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Old 05-13-2013, 12:56 PM   #15
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Wow folks, these are all great suggestions!

Chuck- Great observation about roof thickness. I'll ask my folks to get an idea as to the thickness of their roof.

Fletch460- I know they had a repair guy check all the ducts and returns vents. I'll ask if they looked for gaps between the two shells.

Bruceisla- Dad has an IR gun and have used to to test temps however, I didn't think to use it to find hotspots; great idea. The shower skylight has had an insulated cover installed since day one. Huge source of heat for them.

YC1- I know they have a windshield curtain and of course, it's on the inside. I suggest an outside cover. Thanks

Jim- I'll ask them what kind of windows they have and offer up your suggestion.

If this turns out to be an insulation issue with the MH, I'm sure they will look into purchasing a different one. Just trying to exhaust all the obvious fixes first. They only have a few requirements and the A/C is a huge one. Followed by 330 hp or more and a short 34' MH. Thanks so much for all the reply's. You folks are a big help!
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:28 PM   #16
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383,

The efficiency test for the AC units has little to do with the outside temperature but is tested by measuring the air temperature going into one end of the unit and the temperature coming out of the other end. The cooled air comes from inside the coach not from outside.

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Old 05-13-2013, 02:37 PM   #17
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Another issue is the crappy duct systems they use. They restrict the air terribly. I modified my intake/output vent that covers the inside. I can divert much more air using it versus the ducts. I will get a picture on here to show. It makes a huge difference in how well they work. The restriction in the ducting can be the registers sticking in to far. I pulled my round registers out and cut the part that sticks up in the raceway a bit shorter. Helped quite a bit. The other thing that really helps is a small 12 volt fan above my favorite seating area.

You need to go to the roof, remove the covers, and wash the fins a couple of times a year. That helps a lot too.
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:12 PM   #18
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ID:	38803I found this register at a local Osh store. Cutting the old one out was easy and their is a huge improvement in air flow versus using the roof ducts.
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:12 PM   #19
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Also make sure that the ac fans are set to HIGH - if they are at AUTO then most of the time they are either on low or med - it's based on the difference in temperature.

Mine is struggling now in 104F - the no slide bedroom is cold but the 1 slide living room is 88F with 104F outside.

Tomorrow I am installing a dual duct portable air conditioner. I removed the couch and replaced it with an easy chair and ottoman for DW and in doing so, made a space available in the slide where I can put a portable ac - it HAS to be a dual duct version - inlet and outlet - otherwise it's won't work in an RV. It will add an extra 10,000 btu of cooling. I'll make it a semi-permanent install by cutting duct holes in the side of the RV with some nice covers.
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:49 PM   #20
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If the coach's AC's are operating properly and all windows/vents are sealed/calked to prevent warm air from entering, then another cooling source should be considered.
A RV Swamp Cooler is good where humidity is not high.

RV Swamp Cooler - RV Evaporative Air Cooler

Check Out these TurboKOOL Benefits and Features:

Operates with a solar panel and/or on a standard 12-volt system
Amp draw: High: 4.6 amps Med: 3.2 amps Low: 2.2 amps
Economical operation
Maintenance FREE (only one moving part)
Dry air used to cool motor for LONGER MOTOR LIFE
Spraying water over entire surface of filter ensures peak COOLING and FILTERING
Efficiency. Much more efficient than dripping water over a filter
Non-organic industrial foam filter element - no bacterial growth or foul odors
Temperature reduction is usually between 20 - 30 degrees
Easy installation with simple hand tools
TurboKOOL can be adapted to nearly any remote, stand-alone cooling requirement
SPIN-SPRAY action literally washes dust, pollen and impurities from the air & filter
Converts hot, stuffy and dirty air to COOL, CLEAN AIR
NO generator or 110v power needed to run TurboKOOL
Fits all standard 14" x 14" roof vent openings
Recommended for areas where the average relative humidity does not exceed 75%
Weighs just 16 lbs. and measures a compact 35" x 22" x 11.5"
Quiet and efficient operation
Individually adjustable louvres for air distribution the way you direct it
Unit can also be used as an exhaust fan
Body and hood are UV protected to prevent cracking, discoloration and fading
Pump cant be damaged if run without water
Dry-camping is finally a real pleasure
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:01 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
Attachment 38800

Attachment 38801

Attachment 38802

Attachment 38803I found this register at a local Osh store. Cutting the old one out was easy and their is a huge improvement in air flow versus using the roof ducts.
Hi, was this a ducted system (long runs in ceiling with multiple round outlets) before you made the modifications? If so, is the existing ductwork still utilized along with the direct register?
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:44 PM   #22
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Bruceisla, yes long runs with round registers. They are still in use. In fact they actually connect to the rear bedroom. This is handy in hot weather because I can force more air from the rear AC towards the front now due to decreased pressure up front with the modification.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:00 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Gearhead383 View Post
My parents have a 34' Harney Riata diesel pusher with 2 Dometic 13.5 roof top A/C units. Their complaint is the MH won't cool when the outside temps are mid 90's. The A/C units have been checked by two different RV service shops and both have stated the units are working perfectly.
When comparing my MH to theirs, mine has no problem staying cool, even when the outside temps are over 100 degrees. Not sure if this makes a difference, but mine have heat pumps and theirs are just plain A/C units.
Another thought could be the contruction of the MH itself. If the unit has poor insulation properties, then the A/C units don't stand a chance. Are there certain brands of motor homes that handle the heat better then others? Thanks.
Gearhead I found the following modification that might help you problem, I am sure going to do it this summer while parked under my roof.

"Air Conditioner Modification by Gordie Kaltz

The largest heat gain is from the front windshield, if you install the foil bubble insulation on the windshield while parked it will drop the temp by some 10 degrees, also remove the filters and look straight up and look at the cooling fins, if they are black or brown they need to be cleaned. I did make some mods to the roof a/c's that have improved the performance, anyone can e-mail me off line for the info. I currently can hold 77 degrees inside at 115 outside with direct sun, that is with the windshield blocked off. If you’re looking for maximum a/c performance you’re going to have to do your homework, the fix is not to install a larger unit(s).


Here are the modifications that I have been e-mailing off line. Let me start by saying that after I did the mods I have been happy with the 2-13.5K Duo-Therm's (low profile).

Start by taking of the fiberglass covers, you will see a foam seal between the cover and the condenser coils; replace it with a closed-cell foam seal available at Lowe's. While the covers are off clean the condenser coils with coil cleaner foam available at Lowe's.


Now, next up front of each unit you will see a galvanized steel "dog house". Remove all the screws and remove the covers - this is the evaporator dog house. It is where the unit sucks in the air from the coach and passes it across the evaporator coils to cool it. Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and get that foil coated bubble insulation, and a can of 3m "77" spray adhesive. What I did was cover the entire evaporator "dog house" both inside and outside with the foil bubble insulation. I even covered the sides, you have to remember that all that is between the outside cover (fiberglass) and the evaporator coil was the dog house. The heat load on the cover is tremendous, and even the foil bubble insulation may not look like much, but it works! While you have everything apart, make sure you have a good seal between the discharge of the A/C and the roof duct-work entrance. I had large holes in mine - fixed that with foil tape at Lowe’s for hot water tank flue's. Cut and piece together a good solid seal between the roof opening (you may have to remove the metal control box to make sure you get a good seal to the roof ducts). Also check every roof discharge opening so that it has a good seal to the duct work that runs the length of the roof on each side.

Use the 3M “77” spray adhesive this way: cut your insulation pieces to fit each part that you want to insulate, then spray the 3M stuff on the galvanized metal and let dry. Then spray on your foil insulation; let dry, then press into place.

You may think these are small items, but they add up! I had considered replacing both units with the 15k units, but after I made the modifications, there is no need to replace them.


We live in the desert southwest and routinely camp in Vegas or Lake Havasu. Here's another item....Currently in South Texas and if I run the A/C's on low or med the roof discharge registers sweat because they get so cold, so I know the insulation on the evaporator dog house has done the trick. Also, I forgot to add to clean out the squirrel cage blower for the condenser.

Gordie Kaltz"
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:57 PM   #24
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are the AC covers white or a dark color?
Dark attracts heat and will hamper AC performance

Are the AC units spotlessly clean outside? The hotter it is outside...the more perfect the AC unit needs to be for cleanliness

Outside air temp DOES effect an AC units ability to cool...the units use outside air to expel heat from the condensers...the hotter it is outside, the less efficient the condenser will be

Park in shade if at all possible
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:50 AM   #25
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I have several great suggestions for my folks to follow up with. Many have already been done.

YC1- Never thought of the registers sticking too far into the duct work. The covers have been removed and everything cleaned and all the seal are in good shape.

Steveclv- The fans are always on high. In fact, they purchased a portable A/C unit to help with their problem. Not sure as to the specifics of this unit.

Dog Daddy- They use a swamp cooler for the house. They live in the Pacific North West so there is very little humidity. I didn't realize they made a unit for RV's.

Beejay25- Great little wright up. I'll be sure to forward this to them.

Sc3283- All the A/C covers are white and the coils and fins have been cleaned and blown out. Parking in the shade is not an option. Not too many shady spot and a dragstrip!

If all the ideas here don't work, I'm guessing this could be more of a construction issue with the MH. The insulating properties may not be up to par and the only real solution would be to get another MH. This is something they are looking into. I just wanted to exhaust all other possibilities before they pull the trigger on another coach.
I know on a hot and cloudy day the A/C's do a better job making the inside tolerable. Seems to be worse in direct sun light and as stated before, they don't always have the option of parking in shade. I appreciate everyone's advice and suggestions. I believe I have enough information/ideas for them to try before giving up. Thanks a bunch!
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:38 PM   #26
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I don't know how my 78 Class B will hold out the heat but it's entire roof is covered in fiberglass with a fiberglass ceiling inside as well. There is a thin layer of rigid foam (kind of like the foam used by florists) in the ceiling as well. I know this due to the new roof vent that was installed, they used the new too short plastic piece instead of the better old metal one it had. I guesss I should have asked for it back but I didn't really notice they left a gap.

The tail end is also fiberglass but the walls around most of the van are steel. But at least it's all painted white, save for a couple of dark green stripes that run around it. I don't know how well insulated it is, but i do know it has some regular fiberglass insulation in the walls as the edges of it can be seen under the cabinet at the galley sink.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:38 PM   #27
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Gear, mine gets parked at the dragstrip often too!
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:48 PM   #28
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Our DSDP will hold a reasonable temperature in Yuma in 95 weather with only one 13.5 heat pump going.
BUT we have dual pane windows, optional, extra roof insulation (think it's standard on new DSDP's and Newmars have exceptional wall insulation to begin with. The shades are day/night with light blocking fabric (also an option in 2002) although we didn't pull them down.
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