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Old 04-13-2005, 01:25 PM   #1
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I have a 2004 Coleman Niagra and the water heater takes forever to light. I have to hold the pilot button down for 5 minutes or more. I have tried to light the stove to burn some fuel and hopefully get rid of the air in the line, but it makes little difference. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-13-2005, 01:25 PM   #2
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I have a 2004 Coleman Niagra and the water heater takes forever to light. I have to hold the pilot button down for 5 minutes or more. I have tried to light the stove to burn some fuel and hopefully get rid of the air in the line, but it makes little difference. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-19-2005, 11:40 AM   #3
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Welcome to the IRV2 Forum, and to the CG! I see you have tried the light the stove method 1st and still are having a difficult time lighting. If I understand correctly, it's lighting, just takes a long time to stay lit before you can release the button. I would suggest you try replacing the Thermocoupler and see if that helps. Also make sure you have cleaned everything out and no spider nests are in the tube. Spiders seem attracted to the smell of propane. I'm sure you'll get plenty of help around here, so sit back relax, and enjoy the company!
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Old 04-19-2005, 01:12 PM   #4
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Thanks Camping Nutt. It's actually not even lighting. It has been this way since I purchased the camper brand new. It seems like there ought to be some type of adjustment, but I don't find anything in the Owner's Manual. I guess I could call the dealer and see what they recommend.
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Old 04-20-2005, 11:54 AM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by cataula:
I have a 2004 Coleman Niagra and the water heater takes forever to light. I have to hold the pilot button down for 5 minutes or more. I have tried to light the stove to burn some fuel and hopefully get rid of the air in the line, but it makes little difference. Any suggestions? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Cataula, check the location of your thermocouple in relation to the pilot's flame. It requires approx. 3/8" of the tip to be directly in the pilot flame in order to have gas flow. Check burner tube for obstructions (spider webs, insects ect.)Continue to light the stove burners to purge air out of the lines before lighting the WH. It should light within a minute or two. Hope this helps, post your results.
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Old 04-30-2005, 06:52 PM   #6
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My Coleman Bayside has the same problem. If it weren't for Butane lighters I never would get it lighted.
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Old 05-01-2005, 02:49 PM   #7
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Cataula an archie, Welcome to irv2 also, can you smell gas when your trying to lite WH. Check to see if you have a shut of valve in line feeding WH or a crimp in tubeing. Some of the controls have a neatle valve adjustment behind a plug for adjusting flame, but you say never lite. Let us know what the Mfg of your WH IS.---"007"
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Old 05-10-2005, 05:57 AM   #8
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I have the same problem this past weekend on our first trip out. I had to go and start the heater up and then went back out and the pilot light lit.

Not sure why it takes that to do it.

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Old 05-10-2005, 09:52 AM   #9
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Taking all others suggestions into consideration first, you might also try this.
Ok...I would like to offer up a possible cause and solution to this issue.
I had this same problem with my gas fireplace in my house. It runs off of a 750 Millivolt Gas valve that is very similar to the valves in the campers.
I could not keep the Pilot light lit for nothing and when it did stay lit, it was not for long. I replaced the Thermocouple several times and each time it worked, for a while.
I finally got fed up and went searching the internet for a cause and solution. I found it in a site that described that the gas valve was sticking and needed to be shocked, ya that's right, shocked back into working condition.
I must have talked to 10 different gas valve techs prior to finding this info and none of them would talk. I found out on the site that this is what they do.
Take a standard D cell battery; tape a wire to each end. Then touch, (don't connect), each wire to each of the connections on the valve that the Thermocouple connects to. This will shock the valve back open and should keep in working for some time. Mine has been working for 3 years now.
Like I said, this is a possible solution and I hope it works for you. If you decide to try it, I take no responsibility, but it should not hurt anything.
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Old 05-10-2005, 09:26 PM   #10
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....replace the thermocouple-quit screwing around with your hard earned vacation time .....geofkaye
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Old 05-10-2005, 10:42 PM   #11
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Ours started acting up last month had to lite it every day we were out, thought it was because of the wind and take about 5 min the first time to make it lite.

Thanks Chris, I am going to give that D volt a try, if it burns out the thing , means I needed a new one any why.
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Old 05-11-2005, 09:27 AM   #12
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Addendum/additional info...

Whether or not to replace the Thermocouple or try the D cell thing.

Take an amp/volt meter and after one person has held the pilot button for 2 minutes, continue to hold it and you take the volt meter and test the volts at the Thermocouple connections. In my case it was reading .750 volts. If yours is NOT reading within the specs of the Thermocouple and what the Valve needs to operate for your system, then replace the Thermocouple.
If it is reading the right voltage, you might have a sticking valve, and then you could try the D cell battery shock and see if it works for you.
Also make sure the connections to the valve from the Thermocouple are clean, with a bare metal surface. A Millivolt system is very sensitive will not operate correctly even if there is a little dust or dirt under the connection.
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Old 05-16-2005, 08:13 AM   #13
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I am just checking back as I am curious if anyone has found their problem and/or fixed it. As with any of the problems we have, it is interesting to see what the fix and solution was.
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