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Old 05-14-2012, 01:11 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by LadyFitz... View Post
Do you think the OP would have been asking about it if he had enough knowledge to "safely" do what you are proposing? Just because you know enough to do it without killing yourself (although that is questionable) doesn't mean everyone does.
I think the OP answered your question...and Yes, I do have the experience and if you think this idea is so far off , I guess you have never worked in construction where a temporary power source is preferrable over plugging your power tools into a residence's outside outlet. The fact is that MOST DIY'ers would have NO issue with doing this! IMHO
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:46 PM   #44
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Furthermore.......whats ludacris is the thought that hooking up three wires (ground wire to ground lug, neutral wire to neutral lug and Hot wire to breaker) is somehow more difficult or dangerous than playing around with an inside outlet or trying to imagine what adaptor might work with an existing dryer outelt without having the slightest clue as to how this dryer outet is wired in the first place. Seriously, talk about ladacris!
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:32 PM   #45
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Wow.....after reading some of the replies, Id be more confused than when he started! Id go about this completely different. Go to Home Depot, get yourself a 5' piece of white, black and green #10 wire, get an approved 30 amp RV outlet.....wait until you get to your relatives house, find the Service Panel, verify there is a single breaker space available and go to the local Home Depot to get the appropriate 30 amp single poll breaker. If you have even the slightest knowledge ABOUT ELECTRICAL, hooking this temporary power outlet up is a cinch! Heck, you dont even need a Box to put the outlet in.....wrap some high quality electrical tape around the outlet and your good to go. When you leave, you disconnect your temp outlet, close everything back up and move on to the next time/place you need a 30 amp receptable(Ok...so if's its someone else's house, you might have to match the breaker again). This may sound difficult but we do this all the time in construction work.
Illegal as he#$
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:35 PM   #46
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Now that is something I could work with I think.. Yes I have a basic knowledge of elec,,, used to be an aircraft mech... So thanks Very much for the simple explanation ! Great idea !!!
Monkey
Your joking correct? You have enough experience to wire in a temp outlet but not enough to know how to tap one already there??

I'm outta this thread.. too much..
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:37 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by acampingwewillgo View Post
Furthermore.......whats ludacris is the thought that hooking up three wires (ground wire to ground lug, neutral wire to neutral lug and Hot wire to breaker) is somehow more difficult or dangerous than playing around with an inside outlet or trying to imagine what adaptor might work with an existing dryer outelt without having the slightest clue as to how this dryer outet is wired in the first place. Seriously, talk about ladacris!
EXACTLY why it shouldn't have even been mentioned! Not enough experience for EITHER way..
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:42 PM   #48
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If you have an electrician that you know, ask him/her if they could make up a "special cable and receptical that would pull one leg of the 30 amp from the dryer outlet to power your moho. It can be done, but since you are asking here, you may not feel comfortable in making such a cable. If you explain to the electrician what you are up against, he can make what you need to be powered and safe, not the best way to do this, but it appears you are limited in your options. Other option would be to have an electrician install the proper 30 amp outlet at DW's Mom's house
That is your answer. And why you should get an electrician to make it for you. Make it absolutely and positively clear to the electrician, that even though the 30amp plug "sort of" looks like it's 220V make it positively clear that its an RV plug (by code) and that the RV 30amp plug is - by code - ONLY 120V and ONLY 120V and ONLY 120v and that is by code. Yes, even qualified electricians make that mistake. They don't typically see this thing that is somewhat uniquely an RV 30amp plug.

Instead of making the adapter in the quoted post, you might actually just have the electrician wire an RV 30amp plug next to the dryer plug. And again, make sure they wire it per code at 120V.
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:03 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by acampingwewillgo

I think the OP answered your question...and Yes, I do have the experience and if you think this idea is so far off , I guess you have never worked in construction where a temporary power source is preferrable over plugging your power tools into a residence's outside outlet. The fact is that MOST DIY'ers would have NO issue with doing this! IMHO
But then you are using a temporary wiring installation with a ground fault for "construction-like activities" making it legitimate.
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:52 PM   #50
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I read this whole thread too and some of the suggestions were SO far out there, that not even an experienced installer could understand what the hell they were talking about.....I dont apologize for offering a MUCH more straight forward approach to a TEMPORARY solution to the OP's question, whether it be legal or illegal(Jesus...if you want it legal, put one in permanately). Once again, an elementary knowledge of breakers, panels and wiring would suffice in understanding the concept I put forward.
In the beginning of this topic, those so called experts were all over the place with its a 3 wire dryer outlet(2 hots and a neutral), no..its a 3 wire with 2 hots and a ground, No wait, its 4 wire with 2 hots a neutral and a ground Not to mention those that wanted to make an adaptor!! Finally, to the OP....if you dont feel confident enough or have knowledge enough for this install...dont do it and Dont listen to anyone here, including me because none of us know exactly what you are facing without seeing it first hand. I have limited experience as an electrician(only 20 years)......so those here who are the experts can continue to advise you! Carry on all.........
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:58 PM   #51
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30 amp single pole GFGI breakers are not usually supplied at the local HomeDepot. The last RV power I put in the breaker ran me $54 my cost.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:23 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by acampingwewillgo View Post
I think the OP answered your question...and Yes, I do have the experience and if you think this idea is so far off , I guess you have never worked in construction where a temporary power source is preferrable over plugging your power tools into a residence's outside outlet. The fact is that MOST DIY'ers would have NO issue with doing this! IMHO
I worked for an electric/irrigation utility for 32 years. I've been on plenty of construction sites and never saw a Michael Mouse arrangement such as you proposed. I don't know where you live but in AZ, a site that pulled a stunt like that would get shut down fast and the company would have the snot fined out of them. Even for a minor job, it can't even start until a legal power source is installed and approved if an existing LEGAL power source isn't already available.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:30 PM   #53
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Furthermore.......whats ludacris is the thought that hooking up three wires (ground wire to ground lug, neutral wire to neutral lug and Hot wire to breaker) is somehow more difficult or dangerous than playing around with an inside outlet or trying to imagine what adaptor might work with an existing dryer outelt without having the slightest clue as to how this dryer outet is wired in the first place. Seriously, talk about ladacris!
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EXACTLY why it shouldn't have even been mentioned! Not enough experience for EITHER way..
Agreed. The ludicrous suggestion should never have been mentioned. I'm also out of here.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:57 PM   #54
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Ok, I will post a bit of history here: Now do understand it has been a LONG time since I installed a dryer, and being a full timer,,I'm not likely to do so again soon.

IN the old days (I think the first dryer my parents got was in the 60's or very late 50's) Dryers had 3-wire outlets, HOT, HOT, Neutral, Safety ground was a wire that you were supposed to attach to the cold water pipe. back then all the cold water pipes (hot too) were metal so this worked,, NOTE: For other reasons it is NOT a good setup, but that's how they made 'em.

Today.. Since so many houses have PVC plumbing, that method no longer is reliable. So they may be using 4-wire plugs and cords. In fact, I'm going to check.

Yes a quick internet search took me to a company selling dryer outlets, all the outlets pictured were 4-wire, One of them looked a lot like a standard 50 amp RV outlet (However I did not read the specs so I do not know if the slots are the same size and spacing).

So as I said, If it is a 3-wire outlet do not

If it is a 4-wire outlet, go right ahead.

Just verify the wires are what they should be before you plug in the RV.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:05 PM   #55
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OK

First - The 3 wire dryer outlet consists of two hot wires and a neutral. For many years the NEC allowed the use of the 3rd wire as a combined neutral and grounding conductor. In recent years the code was changed to require 4 wires (seperate neutral and grounding conductor) on any new installation and existing could still remain as 3 prong receptacle.

Many dryers have 120 volt light bulbs, timers etc. so 120 volts is present along with 240 volts at the appliance.

The dryer outlet and cordset is protected by the circuit breaker feeding the outlet. If the cord plugged into the outlet is rated for 30 amps it will be protected also.

I would buy a 30 Amp dryer pigtail from China Depot, a 30 Amp 120 volt receptacle, junction box, cord connector and cover. Connect one of the hot wires to the receptacle, tape the other hot off and connect the neutral of the cordset to the neutral terminal (white screw of the receptacle) and you are done. There is no hazard - the cordset is rated for 30 amps. Just pass the cord through the connector, mount receptacle to box and you are done. To be doubly safe, you could bond the neutral to the box with a ground screw and jumper. Keep it out of the water!

The receptacle won't care or know whether a dryer or Rv is plugged into it.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:08 PM   #56
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I worked for an electric/irrigation utility for 32 years. I've been on plenty of construction sites and never saw a Michael Mouse arrangement such as you proposed. I don't know where you live but in AZ, a site that pulled a stunt like that would get shut down fast and the company would have the snot fined out of them. Even for a minor job, it can't even start until a legal power source is installed and approved if an existing LEGAL power source isn't already available.
"Micky Mouse"....???? Tell ya what, try working on a New tract home where there are numerous sub contractors IN the greater Los Angeles area.... if your company is STUPID enough to use the residence power for Jack Hammers, heat boxes, or any high current job site tool and you "trip" the GFI in the garage where the home owners freezer is plugged in and you have NO access to said freezer, YOU will be paying the price. A Temporary power source is one that is installed and removed on the same day of construction. We NEVER used outlets outside of the residence for our power...NEVER!! Or better yet, if you havent the knowledge about messing with live neutral wires in a Panel, you better stand by for arranging payment for damage to electrical equipment within the residence. Maybe your company never did this this cause NO ONE had enough knowledge to do it. In your scanerio at an existing occcupied residence where you have mason's using tile saws, us using heat boxes and jack hammers, where do you purpose to pull the power for that day from...15 amp house outlets? What if you dont have access to the house? Give me a BREAK......the only "Mickey Mouse" work was from yourself and your employer!!!! Once again....a temporary outlet is one that is installed and removed in the same day to allow the use of High Current Tools that Some of us use...not much different than a Temp Power Pole located on New Construction.....
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