RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Vintage RV's
Click Here to Login

Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-13-2019, 10:58 PM   #4873
Senior Member
 
Gulf Streamers Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 664
SO you have the training, assume you mean ATS, pull it out, inspect/tighten, clean/ file relay contacts and reinstall, and check for free movement and tight wires, good capacitors? Mayb not need $250, may just need some LOVE :-)
__________________

__________________
99-GS Conquest Limited 6266 Class-C
THenne1713 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 04-14-2019, 07:49 AM   #4874
Senior Member
 
Charlie and Martha's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Where We Park
Posts: 1,243
Blog Entries: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by NF6X View Post
Thanks for the feedback! The seller texted me that he'd rather knock $500 off the price after wrenching his back working on the cab A/C yesterday. I can't blame him for that! He's taking it in for a smog test on Monday, and hopefully I'll be driving it home before too long.

I don't know how long I'll be pouring money and work into it before it's solid for an uneventful trip. I have an annual vacation at the beginning of May. I'd like to have the Allegro all ready for next year's trip, but I'll rent an RV for this year's one. I know I'll need to do work on both the cab and roof A/C, and I may want to put new tires on it, too ($ouch). This weekend I'm bolting a 30A RV outlet on the side of my house. Regardless of buying the Allegro and whether that all happens before my trip, I'll want it there for plugging in the rental while I'm getting packed up anyway.

Almost all of the original plastic baggage door hold open hooks have broken off, and i think that replacing them will be one of the first things I'll do. I haven't made up my mind yet about using metal versions of the rectangular plastic ones that are on it, or magnetic catches, or just plain old T-shaped stainless steel trailer door hooks.

With the aluminum skin/roof and fiberglass chop end caps, would rubber well nuts work well for mounting things like baggage door hooks, a rear view camera, and even solar panels? I've used them on things like my aluminum-body HMMWV, and I've found them to be easy to use.

I saw Schrader valves on the side panels near the rear wheels, so I assume it has air bags. Would those have been original? It also has electric steps and an HWH hydraulic leveler system (!). I didn't test out the jacks at the seller's place, since I've read stories about them stranding people when they failed while down at a campground. So I figure I'll play with that at home with my tools handy before I try using it.

I'm more about function than form, so I won't mind if my new money pit doesn't look conventionally beautiful. But if some wax makes the end caps look less chalky, then that may be worth the effort. I'm new to all of this RV stuff. I have been lurking on forums like this one and watching lots of YouTube videos about RV stuff for a while, so at least I had an idea of what I was looking at on the Allegro.

I'm probably going to learn how to patch fiberglass eventually, because there's a crunchy hole at a bottom edge of the spare tire hatch. The wood reinforcement at the top of that hatch is also rotten, so I'll be replacing that. The spare is blown, so I plan to put something usable on there before the 100 mile drive home.

I love the little CRT monitor in the dash, but didn't try playing with it. Would that be a television, or just a monitor for a rear view camera (which doesn't appear to be present)? I've considered whether to pull out the TV and fill the hole with ham radio gear, or leave it in and bring along an old TRS-80 Color Computer for maximum silliness. A modern rear view camera with LCD monitor is on my to-do list. I'm debating between rear view only vs. a three camera setup with side cameras. Said list is very long, and it'll probably take years to afford everything on it!

Once I get my RV (almost certainly this Allegro, but if not, something else within the next year or three), I'll start a new thread for it. It's cool to find other Allegro folks here.
I'd opt for some 2 meter gear.
__________________

__________________
Our Blog - Wandering Toes
Our Coach - 2005 Newmar Northern Star | 350 Cat C7 3126 | Freightliner XC Chassis
We are - Charlie and Martha
Charlie and Martha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2019, 08:03 AM   #4875
Senior Member - DIYer
 
Waiter21's Avatar


 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 5,388
Good weekend to work on the Southwind:

1) Removed both front wheels / brakes to do a re-pack and new pads. Got the bearings cleaned and ready to re-assemble as soon as I get the new rear seals.

2) Replaced front sway bar bushings. The old ones were polyurethane, nothing wrong with them. but since I had the news ones, I installed them. (save the old ones)

3) Greased the 9 points on the front end and the 4 u-joints (F53)

4) Tightened exhaust header bolts. This is the first time I did this after installing new headers last summer. We put 7500 miles on it over the winter. I had a couple bolts loosen up and one bolt fell out.
__________________
1999 Fleetwood Southwind 35S (Ford F53 6.8L V10 275hp 4R100 4 spd trans) - Toad 2003 Saturn Vue.
(www.1999Southwind.com)

It won't do MACH 2, but I can get a sandwich and take a pee.
Waiter21 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2019, 10:38 PM   #4876
Senior Member
 
markarbogast's Avatar
 
Forest River Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 146
Blog Entries: 3
Installed a new toilet, floor flange, gasket, and water line. Also two new front tires.
__________________
Mark & Crystal Arbogast, Benny, Sonny and Daisy.
2007 Sportcoach Cross Country 38' DP, 2008 Detonator Jeep Wrangler, Readybrute Elite,
100w Marshall Plexi Stack, 1958 Les Paul R8,
markarbogast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2019, 07:07 AM   #4877
Senior Member
 
NHRA225's Avatar
 
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,174
Quote:
Originally Posted by D Gardiner View Post
A seal-solution for those of us with the older Gray color Pex tubing:

Had to remove the water heater the other day (another story) and noticed that the brittle original seals tore upon dis-assembly.

Looked online over the weekend for a replacement seal. Read a few different threads , such as: Replacing Water Plumbing Flair-it Swivel Seals. Lastly tried our local plumbing supply stores. Seems my only solution was to cutting off the old fitting and replace it with a Shark Bite.
Being frustrated I took the old seal to our local Ace Hardware. Spent 10 minutes in their plumbing section, and came up with a solution for our older 90's style gray Pex system.

I came across a Danco cone seal # 38807B that I was able to mill down to fit our old Pex brass ends. Clamped a hand drill to the bench, and chucked a 1/2" tube into the drill. Slid the seal onto the tube and set the drill to max. Then used my fine files to slowly mill out the new shape, using a dial caliper to measure my progress. It took approximately 8-10 minutes to slowly mill down each seal. Overall diameter .745" with a sleeve diameter of .622, giving me a wall thickness of .061 inches, and a washer compression thickness of .150. Detailed drawing below.
Note: Original heater pipe .ID to Pex fitting .OD clearance measures 0.57 inches. This gives the rubber some compression before the fitting is tightened down, while being easy to slip into the old Pex fitting.

Installed the seals using some dish soap as lubricant and tested for leaks. After two days under pressure I can report no water leaks at the water heater.

Below I have some pictures.
I thank You for the nice write-up- I'm currently replacing the Bath and Kit sink faucets and the original black rubber step seals are shot your write up save my day !
__________________
Chuck
Brownsburg Indiana
1992 American Eagle-8.3C-450hp
NHRA225 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2019, 08:27 PM   #4878
Senior Member
 
D Gardiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by NHRA225 View Post
I thank You for the nice write-up- I'm currently replacing the Bath and Kit sink faucets and the original black rubber step seals are shot your write up save my day !
You are very welcome.
__________________
Always bring your A game.
1996 Flair 29V
D Gardiner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2019, 09:10 PM   #4879
Senior Member
 
D Gardiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 138
P30 Wander

Have been chasing a lane wandering issue, on a straight road, with zero steering input, and minimal side wind, for a while now. Last week my mechanic found a slightly worn driver side bell crank. The bell crank had just a tiny wiggle in it. The lateral play measured out at just 0.007 thousands an inch, with zero up & down play. The mechanic and I both pretty much agreed that such a small movement could not be the problem, so I drove home. But, I kept having a nagging thought as I drove home. What IF?!

Now, we all know that the GM P3 service manual states there must be zero side play. So what to do? After debating with myself for a few days I broke down and ordered the Supersteer P3032 from Amazon. To be honest, I wasn't expecting the new part to make any real change in the handling at all. I mean, how could this minuscule amount of play could cause such an issue?

The part arrived Saturday and I replaced it today. Took her for a quick 2 mile test drive, and immediately noted that the wander was gone. I guess we were totally wrong, in our assessment! I'm completely dumbfounded at the difference in handling. Will definitely need to get her back in for an alignment, as the steering wheel moved 25-30° to the right. Can only imagine the toe setting is way off now.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	P3032 Bsm.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	890.8 KB
ID:	242196   Click image for larger version

Name:	P3032 Csm.jpg
Views:	22
Size:	842.9 KB
ID:	242197  

__________________
Always bring your A game.
1996 Flair 29V
D Gardiner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2019, 05:23 AM   #4880
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Millersville, Penna
Posts: 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by D Gardiner View Post
Have been chasing a lane wandering issue, on a straight road, with zero steering input, and minimal side wind, for a while now. Last week my mechanic found a slightly worn driver side bell crank. The bell crank had just a tiny wiggle in it. The lateral play measured out at just 0.007 thousands an inch, with zero up & down play. The mechanic and I both pretty much agreed that such a small movement could not be the problem, so I drove home. But, I kept having a nagging thought as I drove home. What IF?!

Now, we all know that the GM P3 service manual states there must be zero side play. So what to do? After debating with myself for a few days I broke down and ordered the Supersteer P3032 from Amazon. To be honest, I wasn't expecting the new part to make any real change in the handling at all. I mean, how could this minuscule amount of play could cause such an issue?

The part arrived Saturday and I replaced it today. Took her for a quick 2 mile test drive, and immediately noted that the wander was gone. I guess we were totally wrong, in our assessment! I'm completely dumbfounded at the difference in handling. Will definitely need to get her back in for an alignment, as the steering wheel moved 25-30° to the right. Can only imagine the toe setting is way off now.
.007 really isn't acceptable play in a steering box. .007 at the point of motion transfer translate to much more at the wheels. This is especially true in larger heavier vehicles. Glad you got you rig "straitened" out!
Harris
rcnuts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2019, 03:03 PM   #4881
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 131
Ta Day!

calking joints anywhere on RV are being cleaned out with new calking installed. Process will continue into tomorrow. After elastic waterproof calk has set for a few days will shine all exterior surfaces.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3373.JPG
Views:	16
Size:	175.8 KB
ID:	242308   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3375.JPG
Views:	17
Size:	117.5 KB
ID:	242309  

RM Art is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2019, 03:24 PM   #4882
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 20
I weigh 240 lbs. Will the aluminum roof on the 1989 Allegro that I hope to be buying very soon be able to safely support me for working on the roof, A/C, vents, and future solar panel installation? Should I use something like a sheet of plywood to spread my weight?
NF6X is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2019, 03:31 PM   #4883
Senior Member
 
otrt's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clovis, CA
Posts: 150
"Supersteer P3032 from Amazon"

I don't if this would work for my application (79 Dodge M50), but it looks so cool I want one!
__________________
79 30' Chieftain, 79 Pontiac Trans Am, 70 Chevelle Malibu RestoMod
otrt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2019, 03:53 PM   #4884
Senior Member
 
JBDISCOVERY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 522
Well, the old electrical ground problem showed its face

Turned the key on the other day to check things so we could go camping.
LOUD WRINGING NOISE FROM THE REAR OF THE COUCH. Knew right away what it was since I did replace the POWERGEAR motor for the Hyd jack system a couple of years ago.
Problem, how to determine was as wrong. Checked the solinode on the motor to see if it was stuck. No go.
Accessed the schematic on POWERGEAR'S wed site to see what the motor wiring was.
Checked the leads at the at the control panel in the coach cockpit. All checked out ok, except NO GROUND. Cut the ground wires, established a new ground, every thing worked ok.
Lession: electrical things that seem really nuts, usually have a simple solution.
Take care,
JimB
JBDISCOVERY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2019, 04:01 PM   #4885
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 131
Quote:
Originally Posted by NF6X View Post
I weigh 240 lbs. Will the aluminum roof on the 1989 Allegro that I hope to be buying very soon be able to safely support me for working on the roof, A/C, vents, and future solar panel installation? Should I use something like a sheet of plywood to spread my weight?
Yup!

To expand upon that word - LOL!!

I too register in the 240 to 250 lb. class. Walked my 1996 roof once with no plywood. Did not feel that was too smart. Now I have a couple of my workers weighing under 150 doing the calk repairs needed.
RM Art is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2019, 07:15 PM   #4886
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 4
I charged the A/C system and fixed some strange wiring the PO installed.
__________________

Toyman01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 6 (4 members and 2 guests)
Curtis in TX, olcarguy, RM Art, Soppy
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.