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Old 06-29-2018, 01:00 PM   #15
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I would follow what I stated. You need to drain and flush entire system. Don’t just change dryer, that goo is already throughout the system.
Go to www.evanstempcon.com and look under support tab for their manuals. Tell ya everything ya ever wanted to know on their system [emoji1303]
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahoona View Post
New info, couple of questions please?

New Info. Found the thermostat under other numbers. I ordered.

I got what I needed to make my new manifold work and got these readings.

System on, Compressor off:
Low side 90, High side 100
AC on compressor on
Low side 93 High side 100
Is this enough pressure to run the system or do I need to add.



I followed wires and located the thermostat. I had thought that it was a thermostat for cabin temp but it appears that it may be for detecting coil freeze up as it is on the air-box in front of the passenger foot-well. The wire from the control panel to the thermostat has 12v. The thermostat tests open circuit and no power comes out.It appears to have a thermistor tip inside the box and might have a sensor on one side too.I will try to get some of the numbers from it by taking the picture and adding contrast. If I bypass it the compressor comes on so 2 questions.
1- Am I correct that the thermostat should be closed (passing current) under normal circumstances?
2- Can anyone suggest where to get one and how to tell what I need since the numbers are gone?


Tanish brown appearance of R1e4 in the sight glass on the manifold. Is that the compressor oil or is that scum that must be purged out?



Any answers would be appreciated. I don't want to screw it up (more) so I ask. I know I an out of my element but if I want to use it I have to fix it. No money left after getting tires!

Thanks


Your readings indicate a bad compressor. This is not an uncommon problem with the Ford fs10 compressor (you may have the fs15 same issue) When I was teaching auto we saw a lot of them. Replace compressor, accumulator, and orfice . If you suspect stop leak flush the system. Flushing will not do much for the condenser, service by replacement.
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Old 06-30-2018, 04:44 PM   #17
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Looks to me like it comes down to removing the compressor and flushing then compressed air. Hope there are no remaining blockages in condenser then replace compressor dryer and orifice. My time is free but sanity gets tested. . Getting the stuck fittings loose is going to be an adventure! I will learn things though. That is good.



I have compressor oil. Should I use the pre loaded oil in the new compressor or drain and add new?

Can I assume that I will find numbers on the old compressor that will tell me which new one to get?
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Old 07-02-2018, 07:22 AM   #18
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re: Stuck fitting, make sure you use the proper wrenches: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-4-Pi...-Set/999956368
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:55 AM   #19
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re: Stuck fitting, make sure you use the proper wrenches: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-4-Pi...-Set/999956368

Thanks. Those look very good. I will get some. My problem currently is that both ends of the low pressure hose are stuck. On the compressor end the nut moves on the threads but seems to be stuck to the tubing very tightly. Ib the other end the threaded fitting goes into a block of metal and will not budge. I need to get a flat wrench on the block and turn the threaded fitting. If this wrench goes over the tubing it might work. Don't these people know about never seize??? I'll report back. Seems like every project gets me a couple of new wrenches.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:57 AM   #20
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Update. Waiting for a new hose to be made. I had to cut it off to remove the compressor. System emptied. Removed compressor and replaced oil. When I get the hose I will be installing that. No signs of metal in the old freon. Replacing drier. I will daw a vacuum and refill with the correct amt of refrigerant and see what happens. Will go from there.
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Old 09-06-2018, 08:46 PM   #21
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Sorry I never finished the thread!

I replaced the hose, dryer and thermostat. I removed the compressor and emptied the oil. There was no grinding or excessive resistance, The clutch bearing play was not excessive. I added oil to the compressor and the system along with some dye just in case. I pulled a vacuum and it held it. I filled it with refrigerant by weight, After that it worked. Not spectacularly but it did cool. Later I found that the spade lugs on the back of the rotary fan control were overheating and the fan only spun at half speed or less.After I fixed that it blew cold air like a champ! We have been on the road for a month going through the deep south and all of the low deserts in the West. It haw worked fine. Thanks for all of the advice.
If anyone here needs AC advice in more depth you may want to try



https://forum.aircondition.com/


They specialize,
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Old 10-12-2020, 08:40 AM   #22
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Hi
Here is the problem: There is no drop in air temp at the dash vents in our 2002 Coachmen Mirada. The clutch on the compressor does not engage. One day I went to drive it and there was no cooling. It had sat for only a month or two. ........................
I Know this was posted long ago.... But, I found it with a google search, as my '99 Chieftain (Ford V10) dash A/C wasn't working, nor was the fan switch.

I actually tried a few things myself (low pressure switch as example) and noticed that I also had a bad vacuum tube to the 'ball' under the dash on the firewall. Fixed those issues or so I thought, and still "no workie".

I hired a Ford Tech who became a mobile mechanic. Took advantage of him, as he came to diagnose not only the RV... but, my work truck ('06 F350) and my '05 Excursion. All of them had some oddities when it came to the A/C working as it should.

On the RV, he found;
- two bad vacuum lines. The one at the ball on the firewall. And another down behind the gas pedal.
- a bad thermostat switch. This is the one you referred to in a post with pictures located on the firewall passenger side. Part #A46-3122-030. I have one on order from eBay.
- a Dash Blower Motor Resistor 035-00006. It's located on the interior below the passenger dash. I ordered one from https://pdxrvwholesale.com/

I wanted to thank you for the pictures, and for explaining your own troubleshooting. It helped me... so, I made sure to come on here and see if I could help the next guy/gal.

My A/C fan switch didn't work on the dash climate controls, nor would the dash vents blow (it was stuck on defrost). And, the A/C's compressor clutch wouldn't kick on. The tech, also evacuated and refilled the freon to manufacturer's spec (part of his diagnosis).

I do need to ask him if he cleaned the orifice tube filter thing... I see that it was pretty clogged on the other two vehicles. One had metal/alum all over it. So I ordered new parts to replace (compressor, condenser, accumulator) on that vehicle (which only has 37k miles!).

Have a good day!!
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