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Old 05-05-2016, 09:49 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
...
The kill a watt has a voltmeter display so having one plugged into an outlet that is on each supply , L1 and L2 will allow you at a glance to see what is there.

Just need to be sure the outlet is not on the inverter.
To take advantage of some previous work the OP did...

This means you will need to find outlets that you labeled as "NI" (NOT on R1, R2, R3, or connected to refer or microwave outlets).

The trick will be to know if an outlet is on Leg 1 or 2 (L1 or L2). looking at your main breaker panel, my best guess would be that the outlet to your washer/dryer is on one leg and the outlet feeding the dishwasher/fireplace would be on the other leg.

To do that easily you will need 2 digital monitors like these.

A cheaper option with a little less capability.

You would then plug one of these in the washer/dryer outlet and the other into the dishwasher/fireplace outlet and keep comparing. If you are having a problem anywhere from the power post to that outlet you should see them have radically different voltage readouts or one might show some kind of fault.

BTW...it would be normal to see minor differences (+/- 3) volts if nothing is running on both circuits and even slightly larger differences if something is actually running.
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:33 PM   #72
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All the outlets are on circuits involved with the inverter. I did find one yesterday that I missed that I wasn't aware of previously so I haven't checked that one yet but likely on one of those circuits as well. Maybe I'll wait on additional devices since that is the case.

Thanks for info about trying to identify L1 and L2. It looks like those outlets are not accessible - not for me anyway. The washer/dryer one I see where it is but is encased inside a wood panel and I'm not going to try to get in there myself. Dishwasher no longer exists but I think that one is back out of my accessibility as well and there is no fireplace. However, last night I looked closer at the surge protector that we have as part of the connection to shore power. It shows the various light combinations or lack thereof and what they mean. Some of those possibilities include L1 and L2. So if there was a problem on one of those lines at the pedestal, is it accurate to say that it would show up as a problem on the surge protector and therefore there is not a problem with the cord or at the pedestal? (The lights are all lit appropriately ) Just asking as clearly I don't know. I can post a pic of the surge protector if that would help. I'm not there at the moment or I would do that now.

I spoke briefly with Mark at M&M this morning but cell connection was not good to have a conversation. Went to another location later to try again but they were busy and I had commitments this afternoon, so calling them again is top of the list for first thing in the morning.

Continued thanks!
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:48 PM   #73
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... I can post a pic of the surge protector if that would help. I'm not there at the moment or I would do that now. ...
That would help. The good news is that if you have a surge protector that is worth anything it could be key in eliminating power post issues. Once we see your surge protector we can go from there on that subject.
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:20 AM   #74
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Here's the photo
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:38 AM   #75
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Re photo of surg protector, I meant to mention that that was taken in daylight obviously but it did look like all the lights were on as far as I could tell in the daylight. In the photo that third light is not so certain but I did think all were on. I checked just now and they are all clearly on now in the dark and were the same last night.

For what it's worth, since I have not been operating the electric furnace (which I'm not so sure now was operating in the first place and at least partially defaulting to the gas furnace) and have turned off propane, I have not even once seen the EMS go to 30 amps. It's been at least 36 hours now since I have seen anything but 50 - I could have missed of course but I was consistently seeing it once or twice a day in recent days when I've been watching it more closely. Also, another thing to note as it's easy to lose stuff in an ongoing thread like this, but I don't think it's at the pedestal as the EMS problem was I know for sure occurring at a couple of prior parks. That doesn't of course eliminate the power cord, but again I'm hoping maybe the surge protector could help define that? At least each thing we can eliminate brings us hopefully one step closer to finding the source.

I guess if/when it goes to 30 again I should immediately check the surg protector lights and see if that is potentially helpful.

Hoping to speak with M&M Friday morning.

Ongoing thanks!
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:51 AM   #76
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Re photo of sure protector ... I checked just now and they are all clearly on now in the dark and were the same last night.

...

I guess if/when it goes to 30 again I should immediately check the surg protector lights and see if that is potentially helpful.

...
Good plan to do that. If the surge protector still looks good at that point then it be a good indicator that any problem is after it. It certainly doesn't rule out a bad EMS controller card but I think a good, RV smart, electrician still might be in order before spending $300 for a control card.
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:57 AM   #77
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Thanks, Sky Boss. I will now also be in tune to the surg protector both for this and future. I am definitely learning from this process - slowly but steadily.

I just spoke to M&M. He said the first thing is to see if any breakers are turned off as if any breakers are turned off that can cause the EMS to show strange readings like I have been getting. I immediately knew that was the case as dishwasher was removed earlier this year and in becoming more familiar with breaker boxes recently I knew that one was off as I had noticed that and it made sense. They likely turned it off at the shop when it was removed. I also know I had not noticed this problem before that time. So fingers crossed - hope that is it.

We do clearly have something going on with the electric furnace and no idea if that has any connection to this as well but hoping not - hoping this simple measure resolves a second problem! I have also located someone who is willing to move the rig for me if it needs to go in to address the furnace and battery issues! So things are moving in the right direction, thanks to help here and a couple of other new RVer friends! What an awesome community! Thanks so very much to all!!
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:47 PM   #78
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Had a similar issue while in Missoula, MT last year. Service Tech came out and determined one of the 50amp legs coming out of the EMS control board was bad. Orders the part from REV Group and picked it up while in Oregon, cost of the board was around $230. Thirty minute "plug-play" installation, but make sure you mark the lines for in coming and out going circuits.

Good luck....
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