Battery boost not working on a 96 Mountain Aire

[rockinron]

My battery boost is not working on my 1996 Mountain Aire I can here and feel the solenoid click but no battery boost. Any suggestions?
Thanks

[Wanabee FTer]

Have you checked the chassis and coach batteries with a DVOM yet?
if all batteries are low the boost will not give enough power to start.

[Monacoach]

I am in the same boat and suspect that my battery isolator solenoid is toast or connections need cleaning. If your solenoid is stuck in the open position such as I suspect mine is, then your house batteries will also not be getting a charge from the alternator. The boost switch and alternator both activate that solenoid to join the batteries together.

[RV Wizard]

Check for voltage across the solenoid when it is in a closed position. IF you have a voltage greater than .01 you have a bad solenoid.

[rockinron]

Thanks for thr reply Mike: By mistake I left a reply for you in the"Class A motorhome dissusion" forum. Rather than do the whole thing over would you look the under" how to trouble shoot a battery boost" there. It looks like everything is working, but I wont know untill my chassis batteries go down if they ever do. see what you think.
Thanks again
Ron

[Monacoach]

I had to replace the solenoid and the isolator delay circuit.

[WejaZ28]

Replace the solonoid. Mine was doing the same thing. Took it apart and saw that the 2 points were bent down. Repeated activation bent the arms away from the point of contact.

No problems since, Kevin

[GaryKD]

Hi rockinron,
Gut feel says one of your coach or chassis batteries is in poor shape. Please let us know when you determine the root cause of the problem.

I say this because if one of your chassis batteries is bad and you use the Battery Boost switch, all the coach battery energy will immediately go toward charging the bad chassis battery.

[pkmesser]

On my 2005 Newmar KSCA the system is an intelitec isolator delay relay activating a White Rogers 100 amp normally open relay. It appears the contacts in the White Rogers are bad. (solinoid clicks, but both posts read different voltage by over 1 volt when the convertor charger is at 13.6 volts.) So I have ordered a new White Rogers solinoid. But something that I ran across while looking online for a replacement that may apply to some of you with with simular problems. One distributer of the relays, strongly reccommmend that for battery chargeing applications, where the voltage will be 13+ volts, to use a solinoid with a 14 volt coil, rather than 12. The logic is that that at higher voltages, as this coil is energized all the time that charging is taking place, the 12 volt coil will fail. Sooo, I ordered one with a 14 volt coil. Will see how this goes.