Air Spring leveling valve adjustment repair
For those who have the Gillig Chassis this applies, to others it may also, sorry but I did not take photos and forgot to copy the manufacturer of the valve, for anyone who has attempted to work in the rear suspension of the Gillig coach you would understand...
Ours is a 1989 Country Coach with the right side sitting lower than the left, using the levelers instead of jackstands we adjust as the manual states and all is well.
Go for a drive, return and notice the side is low again...&^%&^!
So a closer look and I notice too much play in the valve, the valve can move aboult 5 minutes on a clock dial before air is fed to the bag.
So removal was required...(so I thought).
After aboult an hour of twisting my arms into positions that they were not designed to be I got the valve out and examined it.
It is a simple system, a rocker arm that pushes on valves like in your tires, schreader type.
Problem is that there was a gap between te pin and the rocker, and the rocker is hard steel, it does not bend.
A closer look and one discovers that if they remove the top and bottom air fittings there is a screw slot on the back side of the valves.
It seems the valves are installed into adjustable cores that can e turned with a screwdriver to make the valve work correctly.
So in the future the valve DOES NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED!!!
Here is the instructions for the adjustment of the valve, safety first.
Using jacks or other means get the chassis high enough to work under.
Now remove the 3 hoses from the valve along with the top and bottom adaptor fittings.
Next attach a source of compressed air to the center fitting, about 50 to 90 PSI is fine.
Disconnect the control rod from the axle, if it has not been fooled with you may not need much adjustment later.
Now rock the control arm, you will hear the air when it pushes the pin.
If it moves at all and no air, then inser the screwdriver into the hole where the fittings were removed and tighten the core a little bit and retest.
Repeat until the slop is gone, be very careful when almost done, you want to use your fingers to cover the fittings and feel for air flow, you want to be sure that center is OFF, if you cannot turn the air off on both fittings at the same time one is too tight, loosen one, you can adjust the center point of travel for the control arm this way.
Once finished restore all connections and get clear of your coach, remove the jacks and start up the engine.
It should come up to ride height, if not then continue to adjustment.
These can be adjusted while engine is running, for safety drop your jacks and extend them to a little lower than ride height.
You can test the valve by moving the control rod slightly above and below the mounting pin to simulate incorrect position and after the axle is in the wrong place you put it back on the pin to insure it goes to correct spot.
Test from both too high and too low, this will insure valve is working correctly in both instances.
To make the adjustment easier, make a measure stick out of a 1/4 inch wood dowell, our coach wants 32.9 from top of rail to ground, I subtracted the frams and bracket thickness from this and made a dowel this length, not simple height guage, hold under frams and make it "just touch".