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Old 03-29-2005, 06:56 PM   #15
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I agree with bankerdrysdale that there is more noise in the bedroom, but I spend most of my time in the living room area and the noise level is much less. We don't sleep with either the heat or air "ON". The heat pump air distribution are much better than the LP furnaces, while the limited air use so far is just fine.


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Old 04-07-2005, 02:45 PM   #16
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We stay in AZ, sometimes when it is over 110 (I know, that's when we should be up north), don't know anything about basement heat pump operation. The basement units are almost all under the bedroom, so you get more night noise there. W/two roof units we can run the living room unit at night & a small fan in hallway for minimal noise.
The basement units are still nicer during the day, however, for use of the forward areas.

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Old 04-07-2005, 03:37 PM   #17
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For those of you in the 100+ heat, how does the basement unit do temp. wise. Can you keep it at 73 deg. or so?? Are these 27,000 BTU units???. In my 28' 5th wheel w/ 13,500 BTU A/C I can only cool to 80 or so when it is 106 outside which I am being told is on par for that unit.
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Old 04-08-2005, 03:26 AM   #18
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From my experience with the basement air I think a 20 degree drop in temperature is pretty good performance...

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Old 04-09-2005, 07:24 PM   #19
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....should be 40 degrees between the inlet and outlet temps....get a thermometer and try it out!....Most of your problem is insulation and lack of reflection from the roof......geofkaye
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Old 04-09-2005, 09:42 PM   #20
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How does the basement air affect storage space? Seems to me it would use up a lot.
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Old 04-10-2005, 06:16 AM   #21
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Kayerivercity, you need to check you 40 degree number. If you are able to cool the room air by 20 degrees you are doing good...that is read the return air temperature and then the air temperature cooming out of the duct should be 20 degrees colder.

If you are running 40 degrees colder you will freeze the coil when you have a comfortable 75degree coach.

I've been working in the refrigeration industry and air conditioning industry for over 35 years now and that has always been the general rule of thumb.
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Old 04-10-2005, 06:52 PM   #22
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.....I'm OLD and I forget now and then....60 hit me harder than I t hough....DUH....geofkaye
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Old 04-11-2005, 07:36 AM   #23
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Our basement air works great in 100+ temps. The trick is to get it as cool as possible in the early a.m.... before it gets really hot. If you let it get hot in the MH, it takes a couple of hours to cool it down.
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Old 04-11-2005, 09:14 AM   #24
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That's the ticket is to keep ahead of the day's temperature rise, and the AC will keep the coach comforatable...

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Old 05-31-2005, 02:37 PM   #25
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I paid to have my 02 winnie checked,$175 later they said it all checked out, the pressure, the draw on both comp. all good!For ever advantage, such as low center of gravity, no water running off of MH, there are 2or3 disatvanges, noise while sitting out,takes up storage space, hot air is exhausted under the MH, hot air rises and what is not pulled across the coils is used to make me hotter. Dont think about using the gen. as it supplies more hot air to the A/C coils. Now that you have some cold air, you have to push it UP to the HOT ROOF DUCTS.
Hot air rises, cold air--- two speed fan to HI,

Now let me say that I did change my cheap, blue fiberglass filters, for the better quality paper.That may have slow down the AIR across the coils. I have gone back to a lower restricted filter. I will check it out this Aug.at the Bristol race. coopcolt

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