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Old 09-04-2007, 08:14 AM   #1
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Hello my used 2001 Coleman Utah didn't come with a battery. I installed a battery box and new battery on the tongue and connected the white and black wires that were there. Voila! I had 12 volts till the battery lost it's charge. Shouldn't be towing vehicle recharge the battery while in transit? Will the converter/inverter recharge the battery while connected to 110v ? Any advice appreciated.

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Old 09-04-2007, 08:54 AM   #2
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Location: Lake Almanor, CA USA
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Hi Burnsie,
Welcome to iRV2. The answer to your question about the tow vehicle recharging the battery while in transit is YES... if the tow vehicle and trailer wiring are set up properly to do this. Check out this website for wiring. Scroll down to the "trailer wiring color code" chart and select the diagram that best suits your requirements.

What connector do you presently have to connect your trailer to your tow vehicle? You will have to upgrade to a 5 or 6-pin (at least) if all you presently have is a 4-pin connector.

The converter/inverter will recharge the battery when you connect to 110 VAC. Be sure you check the fluid level in the battery at least monthly while connected to 110 so you don't run the battery dry.

Paul <?)))>< Lake Almanor, CA

2002 Thor Tahoe 23FBGL TT, 28'
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Old 09-04-2007, 09:13 AM   #3
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Hey Paul,
Good website for wiring info, thanks.
I have a 7 pin connector on the trailer and the tow vehicle. There must be something disconnected that isn't getting power back to the trailer battery. It is supplying power alright but it isn't getting recharged.
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Old 09-04-2007, 11:51 AM   #4
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What is the make and model of your converter, not all converter in Popup charge the battery while connected to 110v

01 Sunnybrook 33 BWS

00 Chevy 2500 6.0L 3.73
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Old 09-04-2007, 06:07 PM   #5
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A good way to test your output is to have the battery connected check the voltage across the binding post. Plug the trailer into AC and now recheck the voltage it ahould read between 13 and 14 VDC if it is working right. The exact is listed on the data plate for the output charge.
Let us know.
Jim (SSG US Army Ret.) and Cheri (TSG Phx ANG Ret.) Mesa, AZ
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 HD Mega Cab Diesel | 2005 Honda Goldwing | 2006 35' Dune Chaser 5th Wheel
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Old 09-04-2007, 06:28 PM   #6
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Originally posted by Burnsie:
There must be something disconnected that isn't getting power back to the trailer battery. It is supplying power alright but it isn't getting recharged.
Check the simple things first!

Make sure you have 12VDC on terminal 6 at the tow vehicle, and that it is present at terminal 6 when the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle. Next, look for and locate the in-line fuse between the battery and the connector. More often than not, this fuse is blown. If there is no in-line fuse (you installed the battery, so you would know), then go back to the converter and find the 12DCV line going to the battery. There will be a fuse in this circuit, probably a plug-in type.

The solution is usually simple, so eliminate the simple and obvious before you start tearing the trailer apart!
Paul <?)))>< Lake Almanor, CA

2002 Thor Tahoe 23FBGL TT, 28'
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Old 09-10-2007, 03:59 PM   #7
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Like you said check the simple things first.
The wire from the harness wasn't getting good contact. I replaced the connections and all is well.
Now to get my brake controller connected....
Thanks all,
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Old 10-08-2007, 03:34 PM   #8
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Thanks for letting me post to the thread. I hope this is the best place to start my question...

I have a 1998 Jayco Cascade PU. I bought it used a month ago. I may have a converter problem and need advice. When I bought it, all accessories worked (except furnace as I was told by the seller) and possibly the 3-way fridge fridge on 12V (the seller didn't know if it worked on gas or 12V as said he never tried it on those settings). The 12 volt interior lights worked while on 110V and off 110V when I set it in my driveway. I put it up for 3 weeks and pulled it out for the first time use at a local park, but the 12V interior lights didn't work even though everything powered into 110V did work (Though I didn't check the fridge on any of the 3 settings). I was told by a nice fellow I met at the park that it could be my converter. I've been reading and doing some troublshooting. Here's what I have found so far.. Any advice would be appreciated?

- I ensured the battery was charged by taking it to Advance Auto Parts. They checked it OK, but I am nearly positive their test bench did charge it as the test took 50 minutes. I installed it back on the PU and the 12V worked (no 110V AC connected). There's battery cable fuse and it is OK.
- I cycled the breakers on the converter off/on and checked fuses for continuity and then that they were firly seated. The 12V went off and on agin as expected. Just a question here... There are two breakers (why is that?). Could one be for 12V and one for 110V?. I have a rooftop AC but it is plugged into one of the 110V outlets (and works fine).
- I plugged the 110V up to my house and lost the 12V - meaning the ceiling lights went off
- My sink switch (sink must be secured for use) works fine. When connected to just battery, I can affect the 12V system by manually triggering it open/closed.
- I have a Centurion CS 1200 20amp unit. There's a cooling fan on it that I have yet to see/hear function either before or after my problem.
- I haven't checked the battery leads to see if the converter is putting out any 12V because I am not sure it I will if I disconnect the battery that I will even get a source of power to the battery. I would have tried this if I saw the cooling fan on the converter move, but it did not.

- I am puzzled. If my converted died, why? I've done nothing to it. 3 weeks ago I had 12V when plugged into 110V or not. I know my battery is good. I will say that it was the first time I pulled it with my Toyota. I did install an aftermarked Hopkins T-One connector to the tail lights to get the trailer lights to work (that's a whole other story). Could my Hopking kit have killed my converter? It's a 4 pin connector that I thought would never have played a part in converter's operation, but perhaps it did.

- I am currently considering replacing the Centurion if I can't find out what is going on with it. But, I'd prefer to not bother or spend the $110+ to buy it. Does anyone have any advice on a unit to use if I went this route? I am considering a WFCO 8700 system as it seems to be the only thing out there. But, it is a 25amp unit and my current system in 20amp. Is there a risk there of swapping up?

Again, any advice would be wonderful.

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