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Old 05-31-2017, 12:07 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Sbrownstein View Post
Are you telling me that I can no longer "trust the union label?"
I can guarantee that an I.B.E.W. Electrician wouldn't be asking that question about how to wire it!!
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:11 PM   #30
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Those that don't believe that there is 120/240 volts in your 50 amp RV service, need to go and read the writing on your shore power plug and any CG outlet.


There is no special " RV " 50 amp service
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:30 PM   #31
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I would note that in marinas, there has for years been both 120V and 120/240V versions of 50A service for boats, each with its own type of plug/receptacle (twist type used for marine application). RV 50A is always 120/240V split phase however (four prongs; L1, L2, N & G).
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:37 PM   #32
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Your electrician is on the ball for asking this question. Unless he does this a lot, this connection is unusual. Provide him with this PDF file so he knows what the difference is. Basically, he's wiring the receptacle on your pedestal as if it were a "Remote Distribution Panel" or a subpanel, because that's exactly what it is...

If the pedestal is wired correctly, you actually do indeed have 240 volts available entering your MH..

HOWEVER - DO NOT LET THIS CONFUSE YOU. Your MH is NOT wired to support 240 volts (Well, yes it is, kinda, but don't run out and buy a 240 volt AC unit or dryer) Your standard 120 volt appliances is what will be supported.

http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/50-amp%20Service.pdf

When wiring for an RV, the main difference will be the addition of a "Neutral" return line.

For your RV, use the correct receptacle (14-50R), AND, You MUST wire the receptacle using four wires. The Neutral wire acts as a return for the two legs of 120 single phase.

In a regular ole 3 wire 240 volt installation, there is no "Neutral".. The return for one leg is the other leg.
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:57 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
HOWEVER - DO NOT LET THIS CONFUSE YOU. Your MH is NOT wired to support 240 volts (Well, yes it is, kinda, but don't run out and buy a 240 volt AC unit or dryer) Your standard 120 volt appliances is what will be supported.
Don't over generalize. Many larger RVs (mine included) are wired for 240V and have a 240V dryer.
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Old 05-31-2017, 01:20 PM   #34
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Quote:
Don't over generalize. Many larger RVs (mine included) are wired for 240V and have a 240V dryer.
Yup, I knew this, but I also knew as soon as I said it, someone would go out, buy a 240 AC unit or washer dryer, then wonder why their MH isn't wired for it.. (even though it kinda is)

Question: Have you run in to any 50 amp pedestals that were wired with a single 120 phase rather than 240?
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Old 05-31-2017, 01:33 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post

When wiring for an RV, the main difference will be the addition of a "Neutral" return line.

For your RV, use the correct receptacle (14-50R), AND, You MUST wire the receptacle using four wires. The Neutral wire acts as a return for the two legs of 120 single phase.
.
The neutral only carrys the imballance of the 2 lines. If your drawing 25 amps per leg, the neutral carrys nothing. Never more then 50 amps.
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Old 05-31-2017, 01:37 PM   #36
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Question: Have you run in to any 50 amp pedestals that were wired with a single 120 phase rather than 240?
That would overload the neutral with the potential of 100 amps.

I'v read that they do run a single 50 amp leg to both sides of a 50 amp 240 volt receptcal. That gives you 120 volts and 1/2 the power you expect.
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Old 05-31-2017, 01:46 PM   #37
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The neutral only carrys the imballance of the 2 lines. If your drawing 25 amps per leg, the neutral carrys nothing. Never more then 50 amps.
Yes.

If one side is drawing 50 amps, but the other side is drawing nothing, the entire 50 amps will return via the neutral.

If both sides are drawing 50 amps, and the pedestal is wired correctly (240 volts) Since the two phases are 180 apart, they cancel each other and there will be no current flow through the neutral.

HOWEVER - If the pedestal is wired incorrectly with one 120 volt phase thats shared across both legs, then there could be 100 amps flowing in the neutral, AND, FlyingDrivers 240 volt washer/dryer will not work, because its getting ZERO volts.
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Old 05-31-2017, 03:36 PM   #38
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Personally I think that some people are trying to give an electrician too much information, much of it that they do not themselves understand. Virtually any electrician understands these issues once they see the rig and the plug.
Yep
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Old 05-31-2017, 04:03 PM   #39
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Question: Have you run in to any 50 amp pedestals that were wired with a single 120 phase rather than 240?
I haven't. Yet.
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Old 05-31-2017, 04:05 PM   #40
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Jamesdl, if you don't have an energy management device on your RV, I STRONGLY suggest that you add one. It's the best and cheapest insurance you can buy to protect all the expensive electrical systems and electronic gadgets in your RV.

This company makes the best. They analyze the power you plug into and won't allow any into your coach if it's not right.

Progressive Industries RV Surge and Electrical Protection industry lea

Six years ago I had to go to the internet to prove to an electrician that my 30 amp coach didn't run on 240V power.
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Old 05-31-2017, 05:39 PM   #41
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HOWEVER - DO NOT LET THIS CONFUSE YOU. Your MH is NOT wired to support 240 volts (Well, yes it is, kinda, but don't run out and buy a 240 volt AC unit or dryer) Your standard 120 volt appliances is what will be supported.
As mentioned it absolutely is wired to support 240v whether you have any 240v loads or not. The loads are split across the two hot legs in the load center in an attempt to balance the load across the two legs. This is exactly how your house is wired. If, in your home, you have gas water heater, stove, clothes dryer, furnace and no central AC, guess what? You have no 240v loads but you definitely have the capability to add one. I can't speak for all RV's but many have a breaker panel similar to a residential panel. Adjacent breaker slots are on separate hot logs. A double pole breaker, uses adjacent slots, gives you 240v. So if you want to add a 240v load, go for it. Just remember when they stick you in a 30 amp site because there are no 50 amp site available you won't be able to use it. You'll probably be out of luck when running on the generator since most don't provide 240v either.

Sorry, don't want to offend anyone, but so many people seem to think a 50 amp RV is some unique beast, it's not. A 30 amp RV is a whole different subject.
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Old 05-31-2017, 08:24 PM   #42
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After years of different configurations that have been posted by many it could be the electrician is quite sharp and experienced to know to ask...

50 amp plug is standard but he may have had to service DIY work that was not...
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