|
|
07-07-2016, 05:15 PM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 112
|
Atwood hot water drain plug leaking
I have been having a constant drip from this plug. I took the plug out and replaced with a new one. Well my drip is slower but still there. Any ideas? Threads are clean.
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
07-07-2016, 05:17 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Florida Cooters Club
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Venice, Fla.
Posts: 507
|
Wrap the threads in a few wraps of Teflon tape and the tighten until it stops leaking. I hope this helps.
Sent from my iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum
__________________
--Chuck
95 Newmar Kountry Star, Spartan Chassis, Venice, Fla
|
|
|
07-07-2016, 05:49 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,818
|
Buy a brass nipple..........1/2" NPT threads
Run it in/out drain hole to chase/clean/straighten threads
Install new Atwood nylon drain plug finger tight then snug up (warp with tape OK)
If drips....slightly tighten
Plug and drain threads are 'tapered' (NPT) so they get tighter and tighter the farther plug is inserted
|
|
|
07-07-2016, 11:08 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,450
|
I too became frustrated with the nylon plugs leaking and cracking. I now use a metal plug with a light application of anti seize compound, on threads only, to prevent disimilar metals from gaulding together. Remove it once or twice a year to flush tank.
__________________
George R. - Fulltiming since January '03
2007 Newmar Mountain Aire 3991
2012 Chevy Malibu LT1
|
|
|
07-08-2016, 01:17 PM
|
#5
|
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,676
|
If it's the standard Atwood nylon plug and isn't sealing to the threads fully, my guess is that there is damage to the female threads on the tank. Or that you are over-tightening it, causing the metal to cut a gash in the nylon. It does not need to be real tight.
If nice soft nylon won't seal, I doubt if brass will do any better, with or without tape. However, if the internal threads are already damaged, a paste type pipe dope may fill the gaps adequately. It works better than tape for problem areas. Here is one such:
PIPE JOINT PASTE PFTE 1OZ - Walmart.com
As you have probably guessed, I do not share the opinion that the nylon plugs are no good. I'll grant that sloppy wrenching can turn the corners off, though. Use a correct size socket, not pliers or an adjustable wrench.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
|
|
|
07-08-2016, 01:36 PM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Port Charlotte Florida
Posts: 2,721
|
The plugs are Nylon because the tank is aluminum. That idea is so you can't strip the tank threads, if you do, you likely will scrap the tank.
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]2008 Bounder 38P F53 24/30K V10, 2013 Kia Soul Basic 6 speed manual, Ready Brake Elite tow system (previous equipment 1996 Pace Arrow Vision w/Acme Dolly)
|
|
|
07-08-2016, 03:08 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 112
|
Thanks to everyone for the great ideas. I have on order new Atwood plugs. I will chase the threads with a brass plug. I am able to hand tighten the plugs using a socket with extention. I don't think the aluminum threads are damaged. New plugs should arrive tomorrow and will do this exercise again.
|
|
|
07-08-2016, 09:41 PM
|
#8
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 47
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockx
The plugs are Nylon because the tank is aluminum. That idea is so you can't strip the tank threads, if you do, you likely will scrap the tank.
|
Yes, much better to replace a nylon plug you cross-threaded than to replace the aluminum tank that would be ruined by cross-threading any metal plug into the soft aluminum.
That, plus galvanic action caused by dissimilar metals can eat up the aluminum the tank itself is made from.
Wayne
__________________
Wayne & Michelle
Hillsboro, WV
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
|
|
|
07-09-2016, 09:42 AM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 236
|
I use a brass plug but only when the coach is in use. When not in use (most of the time) the tank is drained and left open without a plug. I always use a little grease on the threads just cause it seems like a good idea. No problems for many years running.
|
|
|
07-09-2016, 10:15 AM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: TEJAS
Posts: 813
|
Mine is a 6 gallon tank and a 1/2 npt would not fit into the threads. 1/2 was too big. I was trying to mount a Hott Rod heater using an adapter but ended up braising two different adapters together than rewiring the two thermostats so they can operate either or both propane and electric.
|
|
|
07-09-2016, 12:37 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 336
|
I will second what Gary said about pipe joint compound versus teflon tape. For me the pipe joint compound works when the tape doesn't. I have seen one of those TV plumbers use both.
I always try to use a new nylon plug.
I also limit the size of the wrench handle the jerk uses to tighten the plug. My go to wrench is the correct 1/2" socket with a universal extension turned at 90 degrees for a handle. This is a pretty short handle and makes it hard to over tighten the plug.
|
|
|
07-09-2016, 12:47 PM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 336
|
One more thing on using teflon tape. When you wrap the threads wrap it so the action of screwing the plug into the tank tightens the tape onto to the plug.
Or to say it another way... hold the plug in your left hand with the threads pointing to the right. Now start wrapping the tape away from your body.
This is probably one of those "duh" moments for every wanna be plumber, but I managed to do that backwards once or twice.
|
|
|
07-18-2016, 08:05 PM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Athol, Id
Posts: 126
|
If you need to clean the threads do it with a pipe tap not a pipe nipple be it brass or steel it won't clean the threads.
As far as the actual plug brass or any other metallic material with the exception of Stainless Steel (316 is the best) is not compatible with Aluminum.
__________________
2008 Dutch Star 4035
Retired IBEW Local 595
|
|
|
07-22-2016, 01:57 PM
|
#14
|
Junior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 6
|
I believe. At Wood plugs. Also Help. To protect The tank. From overpressure. In addition. To the pressure relief valve. Recommend using only at Wood plugs
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|