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Old 04-25-2016, 07:14 PM   #29
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The EMS you have is Intellitec. A recent post on IRV2 had the same symptoms and ultimately they had to replace the circuit board. I had my board fail due to a lightening strike.

M & M Electronics in Ohio provide technical support for these systems.
419-965-2662 ask for Chris or Mark.

There is a ~5 amp fuse on the board but that's probably not your problem since it is working intermittently. You can try pulling the fuse and turning off all power (including 12 volts) to the coach and wait for ~10 minutes to try and reset the board.

Good Luck


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Old 04-25-2016, 07:16 PM   #30
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What I am telling you is based on some assumptions since I a not there to see but in general it should help clear some stuff up.
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:49 PM   #31
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AHH, I enlarged the inverter panel and the breaker button says 30, so it is a 3000 watt inverter, if that is constantly popping you need to evaluate what all is running at once.
3000W? Maybe yes, maybe no.

When on shore or generator power most inverters (at least Magnum Energy) have a pass through capacity of 3600W (30A @ 120V). The inverter breaker size is designed to meet the pass through capacity. Even the cheapest Magnum Energy 2000W inverter must have a 30A breaker for that reason. Exceeding the pass through capacity will often pop the inverter's reset button before it trips the breaker.

On battery power A 2000W inverter can produce about 17A @ 120V. Trying to run a couple devices capable of 10A or more (example coffee maker and hair dryer) exceeds the inverter's capacity but not necessarily a breaker's limit.

1. If both devices are on separate circuits the inverter will fault and/or perhaps pop its reset button but should NOT pop either of the breakers.

2. If both devices are on the same circuit then it could pop either the breaker or the inverter's reset button. I tend to believe the breaker will go first if the inverter has a reasonable surge capacity.
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:54 PM   #32
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Good info skyboss, thanks for posting that.
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:01 PM   #33
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Just a quick comment and I'll try to digest some of this later. We don't have a fireplace. Not running ac - currently on OR coast and have no need for it. . Electric heat yes but never with mic or hair dryer. I do use the combo washer/dryer sometimes. Breaker has never tripped with that running although as with everything else I turn off stuff before I start it. When I use the microwave or hair dryer I always turn off electric water heater and past couple days now that I am using electric for frig I have learned to turn that off too. I figured that out after tripping the inverter two times in succession while trying to run the oven. I never run mic and hair dryer at same time. Maybe because of the way the inverter is wired that is just the way it is and maybe the EMS panel is going bad and thus the way it shows 30 amps at times. There are mysteries about this rig that will seemingly continue to haunt me but I may have to accept as the way it is.
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:57 PM   #34
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RVer402...it isn't fun figuring it all out but rewarding when you do.

I think you need to separate these 2 issues. The EMS is separate from the inverter. They may appear interrelated but except under strange situations they are not probably related. I'm only going to deal with the inverter because this will be a long message.

At the outset let's just clarify that your water heater, AC circuits 1 & 2, washer/dryer and dishwasher/fireplace are NOT inverted and do not pass through the inverter. This applies to any outlet that you find that doesn't work on the inverter.

The first thing I suggest you do to get this sorted out is to determine what outlets are inverted and what circuit they belong to. This is pretty easy to do but a bit tedious. The one circuit you do know already is your microwave and unless you can access its plug you shouldn't have any possibility of extra loads on it.

This is the tedious part but it can be very instructive on your integration of inverted (battery powered circuits) from those that are non-inverted (the rest).

1. Unplug everything you can reach from every outlet. Except leave your microwave and refrigerator plugged in.
2. Go to your inverter sub panel and turn off every breaker except SUB MAIN.
3. Disconnect from shore power but leave inverter on.
4. Now, turn on the microwave breaker and run it for a very short few seconds to validate it is running and not popping anything. Take notes and turn off breaker.
5. Repeat step 4 for for the refrigerator and if there is a vacuum test it too and turn off breaker when done. (Is it a residential refer?)
6. Turn on RECPS 1 and use either a plug testing device or a small 120V plug in device (like a small lamp) to test all outlets in coach. Any outlets you find that work are inverted on that breaker so use some labels to mark these outlets as R1 (short for RECPS 1). Turn off breaker.
7. Repeat step 6 for RECPS 2 except you can skip any "R1" outlets. Label breakers that work as R2 then turn off breaker.
8. Repeat step 6 for RECPS 3 except you can skip any "R1" & "R2" outlets. Label breakers that work as R3 then turn off breaker.

All other outlets that don't work are NOT inverted. You might label them as "NI" (not inverted) for now.

Hopefully you won't have any inverter problems if you do it this way. If you do have problems then it is likely that your inverter is having some kind of problem.

The combination of plugs labeled R1, R2 & R3 along with Microwave and Refrig/vacuum are all the circuits and plugs that are on your inverter. The combination of all these circuits can never exceed your inverter's (2000W?) rating except for some surge within your inverter's capabilities while on battery power. If on shore power you can not exceed 3600W (30 amps) and it is possible that you won't have much if any "surge" protection about that.

If at this point you haven't seen any problems you can start turning your breakers on starting with your refrig and microwave. I would run another test with both of these on at the same time to see what happens.

Now, go ahead and turn on RECPS 1 breaker and plug in anything that was in those outlets before you started this testing.

Repeat for RECPS 2 & 3.

If all is good you could again turn on the microwave. If it pops the inverter reset then you know that the microwave in combination with other devices is too much for your inverter on battery power. You will need to adjust accordingly.

Unfortunately, with a 2000W inverter you will have limited options on what you can run while on batteries. I am highly interested in how much power your refer and microwave can draw. What models of these do you have? It is highly possible that having a TV on and the refer cooling that the microwave (or any other high power device) could be a tipping point.

Now that you have completed all of this you should have all sub panel breakers on and you can return to shore power. Since everything was plugged back in by now, test the microwave again to see if it pops anything and take notes.

With all the labels and notes you can start to put together a picture of how much your inverter can do. It isn't fun but could help in the long run.

Keep in mind that the total power of any "R" circuit can not exceed 15A each. On top of that when on battery power the total power of all inverted circuits can not exceed about 18A and when on shore power 30A.

I know this sounds complicated and it can be if you don't have confidence in your ability to juggle all these numbers. Just take your time. Hopefully my suggestion make sense and will help you separate out inverter problems from EMS issues.

Sorry if this is too much information and it causes your eyes to roll to the back of your head. Just take your time.
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Old 04-25-2016, 10:00 PM   #35
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Quote:
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...
When on shore or generator power most inverters (at least Magnum Energy) have a pass through capacity of 3600W (30A @ 120V). The inverter breaker size is designed to meet the pass through capacity. Even the cheapest Magnum Energy 2000W inverter must have a 30A breaker for that reason. Exceeding the pass through capacity will often pop the inverter's reset button before it trips the breaker. ...
BTW, many inverters either are directly configured for 7200W (60A) pass through or can be wired that way. In those cases you will either find a double pole breaker with 30A each side or a single 60A inverter breaker.
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:04 AM   #36
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Sky Boss,

Wow - thank you SO much for all the time of putting all that down for me!! Just wow!! I will need to set aside some time to do this project but I can see how it can be well worth the time if I can follow it through! I'm pretty sure I can - you have spelled out the details well. Thank you!!

We have had many electrical issues with this rig and some very valid actual issues. Some of this now, this inverter issue for example, may well not be something wrong but merely understanding the limitations. If the latter is the case that's fine and I will rest my mind and live within the boundaries. But I continually worry that there's a problem there that needs to be fixed. So if I can follow thru and thus understand I would gladly put it to rest. What you have outlined is a way I can very potentially accomplish that and I sincerely appreciate your efforts to help me do that!

I had actually put the inverter issue out of my mind for a while as I had learned for the most part what I had to do to work around it. Then this week when it started happening again with the frig on electric (till I made that realization) that brought it rolling into my worry focus again. At the same time the EMS panel was also rearing its head and I began to wonder if the problems are connected. Have to admit today I've been already starting to realize they are likely not connected and since the inverter issue bothers me a lot more I will focus on that for now and go forward with your diagnostic plan which will also give me some great education about the rig in the process. It may be two or three days to make the time for this but I WILL do it and let you know what I learn! Thank you again SO much!!
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Old 04-26-2016, 01:43 AM   #37
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Jacwjames,

I came back to read again and try to digest a bit more and realized I had overlooked your post earlier. So many have contributed and I appreciate all so much! Thank you so much for the contact info on the EMS! I am coming more and more to believe that that is exactly the issue -that the board is failing - and that that and the inverter are likely unrelated. I am definitely going to make use of the contact info you shared. I appreciate it so much!

Lots of wonderful folks here! Thanks so much to all!
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:55 AM   #38
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OK let me and a bit also. I'm not sure if I missed it or you did not check it, but make sure that all of the wires from the shore power are tight in the box where they connect, also make sure the house side and the generator side are also tight.
I also hope that you are doing these checks and wire tightening with the shore power off and unplugged. I don't you to get electrocuted in the process.
Just my take on what you have stated. I had a fire in the electrical bay due to loose connections in the Transfer switch box and my indications were the EMS panel acting wonky.
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Old 04-27-2016, 06:03 PM   #39
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If after talking with M&M they determine that the circuit board is in fact bad you can order parts through them. In my case the circuit board was obsolete and I had to upgrade which included 2 new wiring harnesses and display. You can buy these items from alternate sources but you have to make sure you get the complete system retrofit based on what you have/need.

I was on the road also contributed to my problem. M&M agreed to ship it to an address I was going to. After it didn't arrive I called them and they had written down the wrong house number and the part was already headed back to them labeled "underliverable". Once they realized this they immediately sent another package via a different carrier overnight at no additional cost to me. Again great people to work with.

As to the installation, pretty straightforward, just make sure to pay attention to the wiring diagram as to which harness is for which function (don't ask how I know). I got it wired in and everything has been working for 18 months.

Good Luck
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:27 PM   #40
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If after talking with M&M they determine that the circuit board is in fact bad you can order parts through them. ...
GOOD PEOPLE!
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:49 PM   #41
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Great! Thanks for that info and the ditto from Sky Boss. Speaks well of them if you both liked them. And BTW as mentioned before hubby is away and he shared a thought that came to mind - our shore power cord was damaged at some point before we got the rig and has electrical tape over that area. He wondered if that could potentially be related to EMS issue. I will ask them when I call.

My plan is to complete the project outlined by Sky Boss and also to call the EMS folks mentioned over the next couple days. Will definitely post back to let you know what I learn.

Thanks so so much for all the info and kindness from all! It is sincerely appreciated!
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:37 AM   #42
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A damaged cord could definitely contribute/cause your problem. Your cord has 4 wires, 2 wires are hot L1 & L2. Each leg provides 30 amp @ 120 volt but when combined provide for the 50 amp service. If one of these is intermittently loosing contact then your service will drop from 50 amp to 30 amp.

Checking the cord would be the best course of action now to confirm it has continuity.
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