Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-02-2015, 11:15 AM   #29
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,510
Visit a local senior center and seek out retired gas station guys...

I am only 55 but cut teeth tinkering with thus era.

New guys for most part are worthless with these as skill set is no longer trained and hobby is either video games or bolt on upgrades to crate engine.

Us old farts were too cheap for crate anything and just built it.

Seek out some retired folks that you can provide labor in other ways as payment and the rewards will be great.

We provided bobcat work and general Mr fix it stuff to former neighbors working for pies and homemade to die for cinnamon rolls...

Later got a great deal on our cc...

Your beast has low miles so simple slow steps should get her running.

First steps are compression check and spark plug inspection.

Few folks can read them anymore as computer controlled fuel injection leaves most same anymore but in yours they will tell the general condition of the engine regarding how well it was running.

Tony & Lori
1989 Country Coach Savannah SE
TQ60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-02-2015, 03:09 PM   #30
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 133
TQ60 offers great advice on locating someone qualified to help you. You also might try an automotive restoration shop to help locate a competent mechanic. These shops are usually staffed by the older mechanics.

My fear for you is that the RV sat a lot and was not maintained. This means dried-up seals, corrosion and rust. Moisture will kill the brake system, leaks will plague anything lubricated or pressurized. The previous owner may have know about internal issued and failed to tell you.

I would be very hesitant to throw money at this rig. You may have gotten a deal on it when purchased, but this could be just an expensive life experience. (We have all had at least one expensive lesson, some of us have had quite a few).

Since you are willing to learn, I would suggest pulling one of the valve covers. Looking at the condition of the internals might give you a clue. If you are able, remove the distributor cap. Then place a socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft damper nut. Rotate the nut one direction and then rotate it the other way. Watch how far you have to change direction on the nut before the distributor rotor changes direction. This will tell you how much slop is on the timing chain.
Buy a compression gauge at your local auto parts store. They are cheap. Take good readings of all of the cylinders. If you have low pressure on all of the cylinders (Under 120), or if you have one or two that are more than 15% lower than the others, you will have internal problems that will need to be addressed.
It is not that difficult to replace wiring. It is, however, very time consuming. Make sure that you solder all connections. Do not rely on crimp connections. Use the same gauge wire for each splice. Go one wire at a time to avoid mistakes.
With regards to the solenoid, find a direct replacement for the original.
With regards to your original comment about a backfire, carburetors do not usually cause a backfire on their own, unless extremely lean. A backfire is usually a timing issue, usually too far advanced. A slack timing chain can also cause this. I don't think that your distributor has conventional points, correct? If it does have points, any mis-adjustment will cause the timing to be off. (One degree of dwell error causes two degrees of timing error)

I would try to find help before throwing money at this.

Good luck!


superlucky is offline   Reply With Quote

ford, travel

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fixing the oil pressure gauge on your 460 (7.5L) E350 MT4Runner Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum 3 04-06-2015 10:43 PM
New Mobile browsing option | Mobile skin Janet H Forum 101 | Announcements | Member Concerns 0 03-02-2015 11:07 AM
Cummins Provides NEW Mobile App. DriVer RV Industry Press 1 10-26-2014 05:51 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:08 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.