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Old 08-16-2013, 01:33 PM   #1
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Windows leaking

I'm very new to RV's and just purchased a 1990 Coachmen Classic 310MB that has some leaks I need to stop before we get some rain. The previous owner had a stack of receipts for work he had done, on one of them it mentioned the rear window having an internal leak. I was wondering exactly what that meant because the shop wouldn't fix it and said it has to go to a glass shop. Would it be leaking around seals like here? http://i.imgur.com/XSBQu9m.jpg I also have some exterior trim that needs to be repaired (http://i.imgur.com/3keZOKo.jpg), I believe it may have been the source of a large leak behind the driver seat if the water had gotten in there and traveled up the wall. Could most of my leaky woes be caused by a few of those seals shrinking or possibly around the main seal between the window and wall? Thanks in advance for any advice.


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Old 08-16-2013, 02:28 PM   #2
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OK lets start with the window. The rubber trim probably isn't the source of the leak. You should be able to push it back into place with a flathead screw driver and trip to keep the opening gap at the top middle of the window if possible. It's not difficult and takes a few minutes. As for the leaky window your best bet is to take the window out by removing the screws behind the trim. Clean the surface well and when you put the window back put butyl tape (at any RV parts dept.) around it and fasten it back into place. Once done put a bead of caulk (RV caulking) around the window and it should be good, unless the water is coming in someplace else. Hose test it. The other trim looks like it is running in a metal track??? If so you can also buy that at any RV parts store and it can be replaced. Before replacing that make sure you clean where the screws are and seal with Pro Flex liquid (qt size can) and then replace the plastic stripping. If you haven't already done so you may want to reseal all seams on the roof and sidewalls. I use Pro Flex liquid for flat seams and tube of Pro Flex for sidewalls. It's less expensive than other tapes or sealers and works great. I use it every year on all roof edges and have never had a leak after I have applied it. I hope this helps.


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Old 08-28-2013, 05:37 PM   #3
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Thank you for the info. I've sealed up the troublesome windows but intend on finishing them all this year since it is 24 years old after all. It was a fairly easy job but two things helped to make it a breeze.

Using the proper bit was a huge step in removing the inner ring, mine has screws that will take both a phillips and a square type bit. Difficulty with the phillips bit disappeared when I found the square bit.

The other bit I learned was not to let the butyl tape sit over night untrimmed, it tends to stick very well to the wall over time making it difficult even with a razor blade to remove the excess the next day.

The trim is actually a black piece of aluminum that holds all of the basement doors, if anyone's had any experience reattaching them I haven't got many ideas other than addressing the main issue of wood rot that caused it in the first place. That'll be a project for another week though as I'm engulfed in repairing the main entrance stairs now.

Thanks for the advice, it was very helpful

1990 Coachmen Classic 310MB
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:14 PM   #4
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Resealing windows

On our 1990 HiLo we removed every window and resealed with butyl tape and Lexel caulk. This gave us the opportunity to see if we had any interior wall damage. You Tube has a video on how to remove windows and reseal. It is my belief that on a RV of your vintage all the windows need to be taken out and resealed. It will pay big dividends in preventing interior wall water damage. Yes,it is a lot of work.
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:13 PM   #5
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Leak problems I have found

I am in the process of totally re-doing the outside of my '89 Gulf Stream Classic. It had wood rot on the outside under the skin, and I had a hard time figuring out where the water got in at. One area that rotted was behind the driver's door, and underneath it, also. I found that the sealer behind the door frame aluminum at the top had separated from the skin just enough to let water into the door frame. From there it spread out and down and rotted about 25 sq. ft. of plywood skin, which I ended up having to replace. That was the last place I looked for leaks, and it wasn't obvious at first even when I did find it. Other areas that caused problems were below or next to the molding strips that cover the seams in the skin. They are screwed into "nothing" basically, and moisture starts seeping into the wood along those, also. I eliminated all of them by fiberglassing all the seams together to make one big smooth skin, but had to replace a lot of plywood before I could proceed. Now the only trim molding left anywhere on the sides is the vertical one where the rear shell meets the side sheeting, and I'm even considering glassing that one before I'm done.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:23 PM   #6
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First thing to look at is the weep holes! There are drain holes at the bottom of most RV window frames and they become clogged with anything from spiders to debris. CLEAN THEM OUT AND FILL THE SILL(OUTSIDE) WITH WATER TO BE SURE THEY ARE DRAINING THE EXSCESS WATER. (hit the caps lock button accidently)

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leak, window

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