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Old 07-01-2012, 05:48 AM   #29
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Have you tried to remove the weel simulator (essentially a fancy hubcap)? The holes in the wheels are much larger than the holes in the simulators. To remove the simulator you need to unscrew 2 of the chrome lug nuts. The ones that need to be removed should have an indentation or dimple about 1/2" long going across the flats on the nut in about the center from the wheel to the tip of the nut.

The motorhome came equiped with a T handle wrench for this purpose. It's a pretty flimsy wrench so I use a 1 1/8" deep socket. Once you have the simulator off you may be able to reach the joint of the extender/valve stem with your hand or a pair of pliers. My hands are small enough I can reach through and remove or install the extenders. Most have a hex head where they meet the valve stem and are tight enough they need to be loosened with a pliers or wrench
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:47 PM   #30
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Hikerdogs, I noticed the wheel simulator limited my access but assumed it came off with the wheel. I had no idea I could get it off with only 2 lugs!
I assume the other lugs are merely being covered. I will jump on this when I return to campsite in the next day or two...Thanks!
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:26 AM   #31
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RKH-

I have had several braided valve extenders that failed on my rig. I can send you two I still have in my parts kit that don't work properly-. They worked okay- until they didn't work okay- .

I have the TST system- It drove me nuts for awhile.

Go buy a (or some) new one('s). Here's the one's I bought that fixed the problem.

Good luck,
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Old 07-02-2012, 05:49 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rkh View Post
Hikerdogs, I noticed the wheel simulator limited my access but assumed it came off with the wheel. I had no idea I could get it off with only 2 lugs!
I assume the other lugs are merely being covered. I will jump on this when I return to campsite in the next day or two...Thanks!
Make sure you identify the real lug nuts correctly. 6 of the 8 are part of the wheel simulator and you'll twist them off if you try to turn them. The 2 with the detents are directly across from one another.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:00 AM   #33
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OK, thanks to all of you for helping me think this problem through. You taught me all about these extenders and wheel covers. The problem turned out to be a lousy tire gauge! Why I thought I had a quality gauge is beyond me. It was given to me but turned out to be a cheap brand called "slime"? The air release pin in the extender is slightly more recessed than the other base valve stems and I could not get a good reading with the slime. I spent $25 bucks for another gauge at NAPA which seemed to have a deeper head and longer plunger. Popped it on and whoa! 92lbs PSI. Geeesh...Now I can get to the scales and make sure I have the pressure I need.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:25 AM   #34
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Is/was that a digital gauge? If it was, I bought one exactly like it at WM for $2.50 several years ago. Same exact gauge, different package. If it was analog, same thing you could get for half the price at WM or Autozone in a generic package.



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Old 07-08-2012, 05:40 AM   #35
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Dunner, this is the gauge I had....
http://www.slime.com/shop/10-120-psi...enders-2016-a/
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:43 AM   #36
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Glad things worked out with no major problems. As for air pressure gauges we still use the Milton S-976 mechanical gauge.

Milton Deluxe Service Dual-Head Tire Gauge — 10–160 PSI, Model# S-976 | Air Chucks Gauges| Northern Tool + Equipment

Motorhome magazine did a review on tire pressure gauges a year or so back and picked it as the most accurate, most dependable of all the mechanical and digital gauges. They're relatively cheap at around $20.00. We picked ours up at a local farm store.
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:02 AM   #37
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Not at all what I was thinking about. Glad you got it working right.



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Old 07-08-2012, 06:28 AM   #38
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For next time...

Those braided extenders are usually adjustable. (the adjustable ones have a locknut, right before the braid starts)
Loosen it from the bracket, loosen the locknut, and turn the barrel until it works, then tighten the locknut, make sure it still works, and secure it.

I hate those things too. When I got new tires, it used solid valve stems that stick straight out, and a 4" straight solid extender on the inner duals long enough to get the TST sensor screwed on. No more worries.
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