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Old 03-10-2008, 06:13 AM   #15
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Agreed that your mains are gone. Doesn't take but a short minute when they are run dry. I spun a main on my 84 Pace Arrow - P30 454 and took the motor out through the front. My lower front cap came off after removing some pop rivets etc. Took carb and exh manifolds, distributor etc off and it was tight but came out. Be sure to support the transmission. Wasn't too terrible of a job, just expensive. I purchased a rebuilt long block and it ran very good.

2005 Allegro Bay 37DB
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:27 AM   #16
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What about a cracked flywheel? Anybody have experienced the same symptoms with OK oil pressure?

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Old 03-10-2008, 07:11 AM   #17
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Randy, sure sounds from your description, that the previous owner installed new bearings on crankshaft that was damaged from running without oil. The oil pressure you are reporting is way too low for this engine when hot. Worn bearings, both main and rod, will cause this due to too much clearance being created by the bad crank. Hope I am wrong on this diagnosis.
I don't have any info on engine removal, as each coach builder sometimes requires a different approach due to build. I have seen some removed and replaced from the bottom, after removal of front axle, some thru the front, either whole or in pieces. Good luck.

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Old 03-11-2008, 05:32 PM   #18
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In reference to you postings below: Your oil pressure would not be affected if it were the flexplate (what you are calling the flywheel, flexplates are used for automatics and flywheels for manual trannys). True, a broken flexplate can cause a loud ticking but a rod knock is a different sound.

Now then, as to the sound going away at higher rpm, that happens regularly. When you speed up the engine you speed up the oil pump which is driven by the distributor gear and tail tang. This increases pressure and floats the damaged surfaces enough for you not to hear the knock. The knock is still there and will get worse as I said before. If the surfaces were allowed continue operating, the gap would become wider and wider and the oil pressure would get subsequently lower. (Again, I suggest you do not run the engne at all until you pull the pan and inspect the crank and rod bearings). When you advance rpm on the engine you are also drownding out the noise with fan and exhaust racket.

I wish I were wrong as much as your hope it isn't a rod. I have just experienced this way too many times in my many moons here, on this planet. Please keep us posted.



<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">What about a cracked flywheel? Anybody have experienced the same symptoms with OK oil pressure?
Randy </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">If it is a main bearing, wouldn't the noise get louder under a load? At about 55mph, I can accelerate and the noise goes away.
Randy </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:17 PM   #19
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Cut the oil filter open and examine the filtering media closely. If you have spun a bearing it should be evident. Airplane piston engines have this done routinely during oil changes-- good luck,

Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
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