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Old 11-09-2007, 06:42 PM   #15
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Actually the RC rating is about the only one to use since it's about the only universal rating on the books without calling the manufacturers. At the end of the day it's all about the time anyway.

Would have rather had T-125's, but not at the going price. Yikes!
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Old 11-10-2007, 11:05 AM   #16
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">RC, which is measured as minutes at a 25 amp discharge rate, is one good way to measure deep cycle capacity. Amp-hours is the other and both work as long as you are comparing apples to apples. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

what you need to watch is that the rate at which you draw current is going to make a difference in how much energy capacity you have available. The AH you will get at the 25 amp RC rate is not going to be the same AH as you will get at the 5 amp (typical group 27 12v) 20 hour rate. The difference can be 20% or more depending on conditions and batteries.

and, again, do not think you can compare 6v battery AH ratings to 12v battery AH ratings without adjusting for the voltage! That is being done here and it can easily lead to misunderstandings.

Also note that, according to experiments noted at batteryuniversity.com, lead acid batteries aren't very consistent. Their capacity can vary by 15% or more from one cycle to the next.

So be careful comparing batteries. How you use them needs to flavor how you interpret specifications. You cost vs benefit analysis needs to also keep in mind that the precision of any measure of battery benefit is very loose so differences of 10% or more don't mean much.
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Old 11-10-2007, 10:52 PM   #17
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by BryanL:
do not think you can compare 6v battery AH ratings to 12v battery AH ratings without adjusting for the voltage! That is being done here and it can easily lead to misunderstandings. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Actually we were comparing multiple 12V batteries vs. multiple strings of 6v'ers. One 12 & 2ea. 6v can be compared Ah to Ah, because they're the same.
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Old 11-11-2007, 04:41 AM   #18
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Yes, it is all about time but time is dependnet on the discharge rate, as BryanL points out. The RC number is a good indicator only if the rate is around 25 amps/hour. And the amp-hour value (20 hour rate) is meaningful only if you are discharging at somewhere around 5-6 amps/hour/battery.

RVs without inverters tend to discharge at about 5-10 amps/hour, so with 2 or more batteries the time should be consistent with the amp-hour figures. But if a bigger power draw like an inverter is used very much, then RC will be more accurate.
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Old 11-12-2007, 11:03 PM   #19
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I remember 5A/hr... Weren't those the days?
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:29 AM   #20
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Why is the warranty on the U2200 only 6 mos with no prorate and the SRM-27 30 mos and prorated? I have space for 2-U2200 or 3-SRM-27B which is the better choice? thanks
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Old 11-17-2007, 12:24 AM   #21
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Sorry, I didn't see the question until just now.

I noticed this warranty as well and emailed Interstate to ask "What the H&*ll?"

While I don't necessarily like the answer, I do understand where they're coming from.

See below:

----------------------snip-------------------------------
In the case of the U2200 it is true that that the battery only carries a six month warranty because it is a Golf Cart battery. A seasonal battery. The interesting thing is that the R.V. industries has started using the batteries as house batteries in R.V.'s because of the amount of amper hours that the U2200 can give the RV'er that does a lot of dry camping. The U2200 gives those that do a lot of dry camping double the amount of amper hours they would get from regular deep-cycle batteries.



The regular deep cycle batteries that are use as house batteries do have a better warranty but do not have the amper hours. The warranty on regular deep-cycle batteries is 12 months free replacement and a total 30 months pro-rated. So it is a give and take thing. Do I want more amper hours than I am going to give up warranty time. Or do I want longer warranty and have to give up amper hours.



Now days with the R.V.'s gaining more electrical stuff on them and folks not wanting to run their generators to charge batteries more and more manufacturers are being asked to put the golf cart batteries in the R.V.'s and several have made it a practice to use nothing but golf cart batteries as their house batteries. So the battery manufacturers are look at how they can warranty the U2200's with out getting in the trap of warranting batteries that came out of a golf cart and being told that they came out of a coach.



There are only several major battery manufacturers in North America and as soon as they work out the warranty issues, we marketers will change the warranties. I hope that this helps. But if you have any questions call me at the number listed below.



Gary Parks

Consumer Customer Service

Interstate Battery Systems of America

888-772-3600

--------------------snip-----------------
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Old 11-17-2007, 10:44 AM   #22
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Seasonal battery? I guess Interstate doesn't sell many golf cart batteries in Florida, Arizona or Southern California?

The fact is, the warranty cost is built into the price. Golf cart batteries are subject to severe use in a golf cart, probably harder use (abuse) than any RV, so the warranty is short to keep the price down. Golf carts use even more batteries than a motorhome - 6 is typical - so price is a big factor.
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Old 11-17-2007, 11:10 AM   #23
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If more people realized that a warranty is nothing but an insurance policy that you pay for in the purchase price of any article, you would come to the understanding of how things are priced.
An automobile that has a warranty for 100K miles and bumper to bumper coverage has enough money in the price to cover the cost of repairs/replacing for 100K miles.
I know it's not quite that simple, but you get the idea.
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