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Old 05-28-2012, 02:53 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by elmorc View Post
I have valves like that on mine, you pull them up to open they do not turn.
WOW, that works, you would think the handle would have "Pull" stamped on it. Another problem solved by this forum, THANK YOU
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:02 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
WOW, that works, you would think the handle would have "Pull" stamped on it. Another problem solved by this forum, THANK YOU
Pull it up, who woulda thought that???

We got the plumbing figured out, we don't know it the water heater works until I get LP in the tank
We got the electric figured out
Today we finished painting the interior up to the bedroom, it really made the place look fresh and bright, now she wants a diff color in the bedroom.
We gotta finish the bathroom floor, (again), and install the vanity, toilet and the ceiling corner vent fan.
While we were painting, I removed the under counter coffe maker to paint that back wall and that really opened it up and made the space look bigger, we are not gonna put it back, I will get a little 4 cup coffee mate.
I really want to install the wood floor next, but I gotta get some help to remove the couch first. Do they normally fit thru the door??
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:53 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Bilito View Post
to remove the couch first. Do they normally fit thru the door??
If it's the original furniture it probably comes apart.

On edit: if it's not original then it probably fits through the door
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:18 PM   #18
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Our old class C had same type valves. Pull up while holding down on the lines. Keep in mind that the distance traveled is only about a 1/4"
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:36 PM   #19
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If it's the original furniture it probably comes apart.

On edit: if it's not original then it probably fits through the door
We got the couch off the flloor and laid it across the dinette seats, I can do the whole floor with it there. The picture makes it look precarious but it is not.
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:03 PM   #20
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We got the couch off the flloor and laid it across the dinette seats, I can do the whole floor with it there. The picture makes it look precarious but it is not.
Pulled the remaining carpet after the couch was removed and wouldn't you know it, found some wet rotted floor right behind the driver seat. I looked on the roof where the front cab meets the roof and right where the the AC condensate drips off the roof I found a opening missing caulk unseen from the roof but visable from a ladder which I promply dried up and caulked, also found some cracked caulking on a trim line just under that roof area where the wall meets the roof and I recaulked that too.
The pic is the floor area inside the rv, spent all day working on it and have the floor repair almost completed, while getting that bad wood out I leaned on the bottom of the wall and it was soft. A little prodding at the bottom and found it was also wet and starting to rot. now I gotta see how far up it goes but I will finish the floor first, guess that hole in the roof was letting the ac drain into the wall,.
Has anyone come up with a sure fire way to drain AC condensate except out on the roof to let it drip where ever it wants to drip
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:12 PM   #21
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Has anyone come up with a sure fire way to drain AC condensate except out on the roof to let it drip where ever it wants to drip

The gutters on your roof should at least be directing the condensate water fore or aft- you can then use gutter extensions to keep the water from running straight down the side of the RV.If the gutters aren't working, you may want to inspect them for crud or caulk. They're not big enough to handle rain, but they should be able to channel all the water from the ACsIf you want the condensate to come out a tube or something, you'll have to rebuild the drip pan under the air conditioner itself.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:40 PM   #22
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Has anyone come up with a sure fire way to drain AC condensate except out on the roof to let it drip where ever it wants to drip

The gutters on your roof should at least be directing the condensate water fore or aft- you can then use gutter extensions to keep the water from running straight down the side of the RV.If the gutters aren't working, you may want to inspect them for crud or caulk. They're not big enough to handle rain, but they should be able to channel all the water from the ACsIf you want the condensate to come out a tube or something, you'll have to rebuild the drip pan under the air conditioner itself.
It seems like a poor design to me, have they done any better on the newer RV's? when I am working inside on a rainy or muggy day the air conditioner will sometimes drip into the rv as well the outside. My sister used to RV a lot and she told me to always have small bucket handy in case it drips.

The floor is all patched, filled the seams with epoxy resin, still gotta sand it all smooth before I start on the floor. It is just a crappy rainy day today,
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:09 PM   #23
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Ya know...You keep asking that question as to "whats Next".. Gotta stop using that Phrase...Don't use whats next. I like ok baby hows it going better as i place my hands over the steering wheel. I have less trouble that way. They act like woman so treat it like one....Just my 2 cents.......
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:57 AM   #24
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I wonder why you couldn't add a tube to the AC, is there a tube in it somewhere, then attach it down the side of the RV so the water drains on the ground. It seems wierd they would just let that water run down the sides of expensive TT's and motorhomes.
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:50 PM   #25
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Pulled the remaining carpet after the couch was removed and wouldn't you know it, found some wet rotted floor right behind the driver seat. I looked on the roof where the front cab meets the roof and right where the the AC condensate drips off the roof I found a opening missing caulk unseen from the roof but visable from a ladder which I promply dried up and caulked, also found some cracked caulking on a trim line just under that roof area where the wall meets the roof and I recaulked that too.
The pic is the floor area inside the rv, spent all day working on it and have the floor repair almost completed, while getting that bad wood out I leaned on the bottom of the wall and it was soft. A little prodding at the bottom and found it was also wet and starting to rot. now I gotta see how far up it goes but I will finish the floor first, guess that hole in the roof was letting the ac drain into the wall,.
Has anyone come up with a sure fire way to drain AC condensate except out on the roof to let it drip where ever it wants to drip
This unexpected rot repair is finally finished
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