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Old 06-11-2016, 04:24 AM   #15
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Check to see if you can reset the overheat switch with a magnet.
Make sure there is no green stuff around the coils and no refrigerant leaks before resetting.
Google the procedure.

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Old 06-11-2016, 06:07 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
oscarsrv, I'm afraid what happened to Norcold service is the liability issues Norcold has had over faulty refrigerators and failed 'heat sensors' and RV fires.

You never mentioned what model of Norcold you have, if it's in the 12xx series, you should check with Thetford about whether your unit is covered by the recall.

Norcold Cooling Unit Recall Announcement | Thetford

The term 'heat sensor (safety switch) is a little general, if you can provide a part #, it would be easier to help you. You might check here:

Norcold Parts for RV Refrigerators for Sale - PPL Motor Homes

or here:

Norcold Parts by Norcold Refrigerator Model (find all of the parts for your model!)

There are many sources for parts besides the manufacturer.
Yes im aware the Fridge has been recalled.
Its the Norcold model 1200 LRIM fridge . The heat sensor does not have a part # and can only be ordered through Norcold . Its a safety feature to prvent the fridge from overheating . The sensor was installed 3 years ago. The issue im now having is with Norcold . They will not send the part to me. It has to be inspected by a tech before they will even send the part to a dealer for install.

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Old 06-11-2016, 08:39 AM   #17
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If it is a thermal switch (usually a round disk like object with 2 wires) they are common safety items and places like digikey may have them.

One needs to know the set or trip point.

Question is why is it where it is and fail?

We do not have that brand so guessing here...

It could be the switch is located near a heater and if heater gets too hot it opens up.

Some are one time and others reset as well.

Before replacement double check the heater and control system as it may be heating too much.

There may be a color dot or other code on the unit to identify the temperature so you could replace it.

Some good conversation with the manufacturer such as asking what temp it operates at as part of troubleshooting may get them to tell you the rating.

Many appliance parts places also sell these devices so look for one of those as they may have already been down that road too.
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Old 06-11-2016, 09:48 AM   #18
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A replacement GFCI that won't reset usually indicates there is a short to Ground somewhere in the circuit, not a bad GFCI. I would try unplugging the fridge from the 120V and see if it will reset. If it does, get the fridge fixed.

You could have another device that was damaged, possibly even a downstream GFCI.

If the old GFCI will now reset you need to test it with a one of the wiring testers that indicate if it is wired correctly and has a button to test the GFCI.

This is a potentially dangerous condition because it could make the skin or frame of the RV electrically hot.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:44 AM   #19
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The thermal sensor is a simple diode looking device, a capsule with two wires sticking out of it. It is a thermal fuse. Once it blows, its scrap. A friend bought a 1986 Avion that had a non working fridge in it. We didn't know about fires or the recalls, but figured out the thermal fuse was blown. Using a magnifier we got the numbers off of it and some Google searching found the device at an electronics supply I think it was. He bought about four of of them, it was a dollar or so each. The fridge has a nice flame, nothing out of the ordinary and has been working fine for a couple of years now, with quite a bit of use.

These thermal fuses are similar to what is used on a lot of automobile A/C-heat blower resistor blocks. If the motor gets to dragging or draws too much current for whatever reason, or for other reasons the air circulation of the resistor is poor, the thermal fuse blows, leaving you with high speed and nothing else. Chrysler products are the worst about blowing them, the blower moves too little air on low speed to cool the resistors. I solved the issue by soldering a 14 gauge copper wire across the fuse, and cutting out the resistor for low speed. Remaining resistors could not generate enough heat to blow the fuse if it had one, and the fan generates enough air flow to cool the remaining two resistors. But I digress..................

It is possible to identify the thermal fuse and replace it..........


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