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Old 07-26-2016, 04:28 PM   #15
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Sorry its been awhile since I posted on this thread, other things taking up time, but I got back into it last saturday (7/23)I found a loose wire that was once connected to one of the thermostat post and put it back, this caused the check engine light to go out, go figure. So I have tried everything except replacing the actual radiator to fix my over heating problem in my 1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow, aka P30 or as it says in the VIN p37, it has a 454 engine in it and what I hope to find from you good people is how I can get a replacement radiator. Yes it seems that this has got to be it as its the only thing left that has not been replaced.
I have looked over the web and found many references to replacing the radiator in this couch, but never a part number or a place that will have one. I even looked into Orilieys auto parts as I found several posts on other forums that one can be had from then for around 2 bills.
If anyone has done this on the P30, and because of its age I’m sure that someone must of replaced a radiator by now, and knows how to get it out, which I think has to be done from underneath and most of all a part number or a place on line where I can get a new one you will help save an upcoming vacation. As always thanks for the help

Tony
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:54 AM   #16
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It depends on your coach builder on how they incorporated the chassis. On my '89 Winnebago Elanadan the radiator could be removed through the front of the vehicle after all of the body panels and the AC condenser are removed. The radiator sits in a bracket on the frame which goes around the radiator and is split on the sides and the top part comes off. You might find some pictures of it in my renovation thread pages 8-9 where I remove the cab. Let me know if you want pictures of any of the parts - some of them are put in deep storage by now, but I might be able to get to them.

Once out, radiator itself should be fairly easy to match up to a 1991 P30 MH chassis radiator or you can get it re-cored. Assuming Fleetwood didn't swap it out, the radiator came as part of the frame assembly from the factory. RockAuto lists it as APDI/PRO 8011544 for $277, and it was used in P30s for a number of years.

My advice - before you remove the radiator, be ABSOLUTELY sure that you need to! It's not a weekend project. I left it in place until I removed the cab. I weighed the risk of damage to it to be less than the difficulty of removing it before lifting the cab off.

Good luck!
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Old 07-27-2016, 06:59 AM   #17
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Tony,

Did you ever get it pressure tested? I read through this thread quickly and may have missed it.

I had an overheating problem that started to develop on our 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee (5.7L Hemi engine). I know. Different engine, but they all have the same basic components. The problem was a small leak at the shaft of the water pump. While going down the road, under pressure, a small amount of fluid would leak out and instantly turn into water vapor. So, we never saw any drips under the vehicle.

Also, loose clamps on any of the water hoses, heater hoses, etc. can be an issue. Again, pressure test?

Just some more thoughts...
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Old 07-27-2016, 05:06 PM   #18
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No, actually thats something I did not do. I pressure tested the cap only. Is that something that can be done at "orileys or dose a radiator shop need to do this? Thanks for your reply Charles.

Tony
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Old 07-27-2016, 05:20 PM   #19
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So, and this is assumption Erik, my books from the po state that its built on a ford step van chassie. Sooooo, i'd be looking for a radiator that fits a Ford 92 step Van with a 454. Which if I remember my teenage tinkering is a Chev big block.
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Old 07-27-2016, 05:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
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No, actually thats something I did not do. I pressure tested the cap only. Is that something that can be done at "orileys or dose a radiator shop need to do this? Thanks for your reply Charles.

Tony
Please re-read posts #2, #5, and #7. Note their comments about pressure testing. The auto parts store might lend out the tool. I don't know for sure. I would expect that a radiator shop would have one.

Anyone else here know where Tony can find a pressure tester?
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Old 07-27-2016, 05:31 PM   #21
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about 6-8 years ago i pulled my radiator and had it recored. At the time it was $450. It took about 8 hours to pull and about 6 to put it back in. It took all of my overheating problems away.
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Old 07-28-2016, 04:41 PM   #22
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Hi Buddy,
Re the loose wire on the thermostat.....the earth or ground wire for the ECU is connected to one of the thermostat studs. I ran an extra wire from there straight to my Battery Negative just to be sure the ECU get a good earth.
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:09 PM   #23
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So, and this is assumption Erik, my books from the po state that its built on a ford step van chassie. Sooooo, i'd be looking for a radiator that fits a Ford 92 step Van with a 454. Which if I remember my teenage tinkering is a Chev big block.
You most definitely do not have a Ford chassis and a Chevy motor! Most manuals have both listed, because they (the manufactures) use both chassis!
I would find a good radiator shop near your home, and take the MH to them and have them pressure test the system, since you are not comfortable doing that, or you would have done it already. You are asking for advice, and have gotten some very good advice, but ignoring the most important thing! Once the system has been pressure tested, then the shop can determine if you need a new radiator, just a good flush, or a re-core?
My money is on the water pump leaking and/or the clutch fan! Rail!
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:09 AM   #24
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Are you POSITIVE that you do not have a cracked head? Would do everything you say is happening. If I understand right, you say cannot be a head, because you do not smell it? Before you spend big bucks on a radiator replacement, I would be sure it is not a head.
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:40 AM   #25
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Be careful here as you are not sure and we are not sure of your knowledge or abilities.

Many places that charge for work pay little so they have folks who are pros and not too sharp neither.

That results in expensive repairs from wasted labor from tossing parts in the hope of a repair.

This issue is stupid simple to a trained pro who knows what they are doing and can get their hands on it.

Compression tests can verify if a head gasket is blown out but not certify they are good.

Many other things can be done as well to determine issues.

And brand new parts also cab fail.

Most common culprit is a weak seal in the water pump that only leaks when under pressure so no puddle seen usually.

Simple pressure test and 5 minutes shows that one and a fan clutch can be checked by hand and if water pump changed maybe do fan clutch too since it is already removed.

Our jeep has been consuming water.

First the recovery tank that was cracked and cap that had bad valve were replaced and all well.

Later swapped heater valve and just yesterday after a month observed puddle.

All looks good and pressure test good what the heck?

Started engine which caused heater valve to move then a spray of water from shaft seal...

Simple stuff but a pain unless you can take the time to look for it.

If you have some on else do the work and they suggest large amount get a second opinion.
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Old 07-29-2016, 12:18 PM   #26
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Before replacing the radiator, have the cooling system pressurized. While maintaining that pressure look at the following:

1. Look around on all cooling hoses including (2)heater hoses.
2. Look on freeze plugs, including at the rear of the engine specially between the engine block and flywheel.
3. Look at the bottom and around on the water pump.
4. Look on the By-pass pipe for wear.

Since you said two spark plug fouled, what cylinder did the plug came out? Don't forget to check the intake manifold gasket too if you're still loosing coolant.
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Old 07-29-2016, 03:11 PM   #27
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bring it to auto zone. they will pressurize your coolant system for free. i would call first
to make sure they have the tool. then go from there. i would check your oil level before you run the engine anymore. if you have antifreeze in your oil . it will eat your bearings
in your engine. make sure it's not over full.
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Old 07-30-2016, 02:24 AM   #28
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I have a 1988 Itasca with the 454. Was also a mechanic and Shop Foreman in a City of Phoenix auto shop. I do have some experience with overheating problems.
First question: Do you hear the fan clutch engaging when you are past 200 degrees?
It should be very noticeable as it makes a loud roaring sound when engaged. I installed an AutoZone heavy duty fan clutch and it works fine, but per the factory that made this it engages at 195 degrees. This is also the temperature of the original thermostat so the fan clutch and thermostat were always engaging. I replaced my 195 degree thermostat with a 180 degrees. Now the thermostat opens before the fan clutch engages which helps out with power and has increased the average fuel mileage but just over 1 mpg.
Question #2: Have you inspected the belt(s)? These can slip or be worn out or cracked.
#3: Have you changed the coolant and flush the system, including removing the pipe plugs from the sides of the block? These can be a little hard to get at and may not drain the block when they are removed. There most of the time is hard debris still in the hole for the plug so run a screwdriver into the holes to break this debris so the block will drain. I run water in these holes to clean out the block when possible.
#4: Have you looked between the fins on the radiator for debris? Bugs and vegetation will restrict the air flow thru the radiator. If you loosen the a/c condenser you may find it plugged.
#5: Have you looked at the temperature sensor in the head? The debris can also build up around it and sometimes an incorrect sensor the a longer tip will be installed which puts the tip very close to the head above the combustion chamber. I installed aftermarket gauges and drilled and tapped the intake manifold next to the thermostat housing. Now I get a truer reading, checked with a DVOM with thermo-couple.
If the above does not make a change you probably will have to pull the radiator. I bought a new radiator for mine as the fins were coming loose from the tubes in the radiator.
I can pull the mountain grades and the temperature will only climb to 200 degrees. I also on the very steep grades shift down to second and back out of the throttle so I maintain about 2,700 engine rpm. This helps keep the temp. down and also raises engine vacuum (I have a gauge) so fuel mileage is also a little better.
Another couple of things to do is make sure the shroud for the electric and mechanical fans are in good condition. I also sealed the area around the radiator in front so the air is forced thru the radiator rather the around the sides.
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