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Old 09-11-2008, 01:42 PM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Getting help locally from someone that knows what they are doing would be my best advise. All the wiring diagrams in the world aren't going to help someone that doesn't know how to read them. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Amen to that one Jerry!

<span class="ev_code_PURPLE">A blonde said, 'I was worried that my Mechanic might try to rip me off.
I was relieved when he told me all
I needed was turn signal fluid.'</span>

Thanks for all the tips guys . . . another thing I get to pay someone to check out for me, huh? Mechanics LOVE me!!! And so will the RV light salespeople REAL soon!!

(Oh - by the way....My MOS in the Marines was Communications and Electronics . . . until I finally convinced my CO that the recruiters had made a GRAVE mistake putting me in that slot! Even though I aced the ASVABS and showed a high aptitude for electronics (go figure ) when it comes to math and techy stuff, the brain shuts COMPLETELY DOWN! Thank goodness you guys are here and have patience to answer all my questions!!)
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Old 09-11-2008, 02:30 PM   #16
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GraciesMom, before you pay a mechanic I suggest you call Winnie service and describe the problem to them. There must be a problem somewhere if some of the lights do work on 12v. It may be a breaker or something. The service guys in FC will be very helpful in telling you things to check or telling you you need a service technician.
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Old 09-11-2008, 03:52 PM   #17
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WOW! I'm sorry I suggested the wiring diagrams.
Other suggestions such as the 12V disconnect switch and the 12V Coach batteries should be checked, I hope it's only the disconnect switch because if you turn it on while hooked to shore power your batteries should start charge. Although if your coach batteries are dead I doubt your generator would start. Perhaps a friend in our travel group could give it a quick look see. The location of the switched should be in your owners manual.
Good Luck
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Old 09-11-2008, 04:03 PM   #18
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One way to check to see if they are 120 or 12 volt is to remove the bulb, most incandescant bulbs (old fashioned) will have the voltage marked on them, or take the bulb to a lighting showroom or big box store (Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, ect.) and they will be able to tell you. If it's flouresent, it will not be as easy, because those have devices that can operate on a variety of voltages. Check out marine stores for a larger selection of 12 volt light fixtures, will not be any cheaper, but should have a larger selection. House boats can have pretty fancy 12 volt lights. Rewiring for a different voltage can get very expensive, so that route is not suggested.
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Old 09-11-2008, 04:55 PM   #19
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">If it's flouresent, it will not be as easy, </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yep, fluorescent bulbs are neither 12v nor 120v. The ballast in the fixture determines which voltage the fixture is.

The original post is about a 1999 Itasca coach. I would be extremely surprised/shocked/amazed/etc to learn that there are any stock/OEM installed light fixtures in the coach that are not 12v. I don't believe Winnebago does that. I agree with other comments that indicate if some light fixtures do not work when not connected to shore power or generator, something else is wrong/battery disconnect tripped, etc!!
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Old 09-11-2008, 05:44 PM   #20
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Hillbilly2,
That's the right and only advice she should follow, pull a bulb & look at it, or take it to a rv place to see what type it is.
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Old 09-11-2008, 08:00 PM   #21
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You know - now that I think about it - the light set up was the same in my 2002 Teton. The flat cheap lights worked when I boondocked without the generator on but none of the "big" lights worked unless the rig was plugged in or the generator was running.

I was going to take it to Camping World for the top to toe check before hitting the road anyway. I think this is one of the things they check.

You guys (and gals!) have been GREAT with the information and suggestions as always. THANK YOU!!
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Old 09-11-2008, 09:53 PM   #22
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Having a shop verify things may be a good idea, although I would be leery of some of the folks at CW giving you an educated opinion or answer.
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Old 09-12-2008, 05:48 AM   #23
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I would have to agree with Jeff on that one.
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Old 09-12-2008, 06:02 AM   #24
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The basic questions here sound "operational" (how does it work?) versus "functional" (why doesn't it work?)

Jeff's theory that the lighting is 12v (battery) could easily be proved by a fellow camper, familiar with the physical difference between a 12 volt and a "normal" 120v lighting fixture.
Assuming that all the lighting is 12 volt, the trouble shooting would start with why it only works on shore power and, as Jeff correctly points out, looking for a shutoff switch and using a meter on the house batteries would be the first steps. An honest facility should be able to do all of that but I do understand about how non-technical people are often taken advantage of by some dealers and shops.

It is a shame that one of us who does our own work is not closer to you. I'd bet that in 15 minutes, we'd have a lot more answers without costing you anything.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:34 AM   #25
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Mr Forwood beat me. I'd look at my battery switch. Gracie's mom, where are you exactly and maybe someone is close. I looked at the profile but missed it.
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Old 09-12-2008, 03:08 PM   #26
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I'm still stuck in Denver, Colorado - I'm heading out the first week of October NO MATTER WHAT!
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Old 09-12-2008, 05:03 PM   #27
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OK, Denver based DIYs. Can anyone help GraciesMom out?

If your route takes you through the Dallas area (you probably want to wait on that until Ike gets through), let me know. We are a bit out of the way if you are heading for the RGV but I'd be glad to help you.

Charlie
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Old 09-17-2008, 04:04 AM   #28
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No matter what confusion you may have, Winnie did not put 120 Volt lights in any of their coaches going all the way back to the begining.

I believe Grassiesmom will find that she is not getting 12 volt from the coach batteries when not connected to 120 Volt. Either the disconnect switch is not working OR maybe the coach batteries are not working. Either the batteries have been boiled dry or they are no longer functional.
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