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Old 12-27-2009, 01:38 PM   #15
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Hi BABrede,
Wow, me thinks one of your nine lives has been used. Congrats coming out of this the way you did.
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Old 12-27-2009, 05:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BABrede View Post
Hey, Thanks for the responses.

Guess the LORD was smiling upon us ( HE does protect the dummies) . Only lost 2 TV's (which we wanted to replace anyway), everything else we checked seems fine.

Batteries did discharge. I finally turned everything off and shutdown the coach completely and left it for a couple hours. Then fired up the genset and let it run for a couple hours. The batteries now showed a FULL CHARGE! YEEHAAWW. Don't know if it was the genset or the solar panel, I really don't care, but they charged up and have been working fine for the last day & a half.

Upon return from Shreveport in a few days (depends on how the luck is running) I'll contact an electrician to just run me a feed out to the parking pad and forget about the welder outlet (NEVER AGAIN).

You definetly lucked out, the charger may have an automatic thermal overload unit that reset after it cooled. As for using the equipment ground as a neutral, anyone doing this is taking a big chance that it(the ground) was actually connected properly in the panel, also the adapter you were using was probally wired incorrectly also, since the RV plug is four wire, and the welder plug is only three wires, the ground and neutral was probally not jumpered together in the homemade adapter. This is what caused the damage because of the unbalanced voltage. If it is a 30 amp RV plug, then you sent straight 240 volts on the 120 volt circuit. If installing a 30 amp RV receptacle make sure your electrician knows it is 120 volt not 240!
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Old 12-27-2009, 07:27 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by BABrede View Post
Batteries went dead last night. Generator not charging them back up. Think I may have fried the inverter or charger, is there a difference in the 2 units?

Some background info:
Plugged MH into house, welder outlet, MH made BIG buzz sound , unplugged immediately. Only thing I found was that I fried both TV's (old CRT models anyway) . Now first night out and I find that the batteries won't charge by the generator or the engine. Checked the Inverter, it's in the OFF position (like the book says it's supposed to be) . I'm not familar with the batteries charging system (yet), what do I check next? All breakers and fuses that power the coach are ok. Battery door iced shut right now, so can't get into it. Is there a fuse panel in there also?

Thanks for any advice you can give.


Kerry

2000 Fleetwood American Eagle DP
8500 Onan Generator
The 'buzz' was probably live electricity (like a taser) being exposed somewhere near the batteries. While the batteries might be shot. When I got my motorhome, the day after we brought it home the batteries were dead. Luckily we had a battery booster and after hooking it up we were able to start it up with ease. Once we were able to identify that the batteries weren't being shorted out , we had the RV store replace the batteries. Due to the fact that we don't use our motorhome as often as we should the batteries seem to die often.
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:19 AM   #18
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Your insurance may cover the tv damage - check your policy coverages. Both the motorhome policy and the extended service policy, if you have one.
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:08 AM   #19
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Dr4Film,

My "special" is a little simpler. All that I did was jumper the neutral and ground in the 4 prong recepticle and run the three conductors to the plug that goes into the welder outlet. From that point it's only three feet to the panel and there is no way to not have the ground connected. That also complies with the requirement that all wires must be in the same box, cable, or conduit.

Basically what I did is wire it the same way that dryers and ranges were wired before the mid 90's code change.

I will give you one size large WARNING!!! WARNING!!! WARNING!!! about what you did

I've, on occasion, peaked inside a 3-wire welder or dryer outlet and this is what I found

Two 8ga wires (L1 and L2) and one 12 or 14ga (Neutral)

Now.. Let's say you are sucking major amps on ONE leg, water heater and one air conditioner for example.. that is close to 30 amps... and the other leg is sucking perhaps 1 amp maintaining the batteries. that's a differential of 29 amps

14ga wire is not rated anywhere near 29 amps continous in conduit, 12ga is not either.

You might end up with some friends of mine making a house call

The fire department

The solution.. if it's in conduit, is to pull a 3rd 8ga wire and replace the outlet with a properly wired 50 amp receptical (even if it's still only 30 amp breakers) then break out the Brother P-Touch and label it

"RV USE ONLY, 30 amps 120/240 volts"
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:11 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BABrede View Post

Batteries did discharge. I finally turned everything off and shutdown the coach completely and left it for a couple hours. Then fired up the genset and let it run for a couple hours. The batteries now showed a FULL
2 hours is not long enough to fully charge the batteries. Takes six to eight to do that in a best case scenaro

If the batteries are totally dead (In which case they might be toast) that would get you at best 60-70 percent, if they are only half gone (The recommended limit to discharge) 80 to around 92 percent

That last 10 percent (90-100) takes hours at a much lower charge rate.
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Old 12-28-2009, 12:46 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
I will give you one size large WARNING!!! WARNING!!! WARNING!!! about what you did

I've, on occasion, peaked inside a 3-wire welder or dryer outlet and this is what I found

Two 8ga wires (L1 and L2) and one 12 or 14ga (Neutral)

Now.. Let's say you are sucking major amps on ONE leg, water heater and one air conditioner for example.. that is close to 30 amps... and the other leg is sucking perhaps 1 amp maintaining the batteries. that's a differential of 29 amps

14ga wire is not rated anywhere near 29 amps continous in conduit, 12ga is not either.

You might end up with some friends of mine making a house call

The fire department

The solution.. if it's in conduit, is to pull a 3rd 8ga wire and replace the outlet with a properly wired 50 amp receptical (even if it's still only 30 amp breakers) then break out the Brother P-Touch and label it

"RV USE ONLY, 30 amps 120/240 volts"
If the ground is #14 or #12, it does not meet code anyway, the minimum size equipment ground for a 30 or 50 amp circuit is #10. It is still much safer to do it right and run #6 for the 50 amp receptacle, or #10 for the 30 amp receptacle (#8 is only good for 40 amps, even in conduit because the wire has to be derated to the temp rating of the breaker.)
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Old 12-28-2009, 01:47 PM   #22
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wa8yxm,

I'm probably smarter than you think. The cable from my outlet to the panel is a
6-3G.
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Old 12-28-2009, 07:44 PM   #23
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I plug into a 220V line every time I plug up. That's what 50A coaches do.

Now if you do the same thing with a 30A coach into an improperly wired plug-bad juju.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryKD View Post
Hi Kerry,
I agree with the previous posts. You may have plugged into a 220 VAC line. That is very bad for a coach.
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