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Old 03-19-2016, 10:07 AM   #15
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Jim,
You are spot on. The reason I'm talking about removing the radiator is because my CAC cooler has at least one hole in it and I am losing a ton of power. Looking at the radiator I've got a bunch of bent fans on the inside likely from the fan throwing rocks & debris into it. So it is my opinion only that I'm likely going to be replacing this complete at this time. If I'm lucky I'll be able to salvage some or all radiator and CAC cooler. I'm crossing my fingers. I do plan on changing all of the coolant at this time and even considering water pump and thermostat because they're relatively cheap parts and everything else around it's taken apart at that time and it would be convenient.
You telling me about your exhaust manifold bolts all coming right out only soaking them in penetrating oil one day is the best news I've heard. Drilling bolts out of a perfectly good engine is something I cringe at and have done it multiple times but I still cringe every time. I plan on tearing the unit apart on the first and I'm going to be soaking it every other day every three days with penetrating oil until then. Everything you've mentioned from the removal and from looking at the unit it all looks relatively simple. I'll be building two ramps to back the coach up on to lift the rear end and then blocking the frame up so when the airbags deflate the coach stays up. Anyway a reason I shouldn't block the frame up? Potential damage to the airbags? I can't see how but that's my plan
Kris.
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:23 AM   #16
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Blocking the frame will do no damage to the air springs. If the radiator isn't leaking, a fin comb should fix it back good as new. While out you might have it pressure tested and scoped to be sure, but replacement likely not needed.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:26 PM   #17
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Thanks bflinn
That's my plan. To straighten find and test everything now.

Jim,
After reading about th engine temps you listed has me wondering why the coach would not really get over the 160 range. I drove it a about an hour ish and the trans temp was up but I was keeping a close eye on engine temp and it stayed the 160. Hmmm. Gonna go drive it again before tear down. I would love to see or hear the fan go into high speed, get a finger in the thermovalve operation. I.e. If it's working properly now ?

Don,
Not sure I can tackle the mod needed to make the Johnson unit work. It was my initial thought, but I'm thinking the work needed just can't justify the cost of me paying someone to cut that unit up and re weld it all back up to fit. I'm not ruling it out yet but the sizes don't seam like it gonna work. It's a good idea tho. This site rocks. Thanks guys.
Kris
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:26 PM   #18
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Are you relying on the dash gauges for the temps, mine never really reflected accurately.

I invested in a Silverleaf system and get good info. I track Engine & Transmission Temp, oil pressure, turbo boost, volts and trip data.

That's how I was testing my fan control and found it was kicking on at 180F. My thermovalve was damaged during the radiator change (besides having the lines crossed). I was not able to get it completely fixed until after we got back from a trip out west. My temperatures never moved much above 180F since the fan was running wide open after the thermostat opened.

When you start the rig the fan will run at a relatively low speed and will not move to a higher speed until 185F. If your fan is noticeably loud then it may be running at high speed, that is what caught my attention, knew something was wrong and started to investigate. Swapped lines and got it to go to an idle at start up but went to high speed at 180F.

I installed the new thermo valve last Nov and at least I could get the fan not to go to high speed after thermostat opened. Have yet to take it on a hard drive yet but the day is coming.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:26 AM   #19
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Jim,
That's makes sense, and yes I'm using the gauges on the dash, prolly old and original to the coach. Maybe they are not giving me proper/accurate info ? One thing I know is this coach needs a pyro gauge to monitor the exhaust temps, that I am prolly gonna do now. I need to get the engine temps above 185 to kick that fan into high speed. Just confirm proper operation prior to removing parts. It wil at least give me a piece of mind, or another item to address.
? You mentioned Siverleaf. I have found some banks gauges. Not exactly cheap, do u suppose they would give good performance. Looks like I could just replace the gauges in the dash and these would drop in.
Ok. You also mentioned the a condenser cooling pack would be attached to the rad/CAC pack. Another helpful person here mentioned it would not. Again I haven't dropped unit yet and I do have that cooler on the bottom like u mentioned (tranny) ? And I also have a cooler on out side of CAC (the 1'st cooler on pack) I thought was tranny cooler ? I'm am going to have to chase these lines and see where they go? Determine what cooler here is what. I pretty sure I want a separate tranny cooler. I don't have internal I don't think but from what I've read but others have mentioned about ruining transmissions So I know I want a independent tranny pack.
Good luck on your themo Valve operation, hope you get to stretch her legs and see soon.
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:36 AM   #20
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The Silverleaf system is actually a software program that you can down load for free but you need the module to be able to translate the information into something usable. Here is their website

VMSpc | SilverLeaf Electronics, Inc.

You can actually buy the module from here cheaper
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/categ...verleaf&Submit=

You use a small tablet or laptop to monitor the information, it's a good system but not cheap. Fairly easy to set up and you can arrange and monitor your information however you want.

A cheaper option would be to get a Scan gauge, ~$150, not as robust as the Silverleaf but gets the job done.

I sent you a PM to communicate off line
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:00 AM   #21
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Have you tried Ebay for parts? Just a suggestion.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:44 PM   #22
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Trying to list some pictures, havign some issues posting more than 1 pic ?
Got the ramp built Friday.
Lifted the caoch 12" on the ramp, backed the rig up on the ramp and its ready to be disassembled next weekend.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:50 PM   #23
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With the slope of the side of driveway, i can stand up in the engine bay and work on everything, I'm a little shocked as I'm 6' and I know I need a ladder to even get to the front of the engine.
Getting all my 7 P's checklist crossed off per say to start this.
Pre or Prior Planning Prevent's Piss Poor Performance.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:51 PM   #24
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Looks like you got plenty of clearance to get the radiator out. Since you have a tractor to help with the project it should be fairly straight forward.

Good Luck & keep us posted
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:55 PM   #25
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Got the rear radiator painted cover removed, easy, just 4 metal screws, and remove the 3 pieces of trim metal skirting around the cold pack itself.
I have the frame blocked up at multiple points to keep any sag out. Its not real pretty, but solid enough for me to feel safe.
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:01 PM   #26
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Yes Jim, I am thinking I can slide the forks with a pallet under the cold pack and block up to the bottom of it while un bolting it, lower it down and out, nice and easy.
Does anyone know a good way of getting to the front cold pack bolt, its really tight, guess they got it in it will come out, but any tricks ?



Yes, I sure have been looking on ebay, and pretty much everyone out there for these parts. I am coming up short on locating the coolant steel pipes that have rust and corrosion on them, I am going to contact Monaco this week to see if they have any lines on them, otherwise I guess I am going to find someone to make them?

Thanks
Kris
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:40 PM   #27
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There was a post on the Yahoo Monacoers group from an individual that hat a Stainless Steel pipe made for a reasonable price. I'll see if I can find the info.

For clarification, what is the cold pack bolt???
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:42 PM   #28
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So this is my mess, a pic of the exhaust manifold with at least 1 hole I cant get a image of. I have been soaking it for 1 week now, the pic was before. The transmission cooler line has build up all around it, I assume something is of has leaked there. The water/ coolant pipe (that doesnt look that bad in pi, it is) by the exhaust with all the holes in it. lol
So I am going to start with the exhaust 1st, get it off, get down pipes off, get turbo and all CAC lines off and out of the way, drain radiator coolant, disconect tranny lines and plug ASAP with end plug of a size yet to be determined. plugs in all hydo lines. Swing Condensor out of way.
Drop cold pack and clear up more room to get to the manifold bolts, I'm saving those for last...cant wait....but I plan to keep soaking them in penitrating oil untill I get to them.
I'm sure I'm am missing something, and I am always open to suggestions, .02, whatever ? info you can offer, just never done this before.
I know this was only going to be a radiator and CAC removal and repair, but this porgect has turned into a bit more than the title says.......

Jim,
Cold pack bolt is a 1 1/16" nut and bolt with rubber vibration boot on it, looks to be whats holding all of the weight of radiator, CAC tranny cooler that I'm calling the COLD PACK after someone else reffered it to that. I'm sure I have the wrong terminoligy so just kinda rolling with it.

Sorry in advance for the head ache looking at the exhaust pictures that got flipped upside down somehow.

Kris
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