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Old 09-23-2014, 10:21 AM   #1
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Advice needed

Hello All,

I am new to owning this '08 HRambler Vacationer XL 34' diesel. The facts are as follows:
It wouldn't crank. I have had trouble with the batteries dying in the past so I thought they might be bad. Not sure how old they were. Before running to the auto parts store I went ahead and changed the oil and fuel filter/separator. I filled the filter with fuel.

I went to the store, had the batteries checked and both had bad cells. I brought new batteries back and installed them. I was pretty sure I knew which wires went where. The entry step works fine (and runs off the chassis). When I entered the coach, before inserting the key, the Alt Fail light was on and the regen temperature warning. The Alt Light hadn't come on while operating the RV previously.

When I put the key in and turn to on position the battery isn't showing any power. I tried to start it initially, for a few minutes. It cranks but doesn't start. I realize it might have air in the lines and then turn the key on (and wait) and off several times. I 'bumped' the ignition and then wait. I cannot hear the fuel pump work.

I haven't tried anything further as I wanted to throw this out to the group. Yes, I should have taken a picture of the battery compartment but didn't as it seemed straigtforward how it was wired, I also wrapped some of the wires together with electrical tape so as not to confuse anything, etc. I think the wiring is okay but I have attached pictures so

1. please let me know if anything looks wrong in the wiring?
WIRING PICS HERE
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128054324@N06/

2. Why isn't the battery showing a charge on the instrument panel?
3. Is there air in the lines and any tip on how to get this thing started?

Thank you,
Steve
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:33 AM   #2
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If you can take 1 picture with all the battery's in the 1 shot that would help. It looks to me that you have a Pos and a Neg hooked to the same post. I think 1 picture with all the batterys in that 1 shot would be more helpful. JMO, Tim
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:02 AM   #3
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Which pair of batteries are for the chassis? Kind of looks like the gray, left side pair, but most of the photos show details of right side pair. Agree that one over head shot of all would be helpful - I'm having a hard time figuring what goes where in all those shots.
Since it cranks, it seems you must have at least the basics right. Fuel lift pump should run for about 20-30 seconds each time you cycle the key on. Repeat that several times. Did you change just one fuel filter, or both? If just the primary (with water separator), cycling the key should be enough. If at first you don't succeed, do the key cycle procedure again.
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:10 AM   #4
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I seem to have lost my other post, It appears that you have 2-6 volts and 2 12 volt batteries. I also see reds & Blks going to the same post. I am not sure if you can do that. I will let someone with more knowledge step in. Good luck and I will follow this to find out the answer also.
Tim
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:02 PM   #5
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Hey Swoodall,
Or, make a drawing of how you have the batteries wired with labels on each post, pos and neg (ground).


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Old 09-23-2014, 12:21 PM   #6
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The reason that you see red and black cables going to the same post is that there are two short jumper cables that were used in the wrong place. They are the 12 VDC batteries wired in parallel which those jumpers would not cause any problems.

If he wants to correct those two cables just remove the short jumpers from each side and reverse them. Red to Red and Black to Black.

You can't see enough of the house batteries to see what's going on but his concern is with the chassis side and engine cracking.

I don't see anything that is glaringly wrong at least with the larger battery cables. Not sure about the smaller gauge wires.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
Which pair of batteries are for the chassis? Kind of looks like the gray, left side pair, but most of the photos show details of right side pair. Agree that one over head shot of all would be helpful - I'm having a hard time figuring what goes where in all those shots.
Since it cranks, it seems you must have at least the basics right. Fuel lift pump should run for about 20-30 seconds each time you cycle the key on. Repeat that several times. Did you change just one fuel filter, or both? If just the primary (with water separator), cycling the key should be enough. If at first you don't succeed, do the key cycle procedure again.
Thanks Gary. The chassis batteries are on the right side. I just changed the fuel separator.
Steve
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
The reason that you see red and black cables going to the same post is that there are two short jumper cables that were used in the wrong place. They are the 12 VDC batteries wired in parallel which those jumpers would not cause any problems.

If he wants to correct those two cables just remove the short jumpers from each side and reverse them. Red to Red and Black to Black.

You can't see enough of the house batteries to see what's going on but his concern is with the chassis side and engine cracking.

I don't see anything that is glaringly wrong at least with the larger battery cables. Not sure about the smaller gauge wires.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Thank you Richard! The smaller gauge wires....it wouldn't make a difference which battery's positive they are connected to, would it? Do you have any smaller gauge wires on your negative posts?

Steve
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:37 PM   #9
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Looks like it's hooked up right. You could switch the jumpers around like previously posted just so it looks better. Red on positive...Black on negative.

Have you checked the fuses? Maybe fuel pump overheated and blew if you cranked too long. It also seems like you should see voltage indication at the dash.
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