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Kountry87Air · 09-27-2010, 12:02 PM

I hope this is the most appropriate Forum for this...
We just discovered an issue with the gasoline fill hose to the gas tank. it leaks. Inspection revealed the fill hose/tube (whats it called?) is fastened to the gas tank fill neck by a simple screw type hose clamp. That joint leaks a steady drip-drip-drip during fueling..not sure what happens when going down the road. The fill tube is made of a harder black material and appears pre-formed. It is perhaps 5 feet long and makes several bends...and is way up on top of most everything, including both rear axles/suspension and nearly impossible to touch let alone try to replace.

I can clearly see the leaking joint and my opinion is the tube material has shrunk a bit..curled a bit on the end edges. If I droped the tank I am not sure what that buys me..if I could somehow finagle the fill tube out that way or not...and if I could and somehow (lots of somehows here) get a replacement tube in place..then what?

Any insights on how to deal with this issue?
Thanks!

Luckiest Dreamer · 09-27-2010, 03:01 PM

I suggest that replacing the hose clamp with another and/or adding another, using the two clamp method my be your first step. In the marine industry double clamping on all thru hull and fuel lines is standard.

Gary RVRoamer · 09-27-2010, 03:06 PM

Try the two clamp method. If that doesn't do it, get areplacement for the flexible section of fuel hose that connects the tube to the tank. A NAPA or Carquest auto parts store should have the right stuff.

TXiceman · 09-27-2010, 04:30 PM

Try a double clamp and them replace it if that does not work. You do not want to take chances with gasoline.

Ken

rsflight · 09-28-2010, 05:18 AM

On our 1989 RV I found that the fill hose was cracked due to age allowing fuel to leak out during filling. I replaced the entire hose with a marine fuel/exhaust hose and used a form-a-gasket sealer (suitable for fuel) at each end. The old & new rubber hose has a coiled wire in the wall that does limit is flexibility. I did not find the need to use double clamps at the ends. In our case both ends of the hose were easy to reach. In your case consider adding the sealer and/or replacing only the end. Apply a metal coupler at a convenient location. The coupler could be an exhaust pipe double male coupler. If cutting is required be sure to prevent debris from getting into the gas tank.

Kountry87Air · 09-28-2010, 05:51 AM

Thanks for the suggestions. I am going to look for specialty tools..perhaps some form of pinchers/grabbers that can be used in very tight spaces. While I can see the joint, I am viewing between frame members via a space perhaps 1.5 in. wide and going round the obstructions would require I have a second elbow. I have seen surgical tools similar. Surely there are tools for engine repair which are similar?

wyocowboy · 09-29-2010, 11:05 AM

Only fill your tank 3/4 full till you fix the problem. Sure you thought of that.

TQ60 · 10-07-2010, 01:36 PM

Your MH os old, the line is likely toast.

This is common problem, our Jeep had same replaced the hose, our CC also needs same hose replaced.

Yo may also have a pinhole in your tank.

In your case you can contact Napa to see if the hose is available, it may be a standard hose.

If not napa can confirm the hose size needed or at least advise if they have universal or flexible replacement hose.

Get a service manual of the generic tyoe sold at auto supply for your chassis, if they do not have one then look for one on the econoline vans, they will have the instructions for dropping the tank as well as everything you need for the chassis, or most of it anyway.

You will need to drop your tank, get a floor jack, scrap plywood and some boxes or blocks.

Drive or pump out as much gas as you can, if you cannot pup it then you could carry a small can of gas, drive until it quits and refil some from the can to get home, your choice here, less fuel is less weight.

The plywood goes on the jack, the blocks go around your jack.

Speak to everyone in your home and advise them you will be working on the gas tank, NO SMOKING on the property and NO CORDS on the ground, you get the idea.

Following the instructions in the manual, disconnect everything you can reach, support the tank with the jack and loosen the straps SLOWLY.

Wiggle the tank as you go, it may be stuck to the cushins and you do not want it to suddenly come loose.

You can either only drop it enough to get to the clamp to change the hose or pull it completely, lower it to rest it on the blocks if the straps must be disconnected completey.

If you take the tank out then remove the sending unit and flush it out, check for soft spots and then repair if needed.

You can take a shop vac and pressurize the tank, with soapy water you can check for pin holes, since most MH are not daily drivers they have more of a chance for water condensation and rust, test it now while it is out.

Be sure to REPLACE ALL HOSES while you are there.

THere will be one or more small fuel lines, these supply the engine and possible releif back, a small crack allows air in on one and fuel ou on the other, they are cheap and easy NOW...

Attach new hose and replace everything.