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Old 05-16-2013, 06:33 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beejay25 View Post
Gearhead I found the following modification that might help you problem, I am sure going to do it this summer while parked under my roof.

"Air Conditioner Modification by Gordie Kaltz


Gordie Kaltz"
I thought Gordie's info was rather interesting. So, while I was at the RV today, I pulled the cover off the the older A/C unit. Then I pulled the cover off the 6 month old Dometic front unit. There are some differences .... most noticeably, the old unit has no insulation on the forward air plenum. The new unit has styrofoam insulation. Also, the old unit has deteriorating foam around the cover seal (rear condenser). So .... tomorrow I'll insulate the plenum and replace the cover seals. Basically, I'll try to make the 2 units functionally the same.

Although the older unit is "ok" I had noted the output temps where slightly different (newer is lower/better). I had attributed the difference to age but now I'm not so sure. Hoping to improve the efficiency with some new seals and insulation.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:35 PM   #30
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Gordie, I went to the roof as you suggested with the silver bubble wrap insulation and a can of contact spray. When I removed the tops the foam you mention did look a bit compressed. My housings are all plastic but I covered them anyway. They were even double walled so the design is excellent. I sealed a hole where some wires enter the heat exchanger area and a small gap. Instead of replacing the foam that is between the cover and the heat exchanger area I applied glue to the under side of the lid and then the insulation. Reinstalling it took a bit of downward pressure so I know I have good contact.

My wife complained of it being cold last night. Seems to have improved the performance quite a bit. I did both of my AC's. Keeping the fan on High makes sense now in really hot weather.
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:01 AM   #31
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BTW, yesterday I completed installation of Reflectix in all the windows. Cutting each piece and then foil taping the edges was time consuming and tedious but worth the effort. Please keep in mind the RV is in storage so the practicality of keeping ALL the windows covered is questionable. After installation the window frame temps (as measured with an infrared gun thermometer) dropped from 89 to 84 and temp of walls near windows dropped 2 degrees (no A/C or fans running .... entrance door open ...outside temp was 85 in shady area).
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:07 PM   #32
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97 Endeavor A/C Repair

Unit #2 (bedroom) was short cycling ... pulled the lower cover, pulled the control unit down, and found the foil tape was all loose (adhesive failed). So, pulled the baffle assembly to see the ductwork ... surprise! ... all the foil tape was loose and the ducts had collapsed. Short version is I cut pieces of PVC pipe to make a small "column" inside each duct, rebuild the baffle with new seals, reinstalled and retaped everything and the A/C works correctly. No more short cycles. And ... while I had the control box down I found the remote sensor all taped up and jammed into the upper plenum. Looks like original install ... never installed correctly. Cut it loose, pulled the sensor out about 5 feet and tucked the wire between the ceiling and wall, ran it over toward the corner and let it dangle ... I'll pretty it up in a few days. At least it's now sensing actual room temp.

So, now that the rear A/C is working I compared front (a 6 month old unit) to the back ... back (old unit) is now colder than front by 4 degrees ... Damn !! Pulled everything down in front and found same collapsed ductwork ... the installer never pulled the baffle when he installed the new unit! Well, that's fixed and the 2 units are now within a degree or 2 and today I could bring the coach down below 67 degrees in an outside temp of 85.

If you have the inclination, you might want to check your ductwork. It's a design problem ... there is no support for the ends where they come into the airbox. Shape of the duct relies totally on the foil tape connection and the tape is gripping styrofoam .... no way the adhesive can hold for 15 years.

Here's the before and the after ... most of the pics are self explanatory but feel free to ask questions. Ductwork output temps are below 50 degrees.

Improved performance is amazing !!

Air Conditioner Repair Photos by bdkolber | Photobucket
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:23 PM   #33
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Rehab of upper unit

Here's the rehab of the #2 upper unit ... new seals and Reflectix insulation ... extra vent holes in shroud .... mounting holes on shroud are now fiberglass reinforced.

Upper Unit Rehab Photos by bdkolber | Photobucket
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:23 PM   #34
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My suggestions on this issue - and we had it in a HR in temps over 100 degrees:
1) Upgraded to a 15k unit. This is a marginal improvement and will be more marginalized if your existing units are in good shape and/or if they are flow limited by ducts.
2) Insulated the engine compartment with reflective material (for under hoods) - the Class-A took in a lot of heat from the engine right at the driver's feet.
3) Removed the covers to the AC units and cleaned the condenser and evaporator with coil cleaner. They get dirty over the years.
4) Tested - made sure they were not short cycling and that we saw a 20 degree drop.
5) Resealed the the ducts.
6) Added closeable vents so we could turn off the vents in the rear of the coach and divert the air to the front.

Next step - and I'd probably recommend this first... In the AC unit in front of the coach, consider going ductless. The ductless units are a lot less restricted and generally they can be changed (Dometic) by simply changing the assembly in the RV side. You could either block the existing ducts or leave them.
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Old 05-25-2013, 03:24 PM   #35
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May be a silly question, but does anybody actually provide a shade structure over each A/C unit when parked for a while in the heat? I have seen little PVC pipe structures used to protect plastic vent lids from falling pine cones. Wouldn't something similar, albeit larger, work over the A/C unit? You could even use refletix on the top of the shade structure. Pull it down and disassemble it for travel and future use. Just a thought!

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Old 05-26-2013, 10:21 AM   #36
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May be a silly question, but does anybody actually provide a shade structure over each A/C unit when parked for a while in the heat? I have seen little PVC pipe structures used to protect plastic vent lids from falling pine cones. Wouldn't something similar, albeit larger, work over the A/C unit? You could even use refletix on the top of the shade structure. Pull it down and disassemble it for travel and future use. Just a thought!

Roy
I lined the inside of my covers with reflectix. This made a tighter seal with the foam and is giving me some protection from heat, especially since mine are black. I believe the reflectix has made a big improvement in mine if not just making a better seal and forcing the air to pass through the heat exchangers. The AC's now actually cycle on and off because the rv is cooling much better.

Keeping the fans on High as suggested makes a big difference too.
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Old 09-15-2014, 03:24 PM   #37
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insulation

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My favorite motorhome was my 345 Airstream. It was also the hottest. It had a aluminum outer skin and a aluminum inner skin with aluminum braces connecting them. This conducted the heat right into the interior. I have had five motorhomes. The Pace and the Open Road were the coolest. The Argosy and the Airstream were by far the hottest. The answer to your question is yes, Some motorhomes are cooler than others. When I was service manager we checked the motorhomes at about six o'clock. They all were out in direct sunlight. Some were noticeably cooler than others.
Hey Ga Traveler, maybe you could share with us the list of better insulated RVs you noticed were better brands. I know I would appreciate it, and others would too
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Old 09-15-2014, 04:01 PM   #38
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Can't tell you a cost as the original owner of our RV had them made, but we have solar sun shades made by SunPRo for the front windows - including the driver and passenger side windows. They block 90% of the uv and I can tell a big difference when I don't put them on - like a one day stay. They also allow you see out the windows, but you cannot see in from the outside. May be an inexpensive alternative to bigger AC units.

The PO had them made for the tires too and are so easy to use that I put them on anytime we're parked for more than a day. Mount to side of RV with system with 4 or 5 old style Tonneau cover rotating keepers.
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:05 AM   #39
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Hey Ga Traveler, maybe you could share with us the list of better insulated RVs you noticed were better brands. I know I would appreciate it, and others would too
I would love too. The trouble is, I am 74 years old and don't remember the names. Sounds like a poor excuse, but I just remember champion and Airstream were the worst. There was one maker that was noticeably cooler, It was not a top maker, but I can't think of the name. They advertised a four inch roof and it was much cooler.
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:42 AM   #40
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Very informative thread! We're having trouble keeping cool when the temps are near 100 degrees. I'll be trying some of these fixes! Thanks!
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