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Old 09-30-2013, 04:55 PM   #463
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I had already done a major upgrade to the engine, solar, and suspension so it was time for the interior.

Amish cooling coil upgrade
American Duo/Solo shades including single from shades throughout.
Front TV upgrade to 32" LED upgrade.
Magnum Pure Sine Wave MS2812 upgrade
Karndean Flooring (Art Select Wood) throughout.

Cost as much as a small car, but since this is my mobile cabin, call it my efforts to stimulate the economy
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:02 AM   #464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
Tell us the part about separating the panes? Tough? What did you use?

You should know by now if yours is doing it mine is to!
For those with some free time

This procedure is for windows with a "hard spacer". If you have "creeping soft seals" the procedure is probably similar (but I never tried it).

Buy sealant and 3/4 - 1 inch butyl tape (1/2 inch is too hard to work with). The window flange is 3/4 inch and you need full coverage. If you haven't used butyl tape before, it's kind'a like sticky modeling clay.

C.R. LAURENCE 877 CRL Silicone Foam and Metal Spacer I.G. Sealant: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: Dicor BT18341 1/8" x 3/4" x 40' Butyl Tape: Automotive

You can also find this stuff on eBay (including new spacer material):

Follow glasswarepro on eBay Profiles

1) Remove all screws from inner garnish but leave in place.
2) Break outside seal with a putty knife (my window uses a rubber gasket).
3) Remove entire window assembly and place on table or saw horses.
4) Find the seam in the frame and remove screws (usually covered with sealant)
5) Remove any screws from crossbars.
6) Carefully pry seam apart and wedge open.
7) Remove double pane assembly from grooves in frame (exactly how you do this depends on which pane(s) you need to fix).
8) Remove and save any rubber seals on edges of panes.
9) Carefully slide a very sharp razor or utility knife between glass and spacer (cut thru sealant).
10) Slide blade all the way around until seal is broken.
11) Repeat on 2nd pane.
12) Carefully remove spacer and trim remaining sealant from outside edge, and top and bottom surfaces. Don't break the corners. Store spacer for later use.
13) Clean both pieces of glass ... mine were slightly etched. I used a car polisher and polishing compound and got good but not perfect results. If necessary, glass may need to be replaced (4 week order in my town). I used Lexan (Home Depot) in a window and it's still fine after 1 year.
14) Reassemble glass/spacer/glass (I exchanged glass to put the less perfect surfaces to the outside ... it's easier to see thru with blemishes on the outside). If you have a low humidity workspace (air conditioned), use it ... it's not critical ... you may need to do this again in 3 years anyway because the vehicle flex is very hard on dual-pane windows.
15) Place a small weight on top glass (a ziplock with sand) to keep glass from moving.
16) Apply sealant ... fill entire groove. Don't worry about excess ... it's easily trimmed after cure time.
17) Add some more weight to fully compress glass layers.
18) Don't touch it for 20-24 hours!
19) Trim any excess sealant flush to glass.
20) Reverse assemble and use spray silicone on any rubber seals to ease assembly.
21) Reseal and screw heads and frame seams.
22) Replace window assembly using butyl tape (apply tape to frame flange) .... fill any gaps in wall/cap if you are working on front of RV. The cap/side panel joints are a source of water leaks.
23) While your assistant holds window in place, replace garnish ... tighten screws a little at a time in a cross pattern to slowly compress butyl. Tighten by hand to avoid breaking the screws or stripping the frame !!
23) Trim any butyl that oozes out with blunt knife.
24) Have a cold beverage and enjoy the view.

Allow about 3 hours per window (not including cure time). If the window isn't etched it takes less time and effort. I have not found any chemical that removes the etch ... polishing is the only way to clean it.

Expect good/excellent results but not a miracle !!

--------------------------------------------------------------

EDIT: If you are working on a piece that has a handle/bar attached, the handle is usually held with double backed tape. Heat the handle very carefully and gently pry the handle off. Do not bend the bar !!! Reattach with sealant instead of tape.


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Old 10-01-2013, 07:20 AM   #465
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Bruce,
Thanks VERY much for taking the time to write all that out! It should be made into a 'sticky' somewhere?

Both of my fronts are doing the same thing. Thinking about doing them both at the same time as it wouldn't add that much time to doing just one?

Is there enough sealant/spacers to do 2 of the fixed panes included?

What did you use for buffing compound?

Did you put plastic or something over the window opening while you had it out, or just roll the dice?

Thanks much, -Al
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:01 AM   #466
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Quote:
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Bruce,
Thanks VERY much for taking the time to write all that out! It should be made into a 'sticky' somewhere?

Both of my fronts are doing the same thing. Thinking about doing them both at the same time as it wouldn't add that much time to doing just one?

Is there enough sealant/spacers to do 2 of the fixed panes included?

What did you use for buffing compound?

Did you put plastic or something over the window opening while you had it out, or just roll the dice?

Thanks much, -Al
Hey Al, you are very welcome! I don't have any pictures cuz I was too busy working ... there are some around ... I used other folks pics to get an idea what I needed 6 months ago.

I didn't replace my spacers ... I used the originals. I think you just measure the circumference of each window to figure how much you need.

As for the sealant, 1 tube does 2 panes (but just barely). If you did all 3 panes in our configuration, 2 tubes per side would be about right. In my case, the top heavily tinted section did not need to be done and I never look thru it anyway because it's way to high to see anything. So, if you skip that one, 3 tubes would do the 4 panes in the bottom halfs.

I used Mequirs Polishing Compound ... for the first pass on etched glass you can add some Comet.

I used painters plastic and blue painters tape to cover the holes. I was actually more concerned about birds than rain.

The spacers (the old ones) have tiny holes and there is desiccant inside the spacers. I'm sure the desiccant is worthless now but I didn't concern myself with it.

When I did the driver's side 6 months ago it had one piece of glass that was really badly etched. I saved the remaining piece and cut a piece of Lexan (it's nearly unbreakable and is UV resistant) and reassembled with the Lexan nearest the driver (real glass to the exterior). Still looks great.

If you are doing all of them, save the best glass for driver's side slider ... it's the one that was most annoying because it has the screen and when it was pushed forward (2 panes plus screen) you couldn't see using the mirror ... backing into a site with the window open to listen for my assistant yelling directions from somewhere in the back!!

Overall a bad job but the results are very good.
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:34 AM   #467
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We tore out the old refrigerator after much debating the pros and cons of that action. It came out much easier than expected. The cabinet is still in one piece, and after cleanup we found some rather scary scorching on the floor that made us feel better about the the decision. Next hubby has to fix the sagging cabinet, then wire the converter back in.
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Old 01-24-2014, 06:01 AM   #468
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Tore out the old glass and metal shower surround and replaced it with a Recmar bendable metal track and a new fabric shower curtain. I can get in the shower without banging my head !!

RECMAR 4372 Deluxe Shower Curtain Kit 72" Long
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Old 02-01-2014, 10:34 AM   #469
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took picture of the old CB, removed the twin Antenneas and put it up for sale for $25.00 dont like that stuff up on the dash, bad part is now theres holes in dash and ceiling from the external speaker.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:27 AM   #470
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took picture of the old CB, removed the twin Antenneas and put it up for sale for $25.00 dont like that stuff up on the dash, bad part is now theres holes in dash and ceiling from the external speaker.
You could always get a vinyl repair guy to fix the holes in the dash.
I've had them do work on my boat upholstery. They can do wonders.
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Old 02-01-2014, 03:17 PM   #471
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Gee, the only thing other than sleep in it, sit in it, cook in it, and eat in it, I did to my motor home today..... I have a power distribution strip near the driver's seat it provides power to the Engel Freezer, and several radios and a fan.. Had one circuit on it short out (Still have not figured out exactly how) Took it apart and cleared the short and put it back in service, Moved it since there was some kind of stick stuff on it that was clearly liquid at one point and may have caused the short. (NO, I don't drink soda in the driver's seat, Water, yes, Coffee yes (Black) but nothing sticky, and when it shorted I was a good six feet from it).

All working now.. The strip is a "Rig-Runner" from West Mountain Radio, Very nice power strip.
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Old 02-01-2014, 04:12 PM   #472
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Gee, the only thing other than sleep in it, sit in it, cook in it, and eat in it, I did to my motor home today..... I have a power distribution strip near the driver's seat it provides power to the Engel Freezer, and several radios and a fan.. Had one circuit on it short out (Still have not figured out exactly how) Took it apart and cleared the short and put it back in service, Moved it since there was some kind of stick stuff on it that was clearly liquid at one point and may have caused the short. (NO, I don't drink soda in the driver's seat, Water, yes, Coffee yes (Black) but nothing sticky, and when it shorted I was a good six feet from it).

All working now.. The strip is a "Rig-Runner" from West Mountain Radio, Very nice power strip.
That usually happens to me when I stumble carrying a glass of wine ... goes about 6 ft.
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:59 AM   #473
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You could always get a vinyl repair guy to fix the holes in the dash.
I've had them do work on my boat upholstery. They can do wonders.


I will look for a vinyl repair kit and do it myself, I am semi retired mechanic, NO ONE works on my stuff, EVER.. they charge $140 a hr up here, rediculous, bad part is I have no more garage, it burnt down Nov 8. taking our new 23 ft Travel Trailer , pickup, 2 snowmobiles,Honda Gold Wing, Tire Machine, Quad, and 3 generations of tools, my fathers, my sons and mine, Rat Bas---- Insurance co, will only pay 1/3 of cost to replace the garage and 1/10 for tools. I did get fair settlement for the motorized vehicles, but for the actual Garage ,Underinsured they say..sorry to start rambling, after having to pay $4000 a yr to insure all our stuff and dealing with these rat Ba---- , and now ,not having a heated shop after 35 yrs, is real hard to work outside in 30 below..
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:32 AM   #474
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You could always get a vinyl repair guy to fix the holes in the dash. I've had them do work on my boat upholstery. They can do wonders. I will look for a vinyl repair kit and do it myself, I am semi retired mechanic, NO ONE works on my stuff, EVER.. they charge $140 a hr up here, rediculous, bad part is I have no more garage, it burnt down Nov 8. taking our new 23 ft Travel Trailer , pickup, 2 snowmobiles,Honda Gold Wing, Tire Machine, Quad, and 3 generations of tools, my fathers, my sons and mine, Rat Bas---- Insurance co, will only pay 1/3 of cost to replace the garage and 1/10 for tools. I did get fair settlement for the motorized vehicles, but for the actual Garage ,Underinsured they say..sorry to start rambling, after having to pay $4000 a yr to insure all our stuff and dealing with these rat Ba---- , and now ,not having a heated shop after 35 yrs, is real hard to work outside in 30 below..
Sorry for your loss olevangaurd. I'm in the insurance restoration end of the process dealing with the contents, structure demolition and re-build. I hear it all the time about underinsured claims and really feel for people. Insurance on out buildings are a real source of issue for most although that's depending on the insurance company and what your policy reads. In many cases, I find that most people aren't explained their policies well enough by the people who sell them and didn't know how much insurance they actually had.
I also know the area you live. It can get nasty cold there!
I hope everything works out for you.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:32 AM   #475
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Also one that has a shop, doing 99% of my own work, you have my total sympathy. I would be crushed....

Then, it would be time to get to work? Do it again with experience gained since the last time?

Best of luck! -Al
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:00 AM   #476
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Got it set up in the yard to live in while work going on in the house
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