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Old 05-22-2012, 04:55 PM   #15
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It's set at 30a. Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Bill
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:12 PM   #16
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So everything else on AC in the RV is working properly? Things on both legs of the main box? You don't say what kind of RV you have. How many AC units does it have? If there's just one basement unit, does it actually require 240v? How many breakers in your main panel are labeled for the AC?

joe
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:36 PM   #17
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It is a Coleman heat pump unit rated 115v 1 phase.
Everything in the coach (2007 Itasca Suncruiser 38T) works fine.
I have a suspicion my exstension cord (50' 30a) is to long even though i show 120v on a volt meter inside the coach.
Thanks
Bill
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:00 PM   #18
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This is good advice, but if you install a 50A plug for your RV, make sure the wire from the street to the house is large enough to handle the electrical load of the house AND 50A service to the RV. Don't forget, so-called 50A RV service is really 100 amps. Most existing household electrical service can't handle an increased load of 100 amps, so you should at least plan on the possibility of having to upgrade your home's electrical service sometime in the future.
Help me out, Paz, if you will.... I understand that the house and MH can pull together through the meter, but are you saying the RV can pull more than 50A from the house service? If I install a 50A receptacle outside for a MH that draws from the house panel, and I have breakers in the house panel and the MH, can the MH pull 100? I'm not well-versed on electrical, so I'm kind of in the dark on this....
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:03 PM   #19
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Help me out, Paz, if you will.... I understand that the house and MH can pull together through the meter, but are you saying the RV can pull more than 50A from the house service? If I install a 50A receptacle outside for a MH that draws from the house panel, and I have breakers in the house panel and the MH, can the MH pull 100? I'm not well-versed on electrical, so I'm kind of in the dark on this....
It can pull as much as 50amp from each leg, for a total of 100amps.

If the house service is only 100 or 200amp total, which is not unusual in an older home, you could have problems.

joe
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:05 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by bilcol81 View Post
It is a Coleman heat pump unit rated 115v 1 phase.
Everything in the coach (2007 Itasca Suncruiser 38T) works fine.
I have a suspicion my exstension cord (50' 30a) is to long even though i show 120v on a volt meter inside the coach.
Thanks
Bill
Ya got me. Does it even TRY to start up? Can you watch the voltage when you turn it on and see if it drops below 108 or so?

joe
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:30 PM   #21
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Thanks Joe.
When I turn the thermostat to cool you can here the switch click but nothing happens, no fan, no amp draw. I tried just the fan but nothing. I'm going to turn the coach around and eliminate at least 1 extension cord.
Bill
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:55 PM   #22
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I expect that it is wired the same as my '08 Meridian with the Coleman dual compressor basement unit. The service leg for first stage (marked on the main breaker panel) controls the unit. The other leg (for the second stage) just supplies the second stage compressor. Make sure that you have sufficient voltage for the first stage.

If you swing the basement access door open (5 or 6 screws) and remove the cover on the AC unit (2 or 3 screws) there is a green led that can help with diagnosis.

Also, I believe that the thermostat requires 12 volts from the house batteries to function properly. Mine powers down when I flip the house power switch to off.
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:52 PM   #23
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It can pull as much as 50amp from each leg, for a total of 100amps.

If the house service is only 100 or 200amp total, which is not unusual in an older home, you could have problems.

joe
Thanks Joe, but if I have a 50A breaker in the house panel to protect the line serving the outside MH receptacle, it would trip before I could pull more, isn't that correct? So, although I understand it is a balancing act, I think if I'm running everything I can in the MH up to 50A, which would be rare, I'm unlikely to have a problem with the house. Is that basically right?
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:24 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelheadbluesman View Post
Thanks Joe, but if I have a 50A breaker in the house panel to protect the line serving the outside MH receptacle, it would trip before I could pull more, isn't that correct? So, although I understand it is a balancing act, I think if I'm running everything I can in the MH up to 50A, which would be rare, I'm unlikely to have a problem with the house. Is that basically right?

50A RV service is on TWO 50A breakers, in tandem. You have TWO 50A hot legs in the pedestal. You can potentially pull 100A total from these two hot wires.

I think it would be rare to approach that sort of usage in your MH.
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:40 PM   #25
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If you have ever installed a standard household wall outelet then installing a 30 amp RV outlet (TT-30) will be no problem.

The only difference is you use heavier wire on the TT-30 (at least 10 ga, 8 for long runs)

Black to copper screw, White to the "Slivery" screw and green (or bare) to the green screw, Same exactly as a standard 15 amp wall outlet.
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:37 PM   #26
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Problem solved!
First of all, the idiot electrician wired the thing for 240v even though I gave him the instruction sheet from the RV Electric website. I caught that when I checked the outlet for voltage before plugging in. What I didn't check was the polarity which he had reversed. It came to me at about 3am last night to check. I reversed the wires and all is working properly.
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