Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-17-2016, 09:57 AM   #57
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Smack dab in the middle
Posts: 58
Got a few things done last night...... got the AC condenser bracket made up and installed, it's solid and good to go.
Got a coat of paint on CAC piping and radiator piping. I didn't do it to the muffler......on the fence on painting that....From the pic I just started...It looks real clean now and when I get some better pics I will post em.
Notice the 22 degree elbows on the thermo valve....hope this works or will be looking for a new thermo valve.
Need to run the the fin comb over the AC condenser to straighten as many fins as possible, I did ding it in a few spots on accident, nothing major just needs a little straightening.
Got the AW46 hydraulic fluid filled, the coolant system is filled with distilled water, both are getting flushed and filters after a small run time.
Got 4 gallons of transdyn in, and I'm told that will be enough to start up and get the rig off the ramps for accurate reading. I plan on flushing this too just because I have found some particles from manufacturing the new radiator, oil, and tranny coolers, I don't want contamination down the road.
Decided to let all the fluids sit for a few days to settle & will top them all up to cold fill lines for initial start up before re checking
Silverleaf should be here any day and I'm ready to wrap this project up, hopefully Ill be on the road heading for Duluth (about a 8 hours each way) in a few weeks to go see some friends and test the legs out on the coach and the work.....
I do have to fab up one last bracket for the COLD PACK to stabilize the side to side movement. The old unit had a tab to mount to and this does not, no big deal, but will get to that in next few nights.
I will have some finished product pics coming soon
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	PIC 110.jpg
Views:	32
Size:	330.1 KB
ID:	127269   Click image for larger version

Name:	PIC 111.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	221.6 KB
ID:	127270  

Click image for larger version

Name:	PIC 112.jpg
Views:	26
Size:	237.3 KB
ID:	127271  
__________________

__________________
Krutzmart is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 05-17-2016, 04:36 PM   #58
Community Moderator
 
barmcd's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 4,397
That's looking good!
__________________

__________________
Dennis and Katherine
2000 Monaco Dynasty
barmcd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2016, 06:22 PM   #59
Senior Member
 
jacwjames's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 4,597
The fittings on the thermovalve should work fine, they shouldn't add to much additional restriction and the way the thermos valve works there really isn't that much oil going through it.

Was all the sheet metal intact before you started, make sure you secure it, when I got my rig back from Cummins, after ~50 mile drive both sides were falling off. I also used a caulk in a couple places to prevent it from vibrating and rattling.
__________________
Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
jacwjames is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2016, 08:13 AM   #60
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Smack dab in the middle
Posts: 58
It's getting there, but thank you

The sheet metal you are referring to? Is that the 4 pcs around the radiator just inside the outside cover vent I assume? It appears they are for air direction, keep air from getting away from cooling fins.
They were screwed in pretty good. But caulk is a grand idea, think I will uninstall them and do that too.
Thanks for that.
The other sheet metal around the muffler is a heat shield in the shape of an L. as far as I can tell. It is bolted at 4 points and will vibrate some but it's on good and I would think just melt caulk off.

Silverleaf showed up last night. Plan to get that ready and re check fluids.
Hope to get my last bracket made, installed and start this rig Friday. Need to get it off the Ramps so I can get accurate fluid readings.
__________________
Krutzmart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2016, 10:30 AM   #61
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Smack dab in the middle
Posts: 58
ok, I need some help...... I got the coach fired up, off the ramps...checked and filled the transmission....took it for a drive and the boost was not kicking in right I don't think.. THE TURBO is the part I didn't replace right there because before I removed it was reading 24 psi boost on analog gauge...well now I have the silver leaf hooked up and can tell you none of my gauges read exact to the silverleaf.....I trust silver leaf.
The problem.... the waste gate seams to be stuck..... I freed it up, oiled with pac brake oil and I think...reset the waste gate... possible the problem (me) after I could only get 16 psi from it....now I am going to undo my reset tomorrow and put it back to the original spot it was ( I marked it ) and see if I can get back to 24 psi..


Got the new pack brake working and that's cool, slows down nicely.

Also, I still cannot get my engine temp to go over 180.....I know it has a new thermostat, but was told the thermo valve will kick fan into high speed at 185.
I ran coach for about a half n hour and 178 was the high ?? wouldn't go higher...

Can someone explain a few things. The wastegate. if it is loosened does it cut boost at lower psi, and if tighten does it raise boost cut off or relief at higher psi ?.
May be in need of a new turbo, mine...well it looks like bad, but because of my boost on gauge I just assumed it was working.....something is clearly not working right.
Any other idears........ I read about a barometric sensor causing a none boost scenario...I AM NOT SEEING ANY CODES... OR WARNINGS....

I have searched for leaks all CAC piping is leak free...and do plan on replacing v-band clamps.. I may have some slight leakage there because of how the band clamps may have form fitted the old connection....but other than this issue I have the coach up and running and need to make sure this is right....
Pics have some dust on them from the gravel drive, but got the coolant flushed and going to head onto the transmission and hydraulic oil flush.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	PIC118.jpg
Views:	26
Size:	337.6 KB
ID:	127678   Click image for larger version

Name:	PIC116.jpg
Views:	27
Size:	355.7 KB
ID:	127679  

Click image for larger version

Name:	PIC117.jpg
Views:	29
Size:	204.8 KB
ID:	127680  
__________________
Krutzmart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2016, 09:52 PM   #62
Senior Member
 
jacwjames's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 4,597
Unless you have the ability to really run the engine hard it will probably not get hot. Mine will stay at ~180F unless climbing hills etc.

If you have the manual it describes how the thermo valve works. It will run at an idle until temp reaches 185 and then proportionally ramps up to high speed with max being 197F. I seldom see my coach get this hot and seldom heard the fan running on a higher speed prior to Cummins screwing up my thermo valve.

From what you describe it is working the way it should.

No idea on the boost other then to make sure all connections are tight. Before I had my CAC rebuilt I could get ~22 psi, after I can get 24 psi. If you were getting this before you rebuilt I would guess your turbo is working and it migh be a loose connection.

I agree, trust the Silverleaf, I don't even look at my dash guages any more.
__________________
Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
jacwjames is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2016, 11:41 AM   #63
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Smack dab in the middle
Posts: 58
Got a chance to put some time into the coach, I think the Thermo valve is working properly
The turbo is working, Properly??.. Waste gate was seized...I have it free and oiled really good now...I used 3 drops last time....well I used 5 this time Its free and boosted to 18-20 psi after un doing about 1/2 of my adjustment from other day. I am going to re set it at its original setting prior to any work, and I'm guessing I can get it back to the 23-24 psi range and turbo is useable shape.

What kind of silver leaf readings are you guys getting from your coaches in the HP and torque #'s are you getting from silver leaf ?, I would like something to compare to.

I am getting about 93-98 degrees on manifold temps, engine temp will stay under 181 and stays like 174-178 under heavy driving, sill havn't hit 2 phase in fan speed yet, but havnt been able to get over 185 degrees on temp....Trans temp run about 180 under heavy and 150-160 normal.
At wide open throttle or WOT under 95% ~ load like bouncing around 975-1250 ft lbs of torque and 390-400 hp in 2 or 3 gear, 1900-2200 rpm putting pedal down going up a hill. Does all of this sound accurate ? Of course that's at WOT under normal driving the numbers stay lower .

Does anyone have some information on a computer re program for ECM to get 330 isc to 350 ? I read a few post ( on here ) about a re flash for ECM ? who has done this, what is your experiance ?

What is everyone getting out of there 8.3 isc 330 on the silver leaf ?
Thanks
Kris
__________________
Krutzmart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2016, 08:30 PM   #64
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 230
I used Lexan to replace the metal shrouds around the CAC and radiator.
It is bendable and heat resistant. I bent flat sides to face the CAC and screwed it into the fiberglass and used red RTV to seal it up tight. All the air goes thru the CAC/radiator.
The metal shrouds made holes in the original CAC.
__________________

__________________
sjholt is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
removal, radiator, monaco



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Radiator & CAC Replace Dutch Star Don Monaco Owner's Forum 11 07-25-2016 10:39 AM
Source for a CAC (Charge Air Cooler) 2002 Windsor jacwjames Monaco Owner's Forum 11 06-21-2015 12:33 PM
2004 Mandalay Cat 350 radiator CAC cleaning to solve over heating issue Rglick Class A Motorhome Discussions 3 02-04-2015 05:42 PM
Rear radiator / CAC cleaning Wizard Freightliner Motorhome Chassis Forum 33 02-23-2014 08:33 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.