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Old 02-20-2012, 12:20 PM   #15
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I am embarrased to say, but I accidently connected the leads on my batter backwards. I have no power when turning the ingnition. I am sure I have done some major damage. I have checked fuses and everything is ok. Does anyone have a suggestion on where to starte.

Thanks.
My wife's husband did the same thing about 9 years ago (just after buying a used RV . Anyway, there was some damage to a couple of boards/fuses but I don't recall the cost to repair. It was under $300 IIRC.

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Old 02-20-2012, 12:27 PM   #16
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The positive wire that attaches to your battery is sometimes connected to a fuse that is mounted against the wall, it looks like a little black box about 2 inches by 2 inches and has two screws comming out of it. Your battery wire will attach to one side and then the other side (screw) attaches to the wire going to the engine. Use a circuit tester to see if power is on both sides of the box, Or sometimes there are just inline fuses. Check those also. Even if you have done some major damage you should still be getting power to the fuse panel.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:32 PM   #17
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This is just a shot in the dark here but shouldn't the original poster check his battery first to make sure its ok and hasn't went belly up? Before he starts poking around all the wires and such??? Or am I up a creek without a paddle on this?
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:57 PM   #18
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Is having a chassis battery disconnect something new? On my unit the disconnect is between the coach battery and 12v items in the coach. On the other hand we do not know which battery the OP hooked up backwards.

If the OP is still reading these posts, ignore any that do not mention finding the fuses which have blown. And the coach and chassis batteries do not communicate until the operator activated the emergency start switch when one wants to start the engine when the chassis battery is dead.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:46 PM   #19
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Battery Connection

Thanks for all the help, it is greatly appreciated. I am amazed at how many responses I received. Had to work late so I didn't get much time to work on it.
Here is where I am on the situation. I had an extra battery and charged it last night and installed it today. Downloaded some schematics of the MH from the Winnebago site and took them with me. I do have a Fluke Voltmeter to test items. I will clarify my "No Power" statement. I do have coach power. I started the generator and everything that I tried in the coach worked. Including the furnace, ac, refrigerator, lights, fans and so on. The "no power" statement meant none of the instrument cluster, dash lights, dome light and ignition. When I turn the key absolutely nothing happens. I tried using the coach batteries to assist starting but still nothing happend. I could hear the solenoid making contact.

Located the chassis electrical box behind the kick on the second step in the coach. They did a good job hiding this one. Pulled the panel off and none of the breakers were tripped. Tested each one to make sure I had voltage and everything there was good. Also had power up to the solenoid and relay for the battery disconnect. Will continue from there tomorrow night.

I did talk to a guy at Winnebago and seemed to think it will be the starter solenoid that is damaged.

I could not find a fuse near or in the battery compartment. Have not been able to locate a fusable link yet.

My plan for tomorrow is to see if I have power to the central junction box and go from there.

One last thing, the steps did extend like usual when I hooked up the battery and the radio in the dash worked when I had the generator running and switched it to coach power.

If by chance I find the main power fuse is blown, is there precautions I should take with the altenator before I try to start the engine? If there are diodes damaged can it cause damage to other items?

Thanks, I appreciate all of the help.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:03 PM   #20
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You appear to have the chassis battery and the coach battery mixed up in your thinking. The generator and the coach battery under the step have nothing to do with your chassis battery. Which battery did you reverse? Do you know where the chassis battery is located? Non of the chassis battery systems have circuit breakers, only automotive blade type fuses.

Glad you have a meter. Identify you chassis battery and follow the power from there. You will find something blown and probably after you replace that item you will become a happy camper.
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Old 02-22-2012, 03:08 PM   #21
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By 2004 GM had already sold the Motorhome chassis to Workhorse. So, you most likely have a P32 Workhorse chassis not GM. You would have to register your chassis with the Workhorse site and obtain chassis wiring diagrams through them. Additionally, you might try posting this question in the IRV2 Workhorse forum (Workhorse Custom Chassis Motorhome Forum - iRV2 Forums). Someone there might have wiring information for the chassis. You do need to locate the chassis ID plate and record the information from it. You will need all this type of information to track down what may be several issues due to your unfortunant mistake. Winnebago will have very little chassis wiring information.

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Old 02-22-2012, 03:12 PM   #22
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Quote:
My wife's husband did the same thing about 9 years ago (just after buying a used RV .
Are we trying to hide something or is she married to 2 men?
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Old 02-23-2012, 12:56 AM   #23
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Are we trying to hide something or is she married to 2 men?
LOL good catch!!
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:45 AM   #24
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Are we trying to hide something or is she married to 2 men?
You do understand that 'my wife's husband" is ME? Good lord, must one issue instructions or Cliff's Notes on each post. I guess RVers drive so fast they have their funny bone blown off.

Sheesh.


Note: This post is an attempt to identify what I thought was rather obvious humor.
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:35 PM   #25
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LOL - Lets just say the reference did not get overlooked and was highlighted

It's all in fun

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Old 02-25-2012, 02:51 PM   #26
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I wonder if you got lucky like I did once after doing the same unfortunate thing.

It all traced back to the ground wire connection to the chassis. It was already partially corroded but was working before hand. After removing and replacing the obviously electrically arc damaged ground connector, everything worked. Even the alternator. Seems it's higher then normal resistance absorbed enough energy before open circuiting that it saved everything else.
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