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Old 10-22-2010, 03:22 PM   #1
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50A Outlet Box Ground?

I'm installing a 50A outlet box out where I park the motorhome. I have two 6 gauge hots going out there and one 6 gauge neutral. Should I run a ground wire from the box directly to a ground stake? Or should I run a ground wire 150 feet back to the source? Does it really matter?

Thanks.
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Old 10-22-2010, 03:40 PM   #2
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If I were doing it I'd run a ground all the way back to the box that supplies the power. As an extra, a second ground rod located near where the outlet is located won't hurt but it should be also connected to the ground at the power box. But, I'm not a licensed electrician.
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Old 10-22-2010, 03:43 PM   #3
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Back to the box,

Details here.
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Old 10-22-2010, 05:01 PM   #4
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What size wire for the ground? Would 10 gauge solid be enough for the ground?
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Old 10-22-2010, 05:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig M View Post
I'm installing a 50A outlet box out where I park the motorhome. I have two 6 gauge hots going out there and one 6 gauge neutral. Should I run a ground wire from the box directly to a ground stake? Or should I run a ground wire 150 feet back to the source? Does it really matter?
You must establish that you have 120Volts only on L1 & L2 to the Neutral. The Neutral wire needs to be the same size as the L1 & L2 wires in this case you are OK with a #6. You also need a GREEN wire or bond wire between the metal boxes from the service to the 50A receptacle panel you're installing outside. Minimum size is a #8.

If you measure the voltage between L1 & L2 you should get 220V. Only use the receptacle that you installed if both L1 & L2 to the Neutral lug measure 120 volts.

Do not tie the bond and the neutrals together on the same bus bar. The Neutral is a current carrying conductor while the bond is not.

There are 4 lugs on a 50A plug (cord cap). L1 & L2, Neutral and Ground (Bond).
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Old 10-22-2010, 06:16 PM   #6
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I ran 165 ft from the feeder panel to my garage. Electrical inspector told me to ground to the ground rod in the garage since it was so far back to the feeder panel. You can pick up a copy of the NEC at the library, or ask your local inspector to be sure. He's the one who will sign it off when you are done.
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Old 10-22-2010, 06:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Should I run a ground wire from the box directly to a ground stake? Or should I run a ground wire 150 feet back to the source? Does it really matter?

Thanks.
It does matter. One of the main purposes of the ground wire is to trip the circuit breaker(s) feeding the receptacle if there is a fault between a hot & ground. Although driving a stage sounds like you are making a ground, the earth is likely to have enough resistance between the new stake & the bond at the service entrance panel that a ground fault won't trip the breaker. In almost all cases, a ground wire must be run along with the neutral & hots. In some cases, the local authority will also require a driven ground rod at the receptacle connected to the ground only (no neutral connection).
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Old 10-22-2010, 07:27 PM   #8
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I Installed a 50 amp box for my rig,the line was 90 ft. from the main electrical panel. I used 4 wire 6 ga. 2 hot 1 neutral and 1 ground.
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Old 10-22-2010, 08:31 PM   #9
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I had my 50 amp installed when we built the garage and the ground is back to the main power panel, plus it has an 8' copper clad rod driven in the ground at the garage and at the shop.

ken
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Old 10-23-2010, 06:22 PM   #10
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Thanks for all the help! It's been very helpful.
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:45 PM   #11
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To summarize: There must be 4 wires going from your new receptacle back to the main panel. Two hots, one neutral, and one ground. At your receptacle box, the neutral and ground MUST NOT be connected together. This can only be done at the main panel.

Whether a local ground rod is required is up to the the electrical inspector.
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:06 PM   #12
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To summarize: There must be 4 wires going from your new receptacle back to the main panel. Two hots, one neutral, and one ground. At your receptacle box, the neutral and ground MUST NOT be connected together. This can only be done at the main panel.

Whether a local ground rod is required is up to the the electrical inspector.
Good summary. That is how I am doing it. At this point, I am not going to bother grounding at the new box.

Copper wire sure is expensive. I was looking at aluminum, but decided to stick with copper. The RV is my wife's hobby. Last night I showed her the installed box and told her it was an early Christmas present.

This will sure make getting ready for our cold Feb. Disney trips easier....
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Old 10-26-2010, 05:56 AM   #13
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RV Electric

Here is a site I found on here, If you are going to do the work yourself or hire someone ,this is important.
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Old 10-26-2010, 02:11 PM   #14
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RV Electric

Here is a site I found on here, If you are going to do the work yourself or hire someone ,this is important.
Yup, yup, that was linked earlier in the thread. "Open Neutrals" got me a little nervous. I shared that info with my dad.
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