What did you do to your old RV today?

[THenne1713]

SO you have the training, assume you mean ATS, pull it out, inspect/tighten, clean/ file relay contacts and reinstall, and check for free movement and tight wires, good capacitors? Mayb not need $250, may just need some LOVE :-)

[Charlie and Martha]

Originally Posted by NF6X

Thanks for the feedback! The seller texted me that he'd rather knock $500 off the price after wrenching his back working on the cab A/C yesterday. I can't blame him for that! He's taking it in for a smog test on Monday, and hopefully I'll be driving it home before too long.

I don't know how long I'll be pouring money and work into it before it's solid for an uneventful trip. I have an annual vacation at the beginning of May. I'd like to have the Allegro all ready for next year's trip, but I'll rent an RV for this year's one. I know I'll need to do work on both the cab and roof A/C, and I may want to put new tires on it, too ($ouch). This weekend I'm bolting a 30A RV outlet on the side of my house. Regardless of buying the Allegro and whether that all happens before my trip, I'll want it there for plugging in the rental while I'm getting packed up anyway.

Almost all of the original plastic baggage door hold open hooks have broken off, and i think that replacing them will be one of the first things I'll do. I haven't made up my mind yet about using metal versions of the rectangular plastic ones that are on it, or magnetic catches, or just plain old T-shaped stainless steel trailer door hooks.

With the aluminum skin/roof and fiberglass chop end caps, would rubber well nuts work well for mounting things like baggage door hooks, a rear view camera, and even solar panels? I've used them on things like my aluminum-body HMMWV, and I've found them to be easy to use.

I saw Schrader valves on the side panels near the rear wheels, so I assume it has air bags. Would those have been original? It also has electric steps and an HWH hydraulic leveler system (!). I didn't test out the jacks at the seller's place, since I've read stories about them stranding people when they failed while down at a campground. So I figure I'll play with that at home with my tools handy before I try using it.

I'm more about function than form, so I won't mind if my new money pit doesn't look conventionally beautiful. But if some wax makes the end caps look less chalky, then that may be worth the effort. I'm new to all of this RV stuff. I have been lurking on forums like this one and watching lots of YouTube videos about RV stuff for a while, so at least I had an idea of what I was looking at on the Allegro.

I'm probably going to learn how to patch fiberglass eventually, because there's a crunchy hole at a bottom edge of the spare tire hatch. The wood reinforcement at the top of that hatch is also rotten, so I'll be replacing that. The spare is blown, so I plan to put something usable on there before the 100 mile drive home.

I love the little CRT monitor in the dash, but didn't try playing with it. Would that be a television, or just a monitor for a rear view camera (which doesn't appear to be present)? I've considered whether to pull out the TV and fill the hole with ham radio gear, or leave it in and bring along an old TRS-80 Color Computer for maximum silliness. A modern rear view camera with LCD monitor is on my to-do list. I'm debating between rear view only vs. a three camera setup with side cameras. Said list is very long, and it'll probably take years to afford everything on it!

Once I get my RV (almost certainly this Allegro, but if not, something else within the next year or three), I'll start a new thread for it. It's cool to find other Allegro folks here.

I'd opt for some 2 meter gear.

[Waiter21]

Good weekend to work on the Southwind:

1) Removed both front wheels / brakes to do a re-pack and new pads. Got the bearings cleaned and ready to re-assemble as soon as I get the new rear seals.

2) Replaced front sway bar bushings. The old ones were polyurethane, nothing wrong with them. but since I had the news ones, I installed them. (save the old ones)

3) Greased the 9 points on the front end and the 4 u-joints (F53)

4) Tightened exhaust header bolts. This is the first time I did this after installing new headers last summer. We put 7500 miles on it over the winter. I had a couple bolts loosen up and one bolt fell out.

[markarbogast]

Installed a new toilet, floor flange, gasket, and water line. Also two new front tires.

[NHRA225]

Originally Posted by D Gardiner

A seal-solution for those of us with the older Gray color Pex tubing:

Had to remove the water heater the other day (another story) and noticed that the brittle original seals tore upon dis-assembly.

Looked online over the weekend for a replacement seal. Read a few different threads , such as: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/repl...ls-413034.html. Lastly tried our local plumbing supply stores. Seems my only solution was to cutting off the old fitting and replace it with a Shark Bite.
Being frustrated I took the old seal to our local Ace Hardware. Spent 10 minutes in their plumbing section, and came up with a solution for our older 90's style gray Pex system.

I came across a Danco cone seal # 38807B that I was able to mill down to fit our old Pex brass ends. Clamped a hand drill to the bench, and chucked a 1/2" tube into the drill. Slid the seal onto the tube and set the drill to max. Then used my fine files to slowly mill out the new shape, using a dial caliper to measure my progress. It took approximately 8-10 minutes to slowly mill down each seal. Overall diameter .745" with a sleeve diameter of .622, giving me a wall thickness of .061 inches, and a washer compression thickness of .150. Detailed drawing below.
Note: Original heater pipe .ID to Pex fitting .OD clearance measures 0.57 inches. This gives the rubber some compression before the fitting is tightened down, while being easy to slip into the old Pex fitting.

Installed the seals using some dish soap as lubricant and tested for leaks. After two days under pressure I can report no water leaks at the water heater.

Below I have some pictures.

I thank You for the nice write-up- I'm currently replacing the Bath and Kit sink faucets and the original black rubber step seals are shot your write up save my day !

[D Gardiner]

Originally Posted by NHRA225

I thank You for the nice write-up- I'm currently replacing the Bath and Kit sink faucets and the original black rubber step seals are shot your write up save my day !

You are very welcome.

[D Gardiner]

Have been chasing a lane wandering issue, on a straight road, with zero steering input, and minimal side wind, for a while now. Last week my mechanic found a slightly worn driver side bell crank. The bell crank had just a tiny wiggle in it. The lateral play measured out at just 0.007 thousands an inch, with zero up & down play. The mechanic and I both pretty much agreed that such a small movement could not be the problem, so I drove home. But, I kept having a nagging thought as I drove home. What IF?!

Now, we all know that the GM P3 service manual states there must be zero side play. So what to do? After debating with myself for a few days I broke down and ordered the Supersteer P3032 from Amazon. To be honest, I wasn't expecting the new part to make any real change in the handling at all. I mean, how could this minuscule amount of play could cause such an issue?

The part arrived Saturday and I replaced it today. Took her for a quick 2 mile test drive, and immediately noted that the wander was gone. I guess we were totally wrong, in our assessment! I'm completely dumbfounded at the difference in handling. Will definitely need to get her back in for an alignment, as the steering wheel moved 25-30° to the right. Can only imagine the toe setting is way off now.

[rcnuts]

Originally Posted by D Gardiner

Have been chasing a lane wandering issue, on a straight road, with zero steering input, and minimal side wind, for a while now. Last week my mechanic found a slightly worn driver side bell crank. The bell crank had just a tiny wiggle in it. The lateral play measured out at just 0.007 thousands an inch, with zero up & down play. The mechanic and I both pretty much agreed that such a small movement could not be the problem, so I drove home. But, I kept having a nagging thought as I drove home. What IF?!

Now, we all know that the GM P3 service manual states there must be zero side play. So what to do? After debating with myself for a few days I broke down and ordered the Supersteer P3032 from Amazon. To be honest, I wasn't expecting the new part to make any real change in the handling at all. I mean, how could this minuscule amount of play could cause such an issue?

The part arrived Saturday and I replaced it today. Took her for a quick 2 mile test drive, and immediately noted that the wander was gone. I guess we were totally wrong, in our assessment! I'm completely dumbfounded at the difference in handling. Will definitely need to get her back in for an alignment, as the steering wheel moved 25-30° to the right. Can only imagine the toe setting is way off now.

.007 really isn't acceptable play in a steering box. .007 at the point of motion transfer translate to much more at the wheels. This is especially true in larger heavier vehicles. Glad you got you rig "straitened" out!
Harris

[RM Art]

Ta Day!

calking joints anywhere on RV are being cleaned out with new calking installed. Process will continue into tomorrow. After elastic waterproof calk has set for a few days will shine all exterior surfaces.

[NF6X]

I weigh 240 lbs. Will the aluminum roof on the 1989 Allegro that I hope to be buying very soon be able to safely support me for working on the roof, A/C, vents, and future solar panel installation? Should I use something like a sheet of plywood to spread my weight?

[otrt]

"Supersteer P3032 from Amazon"

I don't if this would work for my application (79 Dodge M50), but it looks so cool I want one!

[JBDISCOVERY]

Turned the key on the other day to check things so we could go camping.
LOUD WRINGING NOISE FROM THE REAR OF THE COUCH. Knew right away what it was since I did replace the POWERGEAR motor for the Hyd jack system a couple of years ago.
Problem, how to determine was as wrong. Checked the solinode on the motor to see if it was stuck. No go.
Accessed the schematic on POWERGEAR'S wed site to see what the motor wiring was.
Checked the leads at the at the control panel in the coach cockpit. All checked out ok, except NO GROUND. Cut the ground wires, established a new ground, every thing worked ok.
Lession: electrical things that seem really nuts, usually have a simple solution.
Take care,
JimB

[RM Art]

Originally Posted by NF6X

I weigh 240 lbs. Will the aluminum roof on the 1989 Allegro that I hope to be buying very soon be able to safely support me for working on the roof, A/C, vents, and future solar panel installation? Should I use something like a sheet of plywood to spread my weight?

Yup!

To expand upon that word - LOL!!

I too register in the 240 to 250 lb. class. Walked my 1996 roof once with no plywood. Did not feel that was too smart. Now I have a couple of my workers weighing under 150 doing the calk repairs needed.

[Toyman01]

I charged the A/C system and fixed some strange wiring the PO installed.