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Old 09-15-2017, 10:15 PM   #1
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What in God's name??

Ok, so it got way too hot after finding out my faucet pipe was split apart and bathroom sinks leaks as well and that is as far as I got where trying to "learn" the water system.
Fast forward all these months later and I go to look again to see what I should or shouldn't need in order to fix the pipe and I realize this:
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Would this be my water pump or hot water tank and is this seriously the way a 138 thousand dollar RV was plumbed in 92??
Should I tear out that brown paper looking stuff to see whats behind it or just vacuum out the obvious dusty mess and leave the rest?
The mold would be from the 2 or 3 cups of water that flowed out of the split sink pipe before I could get the spigot off.
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:17 PM   #2
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Hot water tank. Cardboard is covering the insulation.
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Old 09-16-2017, 07:18 AM   #3
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Thats just old school crimp style pex plumbing. If it freezes its suppose to expand without breaking. Its all original.
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Old 09-16-2017, 08:31 AM   #4
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Presumably the turn knobs are all in the on position considering water came pouring out.....
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Old 09-16-2017, 08:59 AM   #5
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If it's not leaking I'd leave it alone and occasionally check it.

OTOH, if it bothers you, take off the cardboard and insulation and redo it with something from the home center, probably a water heater jacket. Unfortunately, to do it right you'll have to remove the unit first.
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Old 09-16-2017, 09:54 AM   #6
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The valve on the vertical pipe needs to be turned off. Right now half the water is by passing the water heater .
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Old 09-16-2017, 11:15 AM   #7
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The valve on the vertical pipe needs to be turned off. Right now half the water is by passing the water heater .
Ok. So when I turn that valve, is there something I should be listening for where the heater is concerned?
I have typed my fingers bloody (JK!) trying to find a simple bit of instructions for "watering" your system for the first time in years and no one seems to have made a first do this, then put a hose in that, then flip that switch, etc.
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Old 09-16-2017, 12:31 PM   #8
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The piping you see is for winterizing your rig. You turn the vertical one on (as it is now) so the antifreeze doesn't go into the water heater. It called a bypass valve.
Have you ever drained the water heater by removing the plug on the front? If so, the heater is still empty because of the bypass valve being on.
That being said, when you open that valve you should hear water going into the tank (easiest to use city water setting). Open the pressure valve at the top of the tank (on the front) to let water out as it fills. When water starts coming out, close the pressure valve and let the system continue to fill the tank until it stops and then you'll have the pressure bubble of air at the top of the tank.
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Old 09-16-2017, 12:36 PM   #9
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Have you ever drained the water heater by removing the plug on the front?
I've done nothing but drive the unit home in March.
I think I better call out one of those mobile services to come run me thru it all in person.
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Old 09-16-2017, 04:10 PM   #10
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I've been following your posts and I thought you were moving along with this project. Have you filled the water tank yet? I mean it's not hard to figure out, especially with the support you get here. Turn the vertical handle, remove the bottom drain plug on the water heater (there is removable door on the outside usually) and drain what is in it. Attach your fill hose from the coach to the spigot and make sure the plumbing is in "city water" position and then let it rip. City water bypasses the tank and "charges" the plumbing from the spigot. So it will fill the pipes and also flush out the lines and drain it from the drain plug removed from the hot water tank. Then you put the plug back in the hot water tank and open the pressure valve at the top and let it fill the tank. Follow the instructions I gave above.
This isn't rocket science.
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Old 09-17-2017, 05:42 AM   #11
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This is an article that talks/shows how to set your water heater valves

https://dutcheagle.com/rv/2015/11/16...bypass-valves/

Here is a video showing how to clean your tank



Now to the 2 black hoses connected to the tank. You have a heater exchanger water heater where the engine coolant is circulated around the outside of the tank. This will keep the water in your tank hot while you are driving.

As long as you do not have water leaking, I would just clean it up, and close the door.
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Old 09-17-2017, 06:07 AM   #12
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As long as you do not have water leaking, I would just clean it up, and close the door.
agree with veraken, the plumbing you have is called quest polybutylene piping.
google it and read about class action suits involving this plumbing,then decide for yourself how much you want to do as the piping was pulled off the market several years ago, so don't assume that pieces are readily available, except sharkbite fittings, they work well for needed repairs.

edit
use caution as those shut off valves are notorious for not shutting water off,(the seats inside the valve break off).
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:09 AM   #13
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And keep in mind that the 3 WH winterizing valves should never all be in the same position (they way they are now). Handles aligned with hose means open; handles perpendicular to hoses mean closed. For normal use, the "in" & "out" valves should be open and the center bypass valve should be closed. Opposite for winterizing.
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Old 09-17-2017, 01:26 PM   #14
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I've been following your posts and I thought you were moving along with this project. Have you filled the water tank yet? I mean it's not hard to figure out, especially with the support you get here. Turn the vertical handle, remove the bottom drain plug on the water heater (there is removable door on the outside usually) and drain what is in it. Attach your fill hose from the coach to the spigot and make sure the plumbing is in "city water" position and then let it rip. City water bypasses the tank and "charges" the plumbing from the spigot. So it will fill the pipes and also flush out the lines and drain it from the drain plug removed from the hot water tank. Then you put the plug back in the hot water tank and open the pressure valve at the top and let it fill the tank. Follow the instructions I gave above.
This isn't rocket science.

It kinda is when you are dealing with no pain management for a broken back, a mentally challenged adult son and a job that gives you the work of 2-3 people.
When I had the guy come before our heat wave to make a go of learning it, we found faucets in the on position in both kitchen and bath resulting in quickly shutting the process down. I don't even recall where he hooked the hose up to; inside the panel leading to the item in the photo or way in the back of the unit which would presumably lead to filling the tank under the bed.
I have been piddling around with things just not much at a time.
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