Community Forums

lloydjw · 02-22-2010, 07:39 PM

Has anybody had to replace a black tank gate valve on a 30' 2001 Itasca Sunrise?

Dr4Film · 02-22-2010, 08:28 PM

There have been numerous members with all different types and manufactures of coaches that have had to replace one or both valves on their black or gray tanks. I had to do mine a few months ago. If you have to replace one and they are tied together in close proximity to a central exit opening like mine, I would suggest doing both at the same time. Not sure what your situation is but if you have a specific question regarding the replacement procedure, please state again.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

lloydjw · 02-23-2010, 11:35 AM

Thanks for the reply. The Itasca has a panel containing a pump switch, light switch and water transfer valves. The black and grey tank valves are behind it and controlled by a cable that feeds to the front panel where the handles are. I was concerned because when I took it to Camping World in La Mirada, Ca., the less than excited mechanic said it was too hard to do and sent me on my way. Was hoping someone out there replaced one of their valves and could give me a little insight. I agree with you and thank you for the advise about replacing both at the same time, I will do that.

Lloyd

AFChap · 02-23-2010, 05:29 PM

Lloyd ...don't know the access situation on your Sunrise, but they aren't easy on my Ultimate. When I had a dealer replace the black valve, I found out later that they had cut a hole in the storage compartment wall next to the valves, and also in the floor metal panel on the bottom of the coach. They closed both holed very nicely or I would have been pretty upset with them. A couple of years later, I had to replace the gray valve. I found the only real access is to remove the wall of the storage compartment immediately in front of where the valves are. It easily comes out when screws are removed (and took less time and trouble than it took the idiot dealership to cut and close the holes they did). Then I had to go through some styrofoam insulation. I ended up replacing just the rubber seal rather than the entire valve when I figured out getting the valve out would be a lot more work, and I saw no reason to do that when I could just replace the seal where the blade seats. It took me the better part of a day to figure it out and complete the job.

lloydjw · 02-24-2010, 04:06 AM

Thank you AFChap. I went to the Itasca site today and downloaded the schematic. Only problem is the schematic they have for my model does not come close to matching what is on mine. I think I'll try to photograph the back of the cover plate with all it's connections before I pull off the outer cover plate. I figure I will be working on it for a good day, but as long as I finally get it done. The amount of leaking I currently have is pretty serious and a mess when I try to connect my hose to the dump pipe.

Easyrider · 02-24-2010, 05:08 PM

While your working on it we'll be thinking of eewwww!

bldrbob · 02-25-2010, 07:26 PM

An easy way out would be to get the valve that is mounted to a connector similar to the hose connector.that way you could connect the hose before opening the new valve and avoid dripping.
BOB

AFChap · 02-25-2010, 08:09 PM

Quote:

get the valve that is mounted to a connector similar to the hose connector

I actually tried that when I was having my leak problems. It would be handy to use as a secondary valve for both tanks to help prevent drips when there are leaky valves. But I could not get it on mine either at the main outlet or on the clear elbow I have added onto the outlet. There just isn't room in my water service bay. If I could get the valve with rotating connectors I might be able to make it work ...or maybe put a short hose inside the compartment...