or bend due to having heat applied to remove it

Well, I've always found it's like working with a frame or sheet metal. The trick is to keep your temp low enough that you don't change the steel's characteristics.

veraken · 03-07-2018, 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlie and Martha

Installed our new ceiling fan yesterday. Turned out that the solid state control required a new (extra) pair of wires to be installed to power and control fan speed and reverse features.

It took nearly four hours of carefully considered work to get the pair pulled into the switch cut out. I had to snake the wires through the return air duct, and then drill through the bedroom double pocket door header and then down into the switch opening.

For those interested in installing a ceiling fan, this is the one it used. It does not require the additional wires and is IR controlled.

12 Volt RV Remote Control Ceiling Fan 36"

Our MH had a ceiling light, so it was a simple job to replace the light with this fan. I did have to make a wooden plate to cover the opening left by the light which I then mounted the fan to. If you have a bedroom slide, make sure you have the required clearance when the slide is in.

mudslidemary · 03-07-2018, 06:03 AM

Been working on removing old cracked decals and painting on new ones. First I used a heat gun and plastic razor blades, but now I have found a solution called graphixoff and it is so much easier. I plan to do all the decals, but taking a few at a time as it is very time consuming and it depends on the weather how much I can get done