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Old 03-20-2015, 07:08 PM   #15
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Did you mention which fridge you have? I accidentally left my shore power off for 48 hours this week and it pulled the batteries down to 11.4V, but both fridges maintained their temperatures. I have a MSW inverter that runs a Samsung fridge and a Dometic outside freezer. I think the 750W inverter is your problem and not the MSW. I'm guessing that it shuts down when the fridge tries to start.

One 5th wheel manufacturer tried to use 1000W inverters with their residential fridge option and ran into the same problem. They ended up replacing all the inverters on 100's of new rigs.
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Old 03-20-2015, 07:20 PM   #16
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With the givens you gave.. You are screwed, No can do

First... the fridge draws over six amps,,, IS that starting or running,,, 6 amps (You draw over) is 720 watts... I doubt your inverter can kick start that power sucker... And that is if it is STARTING,,,IF that sucker draws 6 amps running, starting may well be over 1500 watts.

Next.. Forge single 12 volt batteries less your name is Arnold the Governator Schwartz. I mean, theory has it I can lift and cary a 4D but I for sure do not want to try and slide it into the battery tray..

You need pairs of GC-2 (Each pair equals a 4 D but being only half of that battery (They are six volt so you wire them in pairs) They are far far easier to wrangle... By the way I still can not lift one to my battery tray without help.

And you need 2 pair minimum, I'd go for 4 pair

And a bigger True Sine Wave Inverter.
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:24 PM   #17
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I'll recap...

I only need to keep the fridge cool while off shore power when traveling. I have crap coach batteries. I have a 750 watt inverter. The fridge plate says it uses 6.5 amp A/C. It loses about 4-5 degrees per hour.

The questions (which were answered) were regarding the required inverter size and the size batteries needed to keep me it cold for 2-3 hours while off shore power. AND the process needed to determine what is required on the DC side so I can figure it out by myself next time.

Thanks to everyone for their answers.
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:44 PM   #18
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The other thing you need to understand is how much the refrigerator runs. The Samsung is somewhat unique in that it runs continuously with a variable displacement compressor at around 100 W from what I understand. If you are running one of them and looking at 6.5 A a good part of the load is heaters for the various defrost and ice making activities. They do not run much. If you are running something else then you need to know what the on/off cycle it. A kill o watt meter will let you figure that out off battery then you can sort out a system.

If you have the Samsung it does not care about the power being sine or modified sine. If you have something with a regular motor it may care. Heaters do not care, motors due but motors running at different frequencies like the Samsung do not as they first convert to DC. Put the brand and model up if you do not know what is going on.
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:20 AM   #19
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The other thing you need to understand is how much the refrigerator runs. The Samsung is somewhat unique in that it runs continuously with a variable displacement compressor at around 100 W from what I understand.
So people do not get confused make sure you differentiate the model differences of Samsung fridges. The one you speak of in your post is their newest RF-18 with Digital Inverter Compressor.

The older version model RF-197 has a normal compressor which only runs when needed.

The differences is why the RF-18 has a higher energy consumption rating than its predecessor the RF-197.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 03-21-2015, 09:54 AM   #20
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And you need 2 pair minimum, I'd go for 4 pair
8 - 6v batteries to run a 750 watt fridge for 2 hours?
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:24 PM   #21
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Another option is to fire up your genny once in awhile and let it bring the temp down.

Set it as cold as it goes and fire it up and let it go for 20 to 30 minutes minimum.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:31 AM   #22
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So people do not get confused make sure you differentiate the model differences of Samsung fridges. The one you speak of in your post is their newest RF-18 with Digital Inverter Compressor.

The older version model RF-197 has a normal compressor which only runs when needed.

The differences is why the RF-18 has a higher energy consumption rating than its predecessor the RF-197.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
It was researching the RF-197 that led me to Samsung using that technology. It uses the constant run variable compressor motor. I'm not sure what the RF-18 uses. FWIW I had seen crankless compressors before but not in refrigerators. I would assume that both have a variable load because defrost cycles and ice makers both run intermittent heaters as part of their cycle.
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:21 AM   #23
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Sorry, I don't mean any disrespect, BUT I think you had better sharpen your pencil a little when doing your research.

BTW, do you OWN a Samsung RF-197 fridge or a Samsung RF-18 fridge?

I own the RF-197 and I am VERY familiar with its operation and parts. I also have many Monaco owner friends who have either the Samsung RF-197 or the RF-18 installed in their rigs so many of us know exactly how each one works and what parts they have.

Samsung RF-197 has the older technology type compressor.

Samsung RF-18 has the new technology DIC compressor.

If you have a web site that is a reputable source which states the fact about a Samsung RF-197 having a DIC compressor, please reference it in a post so I can follow-up with them to see if they really know what they are talking about.

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Old 03-23-2015, 07:45 AM   #24
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I have a RF18 and love it. It is the quietest refrigerator I have ever been around. It seems to be very happy running on the MSW inverter. I accidentally ran the fridge and the Domestic outdoor freezer off the batteries only, for 48 hours straight. I forgot to plug it back into shore power after moving the rig over in the garage. I will soon be installing the ME-BMK battery monitor so I can see exactly how much energy the RF18 uses.
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:03 AM   #25
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I do not and would not own one. I think they are a stupid idea in a motor home. I think the same thing about total electric. ;-)

That said I got curious about them when I started reading about them here. I have no idea where I got the compressor information and little desire to dig again. OTOH if you want the service manual grab this link and download it:

http://www.rakerappliancerepair.com/...20BM%20Ref.pdf
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