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Old 04-09-2012, 08:45 AM   #15
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Lemme add another issue to the debate. Many of the refiners have significantly reduced the ZDDP (Zinc) additive used in their oils, and there are lots of anecdotal comments about valve train failure in flat tappet engines. The tappet / lifter is what rubs on the camshaft lobes to open the intake and exhaust valves, and this location has very high rubbing pressure. Many newer engines use roller tappets to reduce friction, and get that slight increase in fuel mileage that the manufacturers most continually search for, and these designs don't have the wear problem.

The bottom line is that the oil that previously worked just fine in your older, flat tappet, engine may not be so good now. I know that Mobil 1 reduced ZDDP in everything but their 15-50, racing, and motorcycle oils. I use Mobil 1 10-30 in my 1999 roller tappet Safari Trek engine, but use 15-50 in two older flat tappet Alfa Romeos.

Just for your own information, mention the flat tappet failure issue at the parts counter of your favorite NAPA store
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:08 AM   #16
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Hi George,

You are correct about the flat tappet problems that drivers are experiencing with the modern oils. The most harmed engines are those in classic cars. I'm not aware of any problems in motorhome engines.

This is why it is very important to follow the current recommendations of the engine manufacturer. Use the correct viscosity, the correct API category, and any other oil specification they list.

This is why AMSOIL, in May 2011, formulated a special synthetic oil for those type of engines called Z-ROD, formulated with much higher ZDDP to protect those engines from wear and also have a boosted anti rust inhibitor because typically classic cars are store more than daily drivers.

As vehicles and oil become more and more specialized, their is no longer a universal motor oil that is the best for all applications. The oil that was the best choice a few years ago, may not be the best choice today. Marine oils, motorcycle oils, diesel engine oils, classic car oils, race oils, small engine oils, passenger car oils, etc., all have special needs and are formulated and tested differently. I can help with questions.
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:31 AM   #17
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Hello,

I recently acquired a coach with the P-30/454 combo. It's a 1985 but only 20k on the crate 454.

Any recommendations for oil? I have learned from other low tolerance engines how important getting the "right" oil for the engine and usage is. Heck, the 454 that was born 10 years ago to go in a mh has a subtle but different requirement than a 454 that came in a car 40 years ago.

I have used Seafoam and Rotella to help clean engines and Mobil 1 or Purple once I felt that all hydraulic lifters and tiny oli passges has cleaned out their gunk and wasn't carrying anymore sludge.

But because of the constant load, low revs etc, I'm curious to know what others have found success with.

(I love an oil thread - it's like asking what folks think about sex, politics and religion all at once... )

Thanks,
-Stu
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:00 AM   #18
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Stu,

I have a 1999 454 Vortec engine and am using Mobil 1 10-30. As I mentioned in an earlier post, there is said to be some valve trail wear issues with flat tappet engines using the new oils with reduced Zinc (ZDDP) additives. My 454 is a roller tappet engine, so I'm not worried about the reduced ZDDP in Mobil 1 10-30. I still change this at the GM recommended intervals rather than the Mobil 1 extended interval.

There are some excellent oils available from other than popular suppliers (Amsoil, Red Line, Royal Purple, Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs) but I prefer to use a premium brand that is readily available. Mobil 1 can be bought at any WalMart or KMart.

I have read that the machining and tolerances on contemporary engines is far more accurate than in the past, and that this supports the use of 5-20, and other "thin" oils. A good friend who worked in Ford engineering and racing told me that these oils are really used just for the slight mileage increase. The "CAFE" (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) numbers are monitored by the government down to small fractions of MPG, and the manufacturers will do anything to better this number. That's why we see things like electric power steering pumps; they only work when you turn the wheel, so the constant drag of a hydraulic pump is eliminated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Angel2411 View Post
Hello,

I recently acquired a coach with the P-30/454 combo. It's a 1985 but only 20k on the crate 454.

Any recommendations for oil? I have learned from other low tolerance engines how important getting the "right" oil for the engine and usage is. Heck, the 454 that was born 10 years ago to go in a mh has a subtle but different requirement than a 454 that came in a car 40 years ago.

I have used Seafoam and Rotella to help clean engines and Mobil 1 or Purple once I felt that all hydraulic lifters and tiny oli passges has cleaned out their gunk and wasn't carrying anymore sludge.

But because of the constant load, low revs etc, I'm curious to know what others have found success with.

(I love an oil thread - it's like asking what folks think about sex, politics and religion all at once... )

Thanks,
-Stu
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1995 Safari TREK 2630, 1983 Winnebago Chieftain, 1976 Midas Mini
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:08 AM   #19
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Please double check the 8th character of you VIN to make sure it is a W. I pulled up this info from the AMSOIL website and it shows Chevy's oil requirements and AMSOIL's recommendation.

1985 CHEVROLET TRUCKS SUBURBAN 7.4L 8-cyl Engine Code [W]
LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS:
Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
Maximum Performance SAE 10W-30 Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (ATMQT) (recommended/warranted for up to 15,000 severe motorhome miles or 1 year whichever comes first)
Performance Plus XL 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLTQT) (recommended/warranted for up to 10,000 motorhome miles, or 6 months, whichever is first).
Performance Synthetic 10W30 OE Motor Oil (OETQT) (recommended/warranted for OEM recommended oil change intervals) Above 10 F......15W-40
Above 0 F......10W-30 [1]
Above 19 F......20W-20
Below 61 F......5W-30

[1] SAE 10W-30 is preferred.

FILTERS:
Oil Filter 25,000-Mile Ea Oil Filter (EAO24) (recommended for up to 15,000 motorhome miles or 1 year, whichever is first)
Oil Filter WIX 51061 Oil Filter (recommended for up to 10,000 motorhome miles, or 6 months, whichever is first)
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:46 AM   #20
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Confirmed - My eighth chracter is a W;

Thanks very much - very helpful stuff.... My take away is that 10W-30 is the best all season even though other viscosities are mentioned.

Thanks,
-Stu
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:59 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angel2411 View Post
Confirmed - My eighth chracter is a W;

Thanks very much - very helpful stuff.... My take away is that 10W-30 is the best all seaon even though other viscosities are mentioned.

Thanks,
-Stu
You are welcome and correct. Especially if it is a full chemical synthetic oil. And you will get better fuel economy.
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:12 PM   #22
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just to give my two bits worth .. I have several ford diesel's ..a couple of Old Harleys ..cars and a diesel boat ..ALL run on 15-40 Rotella diesel oil ..my understanding that it still has the Zink at better levels then most oils without the higher cost ,my motors have all survived over 400,000 kilometers so far ..but I do believe any quality oil and regular changes are more important..my "new to me " Itasca M-H will get acouple of back to back 500 mile oil changes ..front to back ..engine .trans .rear-end .. and a break flush just so I know it's clean and every thing is greased .....
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